Budtee Posted July 22, 2015 Posted July 22, 2015 The top pull down worked when I got the car last Sept. and this spring a couple times but now won't work. (I did get the top pulled down manually.) When I push the switch down, the motor runs until I pull the wire off but nothing happens. I have the shop manual but there doesn't seem to be much info on it and I guess I will have to take the mechanism apart. Is there a plastic gear in there that may have broken? Although there are very few miles on it, I think it was stored in Florida in the summers possibly in very hot weather. The plastic bushings in wiper arms had deteriorated and had to be replaced.
89TC-16V Posted July 22, 2015 Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) The grease dries out, I'm sure you can take it apart and service it, lube it Edited July 22, 2015 by 89TC-16V (see edit history) 1
Digger914 Posted July 22, 2015 Posted July 22, 2015 Best electrical info for how our top pull down works is found in the Cadillac service manual, we use the GM trunk pull down to work our top. I think we all have the clear plastic motor mount housing and the plastic drive gear should be visible with the soft top lifted out of the well. You should be able to see if the motor runs and the gear doesn't move. If the paddle switch sticks and doesn't note end of travel, things will break and I've fixed over a hundred of the switches on GM trunks that stopped pulling down. Last year someone posted the GM part number for this gear, it's in the back pages and may even be titled pull down gear. The TC has it's own, made to fit top pull down mechanism and the engine of this thing is a GM trunk pull down. This specific part was on all the monster sized GM luxury cars up through the mid 90's and they are dirt cheap at the U-pull yards. Grab the whole thing, wire harness and all for about $5. Not only will you get what you need, you will have what you need on hand for that day when you need a relay, or split the plastic housing. On this particular GM assembly busted plastic is easy to spot and the paddle switch is almost always the problem. The paddle switch can be cleaned by drilling a hole through the casing above the contact area, filling it with brake cleaner and shaking, or better still, blowing it out with compressed air before the brake cleaner has time to soften the plastic. If you do go the U-pull route grab the trunk latch too, the remote trunk release solenoid can be fitted to our latch to replace a part that can't be found and the latch switch makes a great repair part for the trunk light.
Budtee Posted July 22, 2015 Author Posted July 22, 2015 Is the "paddle switch" the switch next to the tonneau switch?
Hemi Dude Posted July 22, 2015 Posted July 22, 2015 Is the "paddle switch" the switch next to the tonneau switch?Yes
Digger914 Posted July 23, 2015 Posted July 23, 2015 (edited) Is the "paddle switch" the switch next to the tonneau switch?The paddle switch is the switch assembly that snaps onto the side of the top pull down motor. That's not electronic geek speak and I assume the GM parts guys call it that because of the long and wide contact lever. That assembly reverses motor polarity to change direction of travel, fires the holding relays so you don't have to hold the top switch until the end of cycle and it senses end of travel to stop the drive. The top release and pull down switch is a momentary single pole double throw switch next to the tonneau switch, that is electronic geek speak. It's also commonly referred to as a rocker switch, and more often than not it's referred by name for the function it controls. Edited July 23, 2015 by Digger914 (see edit history)
Garnet & Gold Posted July 23, 2015 Posted July 23, 2015 I have attached a picture of the pull down motor and mechanism with a red arrow pointing to the 'paddle'.This is the first image I have tried to post since AACA changed their process, hope it works.
Budtee Posted July 23, 2015 Author Posted July 23, 2015 Garnet , Attachment did not work. Would appreciate it if you would try again. Should be helpful.
Garnet & Gold Posted July 23, 2015 Posted July 23, 2015 I have been trying to add a picture but cannot figure it out. I click on image and it wants a 'URL'. Can some body provide step by step instructions so that I can add a picture from my C drive on the PC.
Garnet & Gold Posted July 23, 2015 Posted July 23, 2015 Trying to attach the picture one more time. The red arrow points to the 'paddle' on the pull down motor.
Budtee Posted July 23, 2015 Author Posted July 23, 2015 I finally had time to look at my pull down motor. It looks like you have to pull the entire unit including the support that fastens with a couple nuts on both ends. Is that correct? Doesn't seem like a big job.
Digger914 Posted July 23, 2015 Posted July 23, 2015 I finally had time to look at my pull down motor. It looks like you have to pull the entire unit including the support that fastens with a couple nuts on both ends. Is that correct? Doesn't seem like a big job. Five nuts, one plug, two nuts on either end and one in the middle. Not a big job
Budtee Posted July 27, 2015 Author Posted July 27, 2015 OK Multiple problems. I think I found them all. The plastic housing was cracked.The gear was not turning and was probably damaged due to the cracked housing or the "blue glue". (The motor worked and would reverse if I flipped the switch on top of the paddle switch.) The blue lubricant was more like blue glue.The bearing on the end of the gear was stuck to the gear and would not rotate until I soaked it with gasoline and now turns freely. I ordered a new housing, $24.99 and a new gear $12.99 and I hope that does it. Still have to test the paddle switch. I am not certain how to test it. I am thinking that if I push the paddle switch arm towards the motor, while it is running, it should stop. ??
