keiser31 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 As stated in the title....wanting to know what others recommend for the crankcase oil in a babbit bearing engine. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) I use Shell Rotella 15-40, meant for diesels.Throw a can of STP in just to make me feel better. This is on an unmolested '40 Buick (320cid strt 8), with 78K on the clock. Mike in Colorado Edited June 10, 2015 by FLYER15015 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 I use Shell Rotella 15-40, meant for diesels.Throw a can of STP in just to make me feel better. This is on an unmolested '40 Buick (320cid strt 8), with 78K on the clock. Mike in ColoradoDoes it have babbit bearings in 1940? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 I use Valvoline 20W50 in my all babbit bearing '31 Cadillac V8 with a can of STP. Why you ask?? Well, ..... I use Valvoline 20W50 and a can of STP in everything. Why?? I forget....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Rotella and thick oils are not recommended.Synthetic is probably best, unless you have a bunch of old seals in your engine. Otherwise, use a 10w30-40, add about 4oz of zinc, and a little Marvel Mystery oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 I run Delo 15W-40in everything that I own, from my Dodge Cummins to my portable generator. Never an oil related issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 Thanks folks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) Does it have babbit bearings in 1940?Yes, Buick used poured Babbit bearing in their straight eight cylinder engines until around 1951 or 1952. I just learned last week that the 15W-40 Rotella which I've also been using has reduced the amount of ZINC, and was advised during a seminar by an engine builder a the Independence, MO AACA Central Meet, that it is preferable to add a can of ZINC ADDITIVE during each oil change in a "Flat Tappet" engine for better lubrication. It can't hurt, considering the value of our cars, but I'm others will weigh-in on this topic. Another option might be a good synthetic such as Am-zoil.\ I add Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil and the gas. Edited June 10, 2015 by Marty Roth (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Rotella and thick oils are not recommended.Synthetic is probably best, unless you have a bunch of old seals in your engine. Otherwise, use a 10w30-40, add about 4oz of zinc, and a little Marvel Mystery oil. I'm pleased you added the caveat about seals. Although my results are certainly unscientific, I made the mistake of using synthetic in another '30's antique car, and was rewarded with noticeably increased oil leakage from the rear main seal. Coincidence? Don't think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danleblanc Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 For a zinc additive in my 61 Fleetwood, I like to add a shot of Cam Shield with every oil change. Seems to be one of the best additives out there. A fellow Cadillac owner put me onto it and I stocked up at Hershey last fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) For those worried about zinc... it was only added to oil in the early fifties after a rash of cam and lifter wear problems in the new OHV V8s. When the hot V8s with pushrods became a thing of the past, they took it out. If I had an OHV engine with flat tappets from the fifties thru the nineties, I would be concerned especially if it was a high performance model with big valves and heavy valve springs. An economy model OHV six, pre 1950 OHV, flathead, roller lifter or OHC motor, probably has nothing to worry about. Edited June 10, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 I'm pleased you added the caveat about seals. Although my results are certainly unscientific, I made the mistake of using synthetic in another '30's antique car, and was rewarded with noticeably increased oil leakage from the rear main seal. Coincidence? Don't think so.Yep. That happened to me, too. What happens is that the synthetic cleans the old seals to the point where they will leak. I meant to say add 4oz of zinc, as Marty said, not lead. I've edited my post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capngrog Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Where does one acquire this recommended zinc additive, and what is/are the brand name(s)? Well oiled,Grog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Google zinc additive zddp. Lots of different name brands offering it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) Keiser I am surprised to see you ask this, we have gotten this question from the green crowd about a million times. For the record all cars have babbitt bearings, some have it on steel shell bearings, others on poured babbitt bearings but they are all babbitt. There are special oils made by companies like Penrite for vintage motors, is that what you were thinking of? Zinc was added in the fifties to protect the flat tappet cams and lifters of OHV V8s. Your engine should have no need for it. Edited June 10, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Keiser I am surprised to see you ask this, we have gotten this question from the green crowd about a million times. For the record all cars have babbitt bearings, some have it on steel shell bearings, others on poured babbitt bearings but they are all babbitt. There are special oils made by companies like Penrite for vintage motors, is that what you were thinking of? Zinc was added in the fifties to protect the flat tappet cams and lifters of OHV V8s. Your engine should have no need for it.I realize that this has been brought up before. I just wanted to see if anyone had any particular recommendations for this engine.