Budtee

Top pull down mechanism

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The top pull down worked when I got the car last Sept. and this spring a couple times but now won't work.  (I did get the top pulled down manually.)  

 

When I push the switch down, the motor runs until I pull the wire off but nothing happens.  I have the shop manual but there doesn't seem to be much info on it and I guess I will have to take the mechanism apart. Is there a plastic gear in there that may have broken?  Although there are very few miles on it, I think it was stored in Florida in the summers possibly in very hot weather.  The plastic bushings in wiper arms had deteriorated and had to be replaced. 

 

 

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Best electrical info for how our top pull down works is found in the Cadillac service manual, we use the GM trunk pull down to work our top.

 

I think we all have the clear plastic motor mount housing and the plastic drive gear should be visible with the soft top lifted out of the well. You should be able to see if the motor runs and the gear doesn't move. If the paddle switch sticks and doesn't note end of travel, things will break and I've fixed over a hundred of the switches on GM trunks that stopped pulling down. Last year someone posted the GM part number for this gear, it's in the back pages and may even be titled pull down gear.

 

The TC has it's own, made to fit top pull down mechanism and the engine of this thing is a GM trunk pull down. This specific part was on all the monster sized GM luxury cars up through the mid 90's and they are dirt cheap at the U-pull yards. Grab the whole thing, wire harness and all for about $5. Not only will you get what you need, you will have what you need on hand for that day when you need a relay, or split the plastic housing. On this particular GM assembly busted plastic is easy to spot and the paddle switch is almost always the problem. The paddle switch can be cleaned by drilling a hole through the casing above the contact area, filling it with brake cleaner and shaking, or better still, blowing it out with compressed air before the brake cleaner has time to soften the plastic. If you do go the U-pull route grab the trunk latch too, the remote trunk release solenoid can be fitted to our latch to replace a part that can't be found and  the latch switch makes a great repair part for the trunk light.

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Is the "paddle switch" the switch next to the tonneau switch?

Yes

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Is the "paddle switch" the switch next to the tonneau switch?

The paddle switch is the switch assembly that snaps onto the side of the top pull down motor. That's not electronic geek speak and I assume the GM parts guys call it that because of the long and wide contact lever. That assembly reverses motor polarity to change direction of travel, fires the holding relays so you don't have to hold the top switch until the end of cycle and it senses end of travel to stop the drive.

 

The top release and pull down switch is a momentary single pole double throw switch next to the tonneau switch, that is electronic geek speak. It's also commonly referred to as a rocker switch, and more often than not it's referred by name for the function it controls.

Edited by Digger914 (see edit history)

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I have attached a picture of the pull down motor and mechanism with a red arrow pointing to the 'paddle'.

This is the first image I have tried to post since AACA changed their process, hope it works.

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Garnet ,   Attachment did not work.  Would appreciate it if you would try again.  Should be helpful.

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I have been trying to add a picture but cannot figure it out.  I click on image and it wants a 'URL'.  Can some body provide step by step instructions so that I can add a picture from my C drive on the PC.

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post-131690-0-34173500-1437675079_thumb.

Trying to attach the picture one more time.  The red arrow points to the 'paddle' on the pull down motor.

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I finally had time to look at my pull down motor.  It looks like you have to pull the entire unit including the support that fastens with a couple nuts on both ends. Is that correct? Doesn't seem like a big job. 

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I finally had time to look at my pull down motor.  It looks like you have to pull the entire unit including the support that fastens with a couple nuts on both ends. Is that correct? Doesn't seem like a big job. 

Five nuts, one plug,  two nuts  on either end and one in the middle. Not a big job

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OK  Multiple problems.  

I think I found them all. The plastic housing was cracked.

The gear was not turning and was probably damaged  due to the cracked housing or the "blue glue".  (The motor worked and would reverse if I flipped the switch on top of  the paddle switch.)  

The blue lubricant was more like blue glue.The bearing on the end of the gear was stuck to the gear and would not rotate until I soaked it with gasoline and now turns freely.

 

I ordered a new housing, $24.99 and a new gear $12.99 and I hope that does it.  Still have to test the paddle switch. I am not certain how to test it.  I am thinking that if I push the paddle switch arm towards the motor, while it is running, it should stop.  ??

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OK  Multiple problems.  

I think I found them all. The plastic housing was cracked.

The gear was not turning and was probably damaged  due to the cracked housing or the "blue glue".  (The motor worked and would reverse if I flipped the switch on top of  the paddle switch.)  

The blue lubricant was more like blue glue.The bearing on the end of the gear was stuck to the gear and would not rotate until I soaked it with gasoline and now turns freely.

 

I ordered a new housing, $24.99 and a new gear $12.99 and I hope that does it.  Still have to test the paddle switch. I am not certain how to test it.  I am thinking that if I push the paddle switch arm towards the motor, while it is running, it should stop.  ??

One switch of this assembly makes a fairly noticeable click when flipped, this should stop travel up or down.

 

With the big paddle pushed down and the end of travel in the down position the top motor should only continue to operate after the top switch is pushed to release the top and when the paddle switch is up and the end of travel switch is in the full up position the motor should only run in the pull down mode. This will require only a touch of the Top switch when everything is working as it should. If it fails to automatically travel in one direction or the other the top switch can be held to overcome the failed automatic operation.

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Does anyone know if I can buy a new clear plastic housing part for the top pull down motor?

All other parts in my top pull down motor are in working condition20191010_112503.thumb.jpg.005c3d44dfbbab714019129d01a22bb1.jpg.   

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22 hours ago, TC KER said:

Does anyone know if I can buy a new clear plastic housing part for the top pull down motor?

All other parts in my top pull down motor are in working condition20191010_112503.thumb.jpg.005c3d44dfbbab714019129d01a22bb1.jpg.   

Yes. Doorman sells them. You can get the clear housing that has the same brittleness issues as the OEM one, or they have a black one made of a different material that works better. It's a GM trunk latch motor.

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I ordered one from Auto Zone. I'll let you know how it turns out.  I shopped around a bit but not sure if I got the best price.  I'll write an update after I put it back together.

AutoZone.com        Item Description

QTY

Price Total

 

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sp.png

sp.png

6

sp.png

sp.png

Dorman Trunk Release Motor Housing 747-001

sp.png

Part Number: 747-001

Warranty: Limited Lifetime

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sp.png

1

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Unit Price:

$42.99

Core:

N/A

 

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$42.99

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Part Number 747-001 that I ordered from Auto Zone is the perfect replacement for the top pull down motor housing.  It does not come with the plastic gear (my cousin made me an aluminum gear about 20 years ago to replace it with so I didn't need one). The picture shows the clear plastic but mine arrived as the durable black plastic newer type one.  Now the pull down feels really strong and works great again.

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