Digger914 Posted July 27, 2015 Posted July 27, 2015 OK Multiple problems. I think I found them all. The plastic housing was cracked.The gear was not turning and was probably damaged due to the cracked housing or the "blue glue". (The motor worked and would reverse if I flipped the switch on top of the paddle switch.) The blue lubricant was more like blue glue.The bearing on the end of the gear was stuck to the gear and would not rotate until I soaked it with gasoline and now turns freely. I ordered a new housing, $24.99 and a new gear $12.99 and I hope that does it. Still have to test the paddle switch. I am not certain how to test it. I am thinking that if I push the paddle switch arm towards the motor, while it is running, it should stop. ??One switch of this assembly makes a fairly noticeable click when flipped, this should stop travel up or down. With the big paddle pushed down and the end of travel in the down position the top motor should only continue to operate after the top switch is pushed to release the top and when the paddle switch is up and the end of travel switch is in the full up position the motor should only run in the pull down mode. This will require only a touch of the Top switch when everything is working as it should. If it fails to automatically travel in one direction or the other the top switch can be held to overcome the failed automatic operation.
TC KER Posted October 10, 2019 Posted October 10, 2019 Does anyone know if I can buy a new clear plastic housing part for the top pull down motor? All other parts in my top pull down motor are in working condition.
Reaper1 Posted October 11, 2019 Posted October 11, 2019 22 hours ago, TC KER said: Does anyone know if I can buy a new clear plastic housing part for the top pull down motor? All other parts in my top pull down motor are in working condition. Yes. Doorman sells them. You can get the clear housing that has the same brittleness issues as the OEM one, or they have a black one made of a different material that works better. It's a GM trunk latch motor. 1
TC KER Posted October 12, 2019 Posted October 12, 2019 I ordered one from Auto Zone. I'll let you know how it turns out. I shopped around a bit but not sure if I got the best price. I'll write an update after I put it back together. AutoZone.com Item Description QTY Price Total Dorman Trunk Release Motor Housing 747-001 Part Number: 747-001 Warranty: Limited Lifetime 1 Unit Price: $42.99 Core: N/A $42.99
TC KER Posted October 17, 2019 Posted October 17, 2019 Part Number 747-001 that I ordered from Auto Zone is the perfect replacement for the top pull down motor housing. It does not come with the plastic gear (my cousin made me an aluminum gear about 20 years ago to replace it with so I didn't need one). The picture shows the clear plastic but mine arrived as the durable black plastic newer type one. Now the pull down feels really strong and works great again. 2
RT315 Posted April 25, 2023 Posted April 25, 2023 I know this thread has not been active for 4 years, but I'm hoping someone will read this who can help. My convertible top will not stay latched. The mechanism works in the sense that it pulls the tabs down, but they do not stay down. Is there somewhere I can buy a new mechanism? Or have mine rebuilt? Thanks.
jcw48 Posted May 16, 2023 Posted May 16, 2023 I am in the same situation as RT315 (posted April 25). Hopefully we will both get some advice/help. Thanks 1
jcw48 Posted July 5, 2023 Posted July 5, 2023 In review of various posting, there was reference to using a GM trunk pull down. I ordered one, had it installed and it works!
CWigleyjr Posted July 30, 2023 Posted July 30, 2023 Know this is older postings but where can I buy the gear for the top pull down unit. See info on the housing but not where to buy or buy the gear. My gear is stripped out. Love to get one made of aluminum. Thanks, Chet
Hemi Dude Posted July 31, 2023 Posted July 31, 2023 GM dealer, ask for trunk pull-down motor gear. I use to have the part number, but no more.
gymowner Posted September 5, 2023 Posted September 5, 2023 RT315... in my experience with this situation if you go to push the top metal pins into the holes, they just pop back up and not hold in place for the motor to pull it down, there needs to be an adjustment to the whole mechanism/bracket in the boot well. the bracket needs to be moved slightly "up". you can do this by moving the top out of your way as much as possible to get yourself in place in the top well and loosen the 5 nuts holding the whole bracket in place. 2 on the left, 2 on the right and one in the middle. dont forget the one in the middle of the bracket. you will see that the bracket was more than likely in the middle of the adjustment position. push the whole bracket up about 1/2" more than its original position. quickly tighten two nuts on one side before it slides back down. go to the other side and push the bracket up again about 1/2" or so then tighten those nuts. the bracket should not be able to adjust any higher than this. now tighten the middle nut. put the tonneau cover back in place and now try the convertible top again by placing the metal pics back into the holes. with the bracket being 1/2" higher or so the pins should now grab the mechanism claws and "click into place". if they hold in place, go into the car and try lowering the top with the top switch. this should solve your problem. hope this helps.
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