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Reconditioning of the 30 DA

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I am using the word "Reconditioning" instead of restore,

I bought this 30 DA from a local family after the father passed away. I want to keep it away from the hotroder's.

When I got it home and running, I took it for a ride, I was very disappointed with the steering and condition of the car, paint was decent and interior,

Decided to disassemble and investigate what was worn, I found more than I bargain for, the body had never been removed from chassis.

The journey began ,I decided to replace the bad worn out bearings and seals and touch up existing paint and trim, Thus Recondition,

Thanks to the assist Bob Scanfini , for supplying a rolling chassis, My Buddy Chuck Menio for hauling from California , Doug Walters for rubber, and advise, Harry for technical, Tom Early for Gaskets,

And a few other people

The 30 is getting near completion after a year of off and on.









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Nice looking car!

Have you still got the roof out? I would really like to know how much the cross bows actually "bow", in other words, how much higher they are in the centre of the car. I need to rebuild mine and it is too far gone to work this out. 

Thanks, John

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John, here is a link to drawings I made for my roof insert....it shows the heights at the center of the bows vs. the ends.....also, if you follow Pinterest at all I've got a board there for my 29 DA to keep track of articles, photos and suppliers.   forums.aaca.org/topic/135584-1929-da-6-4-dr-sedan-roof-framing/

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Thanks guys for the comments , paint may have a few scratches and runs , but the cari is mechanically sound, runs like a clock , had it once on the road, to test steering, I was sitting on a milk crate, drove straight, steering tight, you guys a right in your other forums about steering , it will squeak if you try to rotate static, cars has to be moving .

Here are a few pictures of roof installation , still have interior down if you need more pictures and measurements.




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  • 3 weeks later...

Well today was a great day, I got most of the interior in, including seats, removed the milk grate I was sitting on,

Took DA for a 10 mile run to top tank off with gas, The Car worked like it was suppose to, at 40 it drives straight and doesn't drift between lanes, even on the rough Louisiana country roads, fuel Gage's works,speedometer works, fuel vacuum tank, works, No leaks, runs about 190 F, shifts with no grinding ,

Still have a few days work finishing up drivers door , I rushed on hydraulic lift, finish up trim, then I can take it out for a longer run and enjoy the ride.

The 30 rides a lot better then 35 KC, just not as fast, the 30 has a higher gear ratio.


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Guest DodgeKCL

Just a bit of information: The chicken wire in the roof was the antenna for the radio. When I found my '33 Plymouth I was told to look in the right hand A post up under the dash. Sure enough the original factory car radio antenna lead was still there,still waiting for some one to hook it up to a radio. I put in a 6 volt '30s era radio and it worked! The lead was folded up on it's self and taped with electrical tape. This radio antenna hook up was common practice with all Chrysler vehicles until the advent of the all metal roof. Then they went to the vertical modern type mounted on the cowl on two posts.   

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Well a Great day on the Bayou!

The 30 DA reconditioning is complete.

Well as complete as it will be, We are never finish with our cars and trucks,

Finish putting the interior back in, then took it on a 30 mile trip.

The car did great, drives 40 MPH at 2000 RPM, I got it up to 50 for a little stretch, turning 2500

The only problem was radiator would over pressure radiator cap when I decelerated,

Swap caps from 35 KC ,which locks tighter, cured problem, It ran about 190 during trip.



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Xclnt! Good to see another nice vintage Dodge Brothers back on the tarmac.


Might that burp from the radiator be due to an air lock in the cooling, perhaps just under the thermostat? My DC did that at the end of a 200 mile drive over hill country. The thermostat didn't have a bleed hole.


What should the radiator cap have as a "washer"? I have tried cork and 1.6mm (16 ga, 1/16") gasket paper, neither was particularly successful. What about Viton?

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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Jesse, do you have a gasket on the radiator cap? I wasted a bunch of time chasing a problem that didn't exist because I didn't know it needed one. Also, you MAY have the radiator too full, should only be covering the core. And lots of guys put a roofing nail in their overflow pipe to keep the splash out, will still work when it really overheats. 

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The system had been run and refilled, not over full because like Doug mention , they will throw out excess,

The radiator had been flush prior to being installed.

I used 3/16 rubber, and a xtra washer under spring to increase tension,

This seem to do the trick,

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