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Street Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 I use cam shield as a zinc additiveRobert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Keizer 31 , what an honor to be able to present an offering to your prolific self. The bottom line here is that there are several factors that mitigate against a one size fits all solution. Please read my grovellings in trivial minutiae posted under " Cleaning/flush of a 1930 Nash engine" under "Technical" . Not all engines would be candidates for such procedures. What is the mileage ? Where within spec range do your clearances lie ? Do you know the oil history of your engine ? If so for how long ? What type of filtration do you have ? Do you want to upgrade your filtration capabilities? Would such an upgrade be within budget ? But you have dropped your pan and cleaned it at least once. How many miles ago ? Due again ? And did you examine and plastigage a couple rod bearings and a main ? If at all questionable , did you check the rest ? Now , I have successfully converted 500 cu. in. Cadillacs , and 460 fords to multi grade synthetic with over 100,000 miles on them . Synthetic oil is the most detergent oil. So detergent that it can ultimately break down carbon seals at the rings of a high mileage tired old mill. As far as other seals , if naught holds your engine together but sludge and mung , probably drive them lightly and don't awaken whatever dogs. Ideally you will be able to use multi grade synthetic successfully in your pre-war cars. Synthetic may be be thought of as the first , lower number straight grade oil , with viscosity index ( V.I ) improvers added. STP is a V.I. improver. Maybe it changes a 20w/50 to a 25w/70 for example , depending on amount used. Keizer 31 , I hope this humble offering is of some use to you. It is merely an incomplete guideline. From the well deserved accolades other grateful readers sent you after you reached 20,000 accurate postings , I know I am but one of many who enjoy and await your every word. TO YOU AND ALL FOLK WHO USE OIL , PLEASE FIND AND READ RICHARD WIDMAN'S DEFINITIVE WORK ON OIL SELECTION. There are links to it under various headings. I came across it in the "Our Restorations" section. He is a real genius of a petroleum rep. who has distilled many tech articles into a 33 page must read work. N.B. : my investigations into proper filter elements advances. I have already ordered a 25 micron screen for my System 1 K&N. Other info hopefully by weekend. The '24 Cadillac did start smoothly today , but there is an oil pressure issue. The '27 Cadillac is advancing towards a hoped for debut at the Portland CCCA Grand Classic next month. Old man Carl goes to bed now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 The engine in question has just been rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrspeedyt Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 in my old cars i mix four quarts of 'modern' oil to one quart of older oil. when the old oil is completely gone I guess I'll consider a zinc additive but doesn't have to be as potent as they suggest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GK1918 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 (edited) Question for Marty, babbit bearings in 320 ci Buicks? Then how come I have many many rod and main inserts on the shelf? we bought around1948 or so..written on the FM boxes?. Back to this post, I have been using 10-40 Royal Purple with no problems 1923 Fordsam Edited June 11, 2015 by GK1918 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 The discussion above illustrates perfectly why we NEVER suggest what oil customers should use in their vehicles. We let them do their own research and tell us what they want to use. Opinions re oil are like belly buttons, everyone has one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 The engine in question has just been rebuilt.K' : therefore use a non-synthetic for "break-in" . With clearances on the tight end of the spec spectrum , I suspect ultimately you will be using a 10w/30 or 10w/40 synthetic. I am eagerly heading over to the '24 Cad. Hope to drive it today. Been a while. Upon returning I shall cite references for the above. - Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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