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lincolnmatthews

Jerry Jobe Distributor Repair?? Anybody heard of him?

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Just wondering just got off the phone with Skip the coil repair guy in FL. I still have a "dead bank" after installing his coil & two reblt terminal plates from Earle Brown. I think its my distributor, was set up over 10 yrs ago by George Trickett? but only put it in about 4 yrs ago. (probably has less than 500 miles on it). I shouldn't let this stuff sit and not use it!

 Skip mentioned a Jerry Jobe out of OR he thought, he said Google it. I found where a Jobe sold out an electronic distributor to some out fit. Anybody know of him? I want to send off my distributor for repair.

I mentioned old Jake Flemming to Skip & he rattled off something about him, (must have caught Skip having a bad day, I don't know).

 Where do you guys send out your dist for set up with happy results??

 

Thanks

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

JAKE FLEMMING IN TEXAS IS THE V-12 GURU RETIRED MAN THAT BUILT A PRECISE 

ELECTRONIC DEVISE TO SET UP LZ DIST.. HE WORKS CHEAP AND PROFESSIONAL..AND HE IS A 

BEAUTIFUL HUMAN BEING, ANXIOUS TO HELP ANY V-12'ERS.

SKIP HANEY IS A COIL RE-BUILDER GOOGLE HIM HE IS LEGENDARY AND HONORABLE

WATERPUMPS REBUILT  / RE-ENGINEERED  TO PERFORM BETTER THAN NEW..

--HE STANDS BEHIND HIS PRODUCTS  

 

(JAKE SERVICES ORIGINAL COILS, SKIP PUTS IN NEW UNITS IN OUR OLD CASE)

THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN DISCUSSED NUMEROUS TIMES..CHECK GOOGLE..IT SEARCHES THESE FORUMS..)

Edited by J BOOTH (see edit history)
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Mssr. Bwatoe, that is a fantastic response!! The man is asking for help and you come up with something like this. What an idiotic response. Mr.

Moderator, go ahead and delete this posting and do it because I told the truth.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Just trying to help so please don't include me in whatever is going on above.

Looked in the LZOC classifieds. You might try Gerry Richman @ 774-218-1200 or 508-644-5825. His ad said he can do it. Am unsure what "setting up" means but you could ask Mr. Richmond.

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Wow everybody is a little sensitive here. I understood his Mr B's responce, even if it was just one word, ( a little short I thought). But "Jake" was to the point I guess. I don't always express myself just right on these forum's but when I say "set up" for a distributor I do mean of course new points, setting the dwell & advance on the proper Ford (Lincoln) dist machine. With everybody getting older (including myself)  its getting harder to find people who have the equipment & the knowledge to keep these rigs running. Thanks Mr Beltfed I may try Gerry R, thanks you guys

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I have no idea of how experienced you are at this sort of thing but with a little trouble shooting you could zero in on your problem plus "set up" (your words) everything without having someone else do it for you. There is an article in a past issue of LZOC that describes how to set the points and timing on your distributer on YOUR bench. Let me know if you want it.

Many of us here want to fix things ourselves, like 19tom40 and many others, rather than having someone else do it for them. Others just want to write a check, that's OK too. Maybe I'm just cheap.

Let us know where you want to go with your great piece of Americian Automotive History. Post it here and we'll jump on it "like a chicken on a Junebug". Sorry guys, I'm from the south and Momma use to say that.

Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)

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Go easy on Jeff. He communicates differently than some of us but is a great asset to the Forum.

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Jeff is the best thing going on this forum. His post alone "Post your pictures or look at mine" has generated over 9,500 views.

He participates!  He is knowlegable, and I look forward to what he has to post.

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I think "Jake" answer was referring to Jake Fleming in TX Phone 214-333-3197. He restores the coils and distributors.

 

A phone call to him about your problem will help you out a lot. Great man.

 

You can send your coil and distributor to him for repair, but it is probably a simple fix that you can do with the article from Beltfed. I would read the article before you call Jake or send your coil and distributor to him.

 

You said that you have driven the car 500 miles with the reconditioned distributor, did it run on one bank for the 500 miles or is this a recent problem?

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I have had great results from Jake Fleming.  He is also available for the occasional phone call with a question.  b6vt

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I've owned the car for for over 25 yrs, & do all my own work on her. I haven't driven her alot over the yrs (hope to change that soon). Last summer  she cut out & was missing quite bad, I basically just didn't have the time to deal with it. It ran great for a very short time several wks ago, then tried to start it up last wk & couldn't get her going, (it has usually always started pretty easy. So thats when I decided to put in the term plates, condencers from E. Brown. I also put on the rblt coil as mentioned earlier.  It still wouldn't start had to choke it alot then it started, not real smooth but ran (thought maybe I got a wire switched when I did the plates) anyway took it for a drive seemed to run ok for about 3 miles then it crapped out on the way home. Turns out the drivers side is dead. So at this point I think I have a bad dist. (points stuck open or?) Like I mentioned theres very little time on the dist. I did notice that the points didn't quite right when I had the coil off, looked like a gap between the flat spot on the lobe & the fiber arm of the points. Which I thing would either be points stuck open or the fiber arm worn away already  & not opening the pts.

Anyway thanks for the offers & ideas! I thought that it was required for the distributors to be set on the old Rotunda machines to accurately set the timing, dwell, advance etc. I knew that you could of course put in your own points & gap them but it would never be quite right. Apparently I am wrong on this.

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First and easiest. Replace the condenser on the dead side. I understand that these condensers have a bad habit of early failure. The condensers are electrolytic types and heat is not their friend. Many travel with spares in their tool pouch.

