Jump to content

1937-248 Overheating


Recommended Posts

Who was your radiator man?  In Chambersburg?  I am thinking of having my '38 Special's radiator rodded or recored, but may have the same problem already mentioned - not too many who do this anymore.  I am in Dayton, OH, so a stop in Chambersburg could be on my Hershey to-do list.  (If I cannot find someone locally.)

 

Thanks,

Jeff

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff:

 The fellow near me is at KEYSTONE RADIATOR.717-264-6911. He is in a one man shop. I know he got the cores for the 37 and my1925 from a place in Pittsburgh. At Hershey last fall I believe I talked to the people who were doing these cores from there. I misplaced their contact folder. There is also POWELL  Radiator Service in Wilmington Ohio 937-382-2096 . This information I had from a 2010 Hemmings publication. I hope this helps.

 Larry

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys, I have a 1939 Special radiator here in Kentucky if that helps anyone.  Message me if there is any interest.  It was last in a driving car in the summer of 2013.  As far as I know it works, but does show evidence of prior repairs.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Was your replacement core to the original specs, or a higher capacity alternative?  I found an outfit here in Dayton to do a re-core, and he said it would be same as original.  I later learned of other higher capacity alternatives (more tubes, more fins) that would still look reasonably stock, but this guy does not know of any sources.

 

Were you ever able to come up with the name of the core source in Pittsburgh?

 

I am still debating whether to pursue higher capacity options or go with a dead stock replacement.  It was ok in the day, but with today's traffic, more capability might be a good thing. 

 

One source (that my local shop has not used) is US Radiator - they have something called the Desert Cooler - not sure if it can be made in the size I need or not.

 

Any further advice on core selection would be very welcome!

 

Thanks,

Jeff

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am still debating whether to pursue higher capacity options or go with a dead stock replacement.  It was ok in the day, but with today's traffic, more capability might be a good thing. 

 

Any further advice on core selection would be very welcome!

Thanks,

Jeff

 

In today's environment I agree that you can not have too much cooling capacity.  IMHO

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Larry and all fellow sufferers, I had the same in my two 37s. I tried all the litany that has been described in this blog as well as in many others before. My conclusion is that all mentioned activities probably help a bit, but nothing can turn around the situation as effective as a new cored rad. Of course, if all the mud is still in the system, it won´t take long until the new rad is as clogged as the old one. Chemicals have all kinds of side effects on gaskets etc., so I am not sure if the potential risk is worth it.

When you get a new core for your rad, some companies can offer high performance cores that look basically like the old ones but are much more effective (e.g. 4 rows of tubes instead of 3 rows).

So my recomemndation is: 1. get the rad cored; 2. use the time when the rad is in treatment to open the freeze plugs (you might want to remove the manifold as well) and get all the sh..t out of the block that you get hold of. Just flushing isn´t enough. Use an old wire hanger to sratch the baked stuff and then flush the mess out. You will find most of it near the last two cylinders. Don´t worry about the freeze plug opposite to the fire wall, you´ll get by this area with a wire from the last side-plug; 3. Check or block the intermediate thermostat valve; 4. if your spark plugs show a light brown surface, don´t worry about carb adjustment or ignition timing. 

It´s a bigger and not cheap project, but hey, it´s a good feeling to start a spin and being sure that you´ll return on your own 4 wheels in good shape, ain´t it? With both my cars I can go now uphill 7-10% at 100 degrees outside without any boiling for miles.

Good luck!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bottom line... if the heat doesn't get out of the block into the water, all the front end work (radiator, fans & etc) is money down the drain!!

 

Remember, Buick built cars that did work many years ago. While traffic is different today, thermodynamics has not changed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am driving my car tomorrow from my mechanic in Berryville VA back here to Rockville. About 60 miles. One of the things he did was to open up the front freeze plug and make sure the front of the block is clear, I already did this on the rear. With temps over 90 here tomorrow it will be a good stress test and includes some mountain climbing.

 

Cheers, Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

As I promised the update of the cooling system situation.

So far since we left Chambersburg on the 6th of Sept. we have driven the 37 895 miles to and around Nashville on tour. Except when we were driving on a continuous pull up hill of waiting in the endless maze of "Miracle Mile" stoplights around here, the temperature rarely went above 180. Each day until today, the10th, it has been in the middle 90s. Normal highway driving at the average of 55mph the temp gage has stayed at 160 degrees. We are quite pleased!

 Tomorrow we start back to PA.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It sounds to me like your 37 perfect. I wish mine was as good. Mine hates the lights here in Vegas, if I'm moving its fine but it creeps up at every light. So far it stays under 185 at the lights but it always seems like its going to get hotter. The outside air temps are ninety five to a hundred or maybe a tad higher. If we have 80 degree air than it stays under 180 easily.

Link to post
Share on other sites

post-121302-0-81200400-1442170067_thumb.post-121302-0-88592100-1442170090_thumb.post-121302-0-11916200-1442170129_thumb.We got home at a quarter to 7 last evening. We stayed over night at the same motel in Bristol VA. We left there at 8:20 AM. So over 10 hours with stops. Probably 7 1/2 hours total actual on the road driving time.Total mileage since last Sunday morning when we left Chambersburg is 1,585 miles. I kept the speed between 55 and 60 mph on  routes 81 and 40 thru VA and TN. We would get on to routes 11 and 70 to cut the boredom of the interstates.  Except for the first 2 days when the temps were in the upper 90s, the water temp stayed at 160 degrees. Other than a few hard pull, uphill vapor locking episodes (when we had to use some ethanol gas) she ran great! 100% gas was very available once we were in VA and TN.
 We were the only ones on tour who had no problems! John Young from Louisiana trailered up a beautiful green 1938-41. Low mileage, pristine interior, flawless paint etc. On the first day of the tour his brakes locked up which caused the engine to overheat ( plugged return hole). This caused the same problem we encountered trying to go to Springfield. Sludge from the overheated engine plugged up the radiator. The first photo is of the on the road repair seminar with 38-41 stuck in the middle of the street. The tour leader Ralph Artall is trying to remove the master cylinder cap to clean out the return hole.  Ralph had the starter vacuum switch go out on his 1938-46 Coupe. Then one of the modern cars on tour with us a 2002 Park Avenue had a plastic fuel line split. The local Buick dealer quoted him $1,800 to repair and a five day wait for parts.  A local shop got him going again for less than $100 and now they are back home in Indiana.
This is the third "tour" we have been on. The second with the 37. We did have a great time. On the last night we had a banquet and all dressed in period 1930s costume. Right up my alley. But now Joan wants vintage jewelry.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Just an update on the 1937. After putting on over 1,600 miles this summer, I am doing the seasonal cooling system flush/winter prep and have back flushed the radiator and block. I still had some residue of the "EVAPORUST" in the system (hopefully still doing its job) and what drained out was still rusty looking. More importantly the "Gano" filter caught quite a bit of sludge/rust particles. I must keep that newly re-cored radiator happy.

 

 

post-121302-0-18438300-1446919243_thumb.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...