68bill

Need help finding disassembly diagram of 63 tilt steering column

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I think the outer casing on the turn signal switch actuating cable is broken. I pulled the steering wheel and bearing on the shaft but could not figure out how to go any further. It looked like the Chromed cover should come off next but it won't move. I have the 63 chassis service manual that includes the Riviera but it has no info on Riv tilt column. Where can I find the brake down diagram and instruction?

Thanks

Bill

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I found the brake down diagram I needed just in a different part of the service manual and it tells me there I need two slide hammers to remove the chromed actuator cover so maybe I'll get it apart when I get the right tools. Does anyone make replacement actuating cables?

Bill

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                  You will need to source good used ones as they are not reproduced.

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Thanks for the reply. I had read in an old post that someone was going to try to have a bicycle shop make one. Did that not work?

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That may have been me.  I live next door to a guy who owns a motorcycle sales and repair shop.  I just haven't got to the point where I need to replace a cable yet.  The cables on both my '63 and '64 are still in one piece.  As I try to think back, I'm thinking that Jim Cannon might have come up with a fix for that.  It's the sheath that's broken, not the wire inside, correct?

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Yes It's just the sheath. I haven't got it out yet but maybe this weekend.

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Hi Newbie

Try a place called McMaster Carr. They carry many parts that can be retrofitted to our Rivs. For example the stainless steel cowl screen. They may have bulk sheathed cable in various sizes?

Good Luck

Glenn

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I got the puller I needed today and with the steering wheel, chrome cover and switch removed I took out the one screw holding the top of the cable and slid the eye of the cable off the pin and fished the cable out going down. The sheath was broken at the top clamp and while I was fishing it out it broke halfway down the sheath where it had a bad ware spot through the sheath down to the cable. I had some electrical heat shrink 3/16 x 1 1/4 so after cleaning the sheath and making some small cuts on it with a knife where the heat shrink could grip it I used a small pair of needlnose pliers to expand the heat shrink enough to slide over the eye. The heat shrink shrunk down good and gripped just fine but I thought while I was at it I just as well add extra layers to it for strength. I put three layers at the top and two in the middle. I have seen different thicknesses of heat shrink and don't know if all would be able to be expanded that much and still shrink down tight. Mine was fairly thick walled but not the type with glue in it. Turn signals now work right and left.

Bill

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Great idea.  Thanks for posting.  

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68 bill- do you have a picture of that tool you used to pull out chrome piece. I also need to remove it to replace old one with new one. That thing is stuck in there. Would really appreciate the help. Thank you. 

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On 6/3/2015 at 5:16 PM, 68bill said:

I got the puller I needed today and with the steering wheel, chrome cover and switch removed I took out the one screw holding the top of the cable and slid the eye of the cable off the pin and fished the cable out going down. The sheath was broken at the top clamp and while I was fishing it out it broke halfway down the sheath where it had a bad ware spot through the sheath down to the cable. I had some electrical heat shrink 3/16 x 1 1/4 so after cleaning the sheath and making some small cuts on it with a knife where the heat shrink could grip it I used a small pair of needlnose pliers to expand the heat shrink enough to slide over the eye. The heat shrink shrunk down good and gripped just fine but I thought while I was at it I just as well add extra layers to it for strength. I put three layers at the top and two in the middle. I have seen different thicknesses of heat shrink and don't know if all would be able to be expanded that much and still shrink down tight. Mine was fairly thick walled but not the type with glue in it. Turn signals now work right and left.

Bill

Hi bill, wanted to know if you had a picture of that tool you used to pull whole chrome piece out. I’m replacing mine with a re-chromed one  and that thing is well stuck in there. I would appreciate it thanks!  

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3 hours ago, Mass9192 said:

Hi bill, wanted to know if you had a picture of that tool you used to pull whole chrome piece out. I’m replacing mine with a re-chromed one  and that thing is well stuck in there. I would appreciate it thanks!  

 

I used an internal gear/pulley puller.

 

The attached picture is the official Buick tool to do it. Seeing this, you could probably make one from a piece of sheet steel.

 

 

Kent Moore tool J-21180.jpg

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Bill (and everyone with a 1st gen. Riviera with a tilt column):

 

I strongly recommend that you remove the external spring from the underside of the turn signal switch down on the column. The spring is not needed. It is over-engineered. The tension of the spring on the turn signal cable sheath is what breaks it over time, especially if you tilt the steering wheel to the full up position. That stretches the cable out to its full length and pulls the switch up a bit against the spring.

 

The switch body is designed to slide up and down two pins. You can see them in the picture of the switch with the spring removed. You can see how much the switch moves by the marks left where the pin heads slide. Make sure it is free to move on those pins. Let the wiring harness pull the switch down, instead of the spring.

 

 

Turn signal switch w-spring.JPG

Turn signal switch - spring removed.JPG

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10 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

Bill (and everyone with a 1st gen. Riviera with a tilt column):

 

I strongly recommend that you remove the external spring from the underside of the turn signal switch down on the column. The spring is not needed. It is over-engineered. The tension of the spring on the turn signal cable sheath is what breaks it over time, especially if you tilt the steering wheel to the full up position. That stretches the cable out to its full length and pulls the switch up a bit against the spring.

 

The switch body is designed to slide up and down two pins. You can see them in the picture of the switch with the spring removed. You can see how much the switch moves by the marks left where the pin heads slide. Make sure it is free to move on those pins. Let the wiring harness pull the switch down, instead of the spring.

 

 

Turn signal switch w-spring.JPG

Turn signal switch - spring removed.JPG

Thanks for the tip! 👍🏼

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