On another note. The description of the procedure of setting the points and such on your bench (you need an ohmmeter) according to the author is closer to being correct than using a machine to do it for you. I'll admit, you have to get your brain involved as the firing sequence is rather strange (as least to me).

Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)

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The condensers that are available today are of a very poor quality and that could very well be your problem.

 

If you have a voltmeter, it is easy to check if the points and coil on the dead side are working. Just connect the voltmeter between the voltage connection for the dead side and turn on the ignition. You should read 6 volts or more with the points open and around 4 volts with the points closed.

 

A continuity checker or an ohm meter will let you know if the points are dirty or not closing properly. Remove the coil. Connect one lead of the Ohm meter to ground and the other to the coil contact for the dead side points. The points should open and close as the engine is turned over and you should see the meter needle move as they open and close.

 

The NAPA FA49 is used on the 37-41 V8's and some of them will read as high as .32ufd. This condenser is easy to modify for the V12 distributor.

 

The NAPA FA54 is used on the 6 cylinder engines and may be harder to modify for the V12 distributor.

 

In the V-8 world we have had much better luck with NAPA condensers than the reproductions made overseas.

 

Setting the timing on the direct camshaft driven 6, V-8 and V-12 distributors should be done on a distributor machine. You can set the points with an ohm meter and the car will run pretty good, but if the dwell is off you will not get a strong spark at the right time. You said that yours was set up a few years ago and the car ran fine. Before I messed with replacing points again, I would make sure that the points are the problem and that they need more than a cleaning. 

Edited by 19tom40 (see edit history)

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I should also add, that when I put on the rblt terminal plates I also installed two original condensers that I also got from Earl Brown. I'm sure that they were OK. Obviously I have some troubleshooting ahead of me here! Thanks again. (Its worth all the Hassel's of owning her,what an awesome car)!

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Owning and driving a Lincoln has always been a great experience.

 

With the quality of parts available today, it is always better to trouble shoot the problem and only replace parts that your diagnosis said were defective.

 

Most of the condenser failures are weak or open causing a weak spark. A shorted condenser would cause a no spark condition. A shorted condenser can be found with an ohm meter.

 

You replaced the terminal plates, so I would remove the coil and examine the rotor to terminal clearance on the dead side. It should around .010".

Edited by 19tom40 (see edit history)
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I had Skip redo one of my coils, he completely guts and cleans out the housing, installs new coils...I think they're Ford.....and reseals it.  The coil puts out a higher voltage to fire the plugs making the engine run better.  Jake does a great job on rebuilding and calibrating the distributors.  Jake does repair coils, but he doesn't replace the windings internally.  His calibrations are "right on".  Regardless of having a great coil and calibrated distributor, there are other elements in the ignition system you have to pay attention to when working on your V12.  There are correct voltages at the coil that must be maintained, proper plug wiring and connections if you want it to work properly.  I have a KR Wilson distributor tool, but sometimes it doesn't calibrate exactly, who knows.  Jake uses an oscilloscope in his setup and it's more accurate.  So before you condemn anything on the V12 or supporters, you need to verify all components associated with the ignition.  It's not hard, those V12s are simple engines.  

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I've used Tony Neisz, "Flathead Doctor", Flatheads Forever, N Russell St. in Portland, OR.  Really knows Lincoln distributors, and even makes electronic ignition conversions.  www.philbingroup.com.

Abe

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I got mine from Earl Brown exchange and it works well. Lee

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I just got my dist back from Gerry Richman, he updated the advance mech to the newer style (after 41) I think he said. Its kinda pricey now days to own these cars, but I'm sure it will work a heck of a lot better than before and will be well worth the price paid.

Gerry's a nice guy & were lucky (fortunate) to have these guys still around that can do these things. He mentioned that he does all the terminal plate reconditioning, a beautiful job.

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im mike n dont know what im talking about.shortly after i got my 47 lz it was only running on 6 cylinders,so i payed some one (who seen me coming)to fix it .rebuilt starter,clean ground n terminals ect ect 400 + dollars but what i was going to say is ...our V12  is two 6 cylinder engines so why cant you use two napa 6 cyl condensers in our  V12 ?

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From what I could read from 47clubcoupe, he was asking if two 6 volt condenser (capacitors) would work and 38 Shorttop answered. As those of us who blew fuses for a living know, a condenser is measured in Farads or umfd's if you will. The voltage handling part of it is not as important as it's capacitance value, well at least from 6 to 12 volts. If one was to buy a condensor with the wrong value then the points will suffer. I can't remember which, but under or over values will cause a pit to appear on either the ground or 'hot' side of the points. So just remember to get the correct umfd condensor.

Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)

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I hesitate to chime in on this forum, but cant help myself.. The above poster wants to use some generic condensers for his 6vlt L-Z. No big deal

The voltage is not even labled on these automotive applications as it would be for communication devices and such where capacitor/condenser (old term) is hyper critical...The lz condensers are .5 or so pf...or mikes or such cap value..the correct ones are available and you can get em..but 

as previousy mentioned..these are installed to absorb the spark created by completing the circut as done in ign points so that the points last....and not pit themselves into failure. We see more often the condesers short and kill 6 cylinders..taking the coil power to ground..

--In the electronics world, we absolutely do not use old stock condensers..they age and become shelf worn...Old vacuum tube electronics often spring to life with a simple "recap" new manufacturing is much better ...

H- 12300 Condenser - (1936-48 Lincoln V12) $16.00

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_catalogrequest.htm

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/vanpeltcatalog2015.pdf

 

FRESH NEW AND CHEAP!!  

Edited by J BOOTH (see edit history)

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