Fitting Silent Blocks into Spring Eye

[Gunsmoke]

I am in the process of replacing the silent blocks for the front springs for my '31 CD8. The original blocks were 1&7/16" diameter and are difficult to find, so I am going with 1&1/2" blocks which are readily available. They require the eye to be enlarged slightly. I notice the eyes have a slight "hook" on end of steel curl, appears to serve to prevent block from rotating in the eye? In any event. did the silent block originally have a corresponding small depression in the outer shell to accomodate this " hook"? I plan to press the new blocks in using a bench vice and expanding the eye just enough to allow block to be pressed in. I am contemplating putting a depression in the new block before pressing in place. Any suggestions regarding the best method of expanding of the eye, and whether original blocks had a depression?  

[Taylormade]

My blocks did not have any depression, the old ones or the new ones.  My springs eyes were a tight circle with no gap between the end of the eye and the spring.  I had a spring shop install my blocks so I don't know how they did it.  I'm not sure if that "hook" is just an illusion because the circumference of the eye is not tight or if it is there for a purpose.  Your blocks appear to be quite a bit larger than those on my 32 Dodge.

 

[Gunsmoke]

Thanks TM, took the springs to the local spring shop this afternoon, Paul pressed the1.5" dia blocks in for me, took him all of about 2 minutes, no charge! He used a tapered expander first, pushed into one end about 1/4", then pressed the blocks in from other end, using their heavy duty press. Came out perfect, with a slight gap at end of curl. I checked Hollander's Interchange "bible", and it lists '32 Dodge and '31 Chrysler silent blocks as having 1&7/16" diameter. Paul suggested the "hook" on mine may be from someone previously prying on them, had never seen eyes with a hook before.

 

Getting proper 5/8" grade 8 fine thread bolts was next problem. Local suppliers have 5/8"x4" (for front eyes) and 5/8"x4.5" (for shackled ends), but in both cases the smooth barrell was not long enough to go all the way through the front spring horn, or in case of rear, all the way through shackles both sides. Original bolts only have about 1" of fine thread at end. So to get longer smooth barrells, I bought 5" and 5.5" bolts and will cut off excess thread. Looks like barrell on your bolts may be shorter than ideal, and yours look like standard thread, suggesting you may want to add a lock washer.

[Taylormade]

Thanks, good advice on the bolts.