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Wtb; or Rent hub puller Dodge artillery wheels


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Hello ; I'm currently in beginning of resurrecting a Dodge /Graham 1931 uf10 pu . I have got fuel system  cleaned and  motor running . But am having trouble with brakes.  I can not get one of rear artillery wheel pulled ,other was pulled with Snap-on bearing puller but this one is bending the tool . I need a 2 3/8"x16 puller .  Would like to rent but may consider buying .

                                                   Thank You

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Thank You . Just got truck this Spring ,  I am in N.E. Pa.  I thought 2 7/16 was what I've been reading but threads on wheels measure 2.350" with ver.cal.. As I do not completely understand major and minor and pitch dia. of thread charts . Seem like 2 3/8 was closer . Hub cap threads are 2.275-80" range.

  If by say the word means you can have one for rent  PM or call 570-401 5868 . and the word is PLEASE .

 

  As anyone thoughts on brake linings ? Seems ads are bonded as I have on now most of which are loose or fell off , When original where rivet . Does this problem stem from the fact the pads are not being put on in proper length with long shoe all the way to top on front and a shorter shoe in back on low part of metal.

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That's it on page one Springfield size #60  2 3/8 x 16 tpi . I'm surprised all the other vehicles that use the same .

  On good news  I am in contact with George McMurtry  he said has one in stock to send out asap ,after verifying some measurements on length . Next is wheel cylinder to sleeve or use incorrect replacements ie step bores needing mounting plate hole opened 1/8" + . Honing and rebuild is out as already did one and it now .015 over on a .005 oyer max.

  Heard latter some where blasting rust out and filling with JB bond and honing to take care of pits . Have you heard  this?

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I've heard of JB Weld being used in all sorts of places where I would never use it........having worked with metal almost my whole life I'm kind of old fashioned that way.

On the other hand many MANY folks have successfully used JB in the very places I wouldn't so who am I to argue?.......  :wacko:

If it's only some pits that are in places where you can adequately clean for a good bond I don't doubt it might work.

As long as said pits CAN'T contribute to a catastrophic failure give it a shot.

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Why can't it be resleeved ? Having felt that sick feeling when the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor 3 times in my life at speed I can truthfully say that a brake system is the LAST place I would ever take a chance.........

 

Just my two cents

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Thanks for every ones help to date .I have George sending me out a puller Monday 2 3/8" it is. George is the Man when it comes to machining and pullers . Talked on phone with him . He was having concerns with the measurements I was giving him though the differentials seem close the numbers where always about .026" smaller then what he said 2 3/8" threads should be . After talking about the caliper's I was using he ask me to check the teeth on the rail as he suspected chips or dirt was causing a skip . BINGO the dial calipers had both ;,a quick measurement with a mic. gave the correct measurement +.026.And a good cleaning under magnification  fix the calipers.  Learning every day !

  Your right on the safety on brakes it Is bad enough it one chamber system can not risk blow out . So it is either new units or re-sleeve .  I also leaning toward riveted shoes as originals .

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HuZahh! The puller arrived today . Prior a had decided to attack it at the key way .I clean all grease away with carb cleaner ,then added penetrating fluid and PB baster to it . Figured it would travel the key way and pour it to available spaces in taper . Next added one puller very snuggly and lower wheel to ground 5 short wacks with 5lber . Heard tone change on 4 and it was loose , Could not believe how easy it worked .

   Thanks to  George and Mark S for your recommendation . Next cylinders and shoes .

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