bhclark Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) My son's 230,000 mile 1990 stranded him the other day. It will crank, but won't start.I towed it home today and began diagnosis.No pressure at the fuel rail, so I pulled the fuel filter. No pressure in the line at all.Looks like an original A/C fuel filter, so I'll replace it while I've got it out.Cranked with no fuel filter in place and no fuel coming through at all. I'm assuming fuel pump, but want to rule out the relay and regulator if necessary. I don't have the master's degree in BS to figure out where the relay is using the FSM. Can someone give me a hint? What's the best way to check the fuel pump regulator, if that could be causing the issue? Any other tips, tricks, or suggestions to verify prior to dropping the tank? Car has a fresh full tank of gas, so that ought to be fun. I think I'm going to have to buy a pump to empty the tank before I drop it.Recommendations on fuel pump (and strainer) brand? I know it's usually worth it to go with a name brand here. Thanks guys! Edited May 31, 2015 by bhclark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 There should be a single lead with a green connector shell sticking out of the wiring harness on the LH side of the engine bay.It's not connected to anything, just hangs there. It's the fuel pump priming connector. Apply 12 volts to it to run the pump.Forget the fuel regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 I changed the relay. No change.I'll try the fuel pump primer next. I'm considering sending this to the mechanic.I pulled the gas tank out of the '89 parts car, but the rear end was out at the time. It looks like the track bar and the exhaust are in the way of pulling the tank. Not fun, especially in the driveway instead of the garage. ugh. I'm guessing about $800 for the shop to do it. ($100 in parts that I'm sure they will charge $200 for) I'll call and get a few estimates tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Heat shields off the exhaust is all I remember needing to remove the tank. Getting the rubber filler couplings off can be frustrating. I've used on of those hydraulic tables Harbor Freight sells to R&R the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) Thanks Harry. I ran a jumper from the + battery terminal to the green connector. No dice. \So, that seems to narrow it down to the pump or the wiring to the pump, which I'll have to drop the tank to inspect the end of anyway. If I can remove the heat shield without removing the exhaust and I can find a pump that will get most of the fuel out, then I'll do the job when we return from the Nationals. Working every day between then and now...no time. opinion on Delco vs. Bosch fuel pumps? Delco is listed as OEM and Bosch as an OEM upgrade. The Bosch pictures all the associated parts. I'm assuming the Delco comes with all that as well? I know to stay away from the generic, Airtex, etc.It looks like the Dephi strainer is the same quality as the Delco.And I'll probably go Wix on the filter. Edited May 31, 2015 by bhclark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 I have went ahead and ordered the AC Delco Pump and Strainer, along with a Wix filter. Should be good for another 230,000 miles once I get back from Springfield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I've learned the hard way to always use Delco pumps on GM cars. Bosch is probably OK and not sure that Delco is Delco any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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