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B body alignment


JACK M

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I am having trouble getting enough caster on a 66 Satellite.

I am wondering if one of you guys that know how to check parts could tell me if there is any difference between the upper control arms right and left.

I am in hopes that whoever assembled the front end has mixed them up and that they are different from each other.

I cant think of any other reason (or at least a simple reason) that I cannot get any caster to speak of.

Thanks in advance.

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I have always thought they were different. I have done a few and it seems to me they have a specific right and left side. Maybe a slightly different angle for each side.

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Thanks John,

 

That is what I am suspicious of. I hope you are correct.

 

I am hoping some one with parts books can confirm.

 

It was suggested that there are offset ball joints available for these but that doesn't excite me much.

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Jack,

           You are correct. They are different part numbers for left and right side. I checked two different sources and they both list a specific right and specific left upper control arm.

My Classic Industries catalog lists part numbers ME1617 Right (passenger) side and ME1618 Left (driver's) side.

Greg

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Thanks Greg,

This of coarse is good news in a bittersweet way.

It was suggested in another forum that there may be a structural problem with the chassis or inner fender supports, but while doing some other work on this car it will not surprise me that my problem is simply mixed up parts.

The car was rotisserie restored before I bought it and I have no history on the restoration, but I don't think it was a high end professional job. It looks pretty good but I have found a few things that are not how I would have done them. 

 

Do you suppose that there will be part numbers on these pieces that I could see before taking everything apart?

 

I have another project on the rack right now so it may be a few weeks before I can get back to this.

Thanks again,Jack,

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There's every possibilty that they have part numbers stamped into them. However, where that stamp might be I just don't know. Good luck with the fix. It isn't all that much work to pull those arms.

Greg

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, they are different, however they are not mixed up as I was hoping.

As you may be able to see the upper ball joint appears to be forward of the lower.

But now I notice there is an accommodation for the rubber bump stop making them side specific.

Dang, I really though I had it figured out.

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post-95665-0-85315000-1438297449_thumb.j

post-95665-0-44398100-1438297456_thumb.j

post-95665-0-56563300-1438297463_thumb.j

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I've never known of offset ball joints, just offset control arm bushings.

 

There are LOTS of cars which seem to have a "sagged" crossmember or whatever.  Usually things like big block Chevelles, or even '55 Chevies.  Haven't heard of Chrysler products having such an issue, though.

 

With age, the lower control arm pivot stub shaft bushings, as the other suspension bushings, can deteriorate and make the front end hard to align "to specs".  It takes a particular tool to remove and press-in the new rubber items, plus removing the torsion bars.

 

After I bought my '67 Newport 2-dr ht, I took it to a shop a friend ran to get an alignment, to make sure it was as it should be.  From what they found (and related adjustments), I was told about the lower control arm torsion bar mount bushings.  We got that done and the specs were again attainable.  Just another suspension bushing that deteriorates and "settles" with age, it seems.  AND one we don't normally consider!

 

There is a special tool to remove the torsion bars correctly and not damage/harm them.  I think some of the Mopar suspension vendors might have them?

 

ALSO, be sure to inspect the rear torsion bar mount seals and make sure there is suitable grease inside them.

 

The offset upper control arm bushings might be an alternative, though, that any shop can install,.  They might be the only type available, too.  Key thing is that they are "new" rubber,

 

Please advise of how things progress.

 

NTX5467

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Thanks NTX,

The upper bushings are new and I suspect that the lower would be as well since this car has had a frame off rotisserie restoration recently. When I say recently I mean that is has very few miles on it. I don't have any info on this restoration but doesn't appear to be all that professional. But it is all fresh.

I have had lots of experience with the torsion bars, I did not know that there is a special too for them, they will pull out when I take the pressure off at the lower control arm.

I have to admit that my experience is with the C-body cars, this is the first B-body I have owned, but they are quite similar.

You can see offset ball joints on Ebay, Summit has a set that fit Chrysler passenger cars but do not list the years or models and the tech line has been busy when I called.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191402359955?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited by JACK M (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

The offset upper control arm bushings did the trick.
I installed them with one offset all the way inward and the other all the way outward. This allowed me to get within specs.

Thanks for all the help.

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Thanks Dave,

I am needing to either build another building or sell a couple of cars.

I am trying to make a deal with the neighbor to buy his place that has more acreage than I do, so a building on my place is on hold until he decides on a price. They don't want it any more but they want WAY more than it is worth. There has been a for sale sign there for about a year and a few people have looked it over but they still want about double the appraisal. I may pay some extra so I can still be in my neighborhood of 40 years. But not double.

Now the daughter that rents my house on the other side wants to buy it, if that happens then there goes the warehouse too.

AND, any move is a hassle.....as you know.

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