franc944

Select 60 Restoration

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Greeting all.

I thought I would start a new post on the restoration progress of my 1990 Select 60

I bought this car on Ebay from Tom Benvie in Massachusetts. This was originally a Chicago car that spend time in LA California before coming to Massachusetts and now Connecticut.

I am starting with getting the car running.

So I have replaced every fuel line, brake line, and steering component due to leaks as well as rear struts.

Though the brake lines were rotted, there is remarkably little rust under the car and I will treat those spots with POR 15 and a chassis black.

I sent the transmission from a running parts car out to be rebuilt and once I have that back we should have a running car and can then begin the bodywork and interior restoration.

This will be a rolling restoration.

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Edited by franc944 (see edit history)
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What a great car to save and restore, your my hero!! Good luck with the resto and keep us posted!

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I just got some bad news from my transmission builder.

Broken parts have to come from GM.

It could take two weeks to get them.

That will give me time to do the front struts and treat the rust on the bottom on the car and swap the hood and latch over

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The cooling system is in perfect condition.

I flushed and replaced coolant and thermostat anyway but there was no rust. Water pump looks to have already been replaced. It did need a new radiator cap.

Exhaust looks great and looks like it was also replaced though I will be doing the O2 sensor for good measure.

I installed the suggested aftermarket power steering cooler because the original was rusted through and the bracket was broken.

I have a parts car I can get an original power steering cooler off of that is original.

Who votes for used original power steering cooler and who votes for shiny new aftermarket cooler?

Edited by franc944 (see edit history)

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franc944,

 

Where are you located in CT?  I am also in CT and would welcome you to the BCA and local Yankee Chapter.  I have a '90 convertible.

 

John

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IMO, I'd wire brush and repaint an original power steering cooler.

Edited by DShip (see edit history)

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I am in. I am just south of Hartford. Rocky Hill

Pm me or reply with a link to your club or let me know how to join please.

Thanks

franc944,

Where are you located in CT? I am also in CT and would welcome you to the BCA and local Yankee Chapter. I have a '90 convertible.

John

Edited by franc944 (see edit history)

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There does not appear to be any oil leaks and it has been my experience to leave alone things like a rear main seal that are not broken because disturbing things may make problems worse in the long run but while I have the transmission out should I replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket?

It is a 100,000 mile car but like I said it isn't leaking yet but I know from experience these parts are cheap and if I put in the rebuilt trans and I get an oil leak later from the rear main or oil pan that it is much more work in the long run.

What else should I change while the trans is out?

Edited by franc944 (see edit history)

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as a DIY person - on most things - i usually take a: "well, while i'm here i might as well repair..." whatever would take the same tear-down...

 

if your pocketbook allows having the additional repairs done by the mechanic, i'd go for it - for peace of mind. :)

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What else should I change while the trans is out?

 

Check motor and transmission mounts.

Check CV joints in the half shafts.

Check the power steering rack and hoses going to it for leaks.

Check the freeze plugs. They might be easier to change, if needed, with the transmission out.

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I just got some bad news from my transmission builder.

Broken parts have to come from GM.

It could take two weeks to get them.

That will give me time to do the front struts and treat the rust on the bottom on the car and swap the hood and latch over

 

Looks like a broken thrust washer.  Common problem in our transmissions. 

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I agree on the thrust washer. I had that happen to the Black's transmission. Still got over 20,000 miles before it had to be replaced. You have it out may as well do it. Also be sure to replace the axle seals in the tranny. They are real hard to replace later when the tranny is installed.

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I got the $180 Pioneer master rebuild kit from Rock auto and it looks like it came with the axel seals so will do.

In my quest to be thorough I am changing the ac condenser and accumulator n orifice n o rings.

I would like to get new ac lines but my search tells me you can't find them.

Doesn't anyone have a solution?

Is original old ones or custom made new the only way to go?

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Did you get my PM about our informal breakfast gathering at Mitchell's on Main in Cromwell, this morning at 9 AM?  All are welcome.  Just look for someone with Buick logo on  a shirt or cap.  Usually about 10-12 people.

 

John

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Yes

Thank you John

This weekend I am not available

I am camping with the scouts.

I would like to meet up next time.

Did you get my PM about our informal breakfast gathering at Mitchell's on Main in Cromwell, this morning at 9 AM?  All are welcome.  Just look for someone with Buick logo on  a shirt or cap.  Usually about 10-12 people.

 

John

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What else should I change with the transmission out.........  The engine freeze plugs especially on the transmission side,  they are a bear to do with the transmission in place..

It does not seem to be a problem but I had one leaking on a 1991 with only 30K miles.

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You may be able to use your old alum line ends and have new hose crimped on.

Used to be able to by ac rated hose in bulk, and a hydraulic shop should be able to crimp them

Quote"I got the $180 Pioneer master rebuild kit from Rock auto and it looks like it came with the axel seals so will do.

In my quest to be thorough I am changing the ac condenser and accumulator n orifice n o rings.

I would like to get new ac lines but my search tells me you can't find "quote

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Can't find what please ? I have a couple of O-ring kits I bought online. Every AC connection has a O-ring.

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Can't find what please ? I have a couple of O-ring kits I bought online. Every AC connection has a O-ring.

I am sorry.  I could not find the A/C lines sold new anywhere.

 

I did not realize they were unique to the Reatta I figured like the compressor and evaporator they were the same used on the Riviera and Trofeo etc.

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The ones that run along the fenderwell and the cowl ? I suspect those will need to be custom made. Do ones for a Riviera fit ?

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So I knew the car needed new strut-rod bushings, subframe bushings and bolts as well as transmission cooler lines.

My transmission guy suggestions I replace the Whole sub frame from the parts car due to a little rust.

What do you guys think?

Should I buy a used sub frame and keep my parts car a roller? Anyone in CT want to sell me a sub-frame?

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Are those photos showing what you call "a little rust"? Below is how mine looks after 25+ years in Tennessee without salt and always kept in a garage.

 

From what I see in your photos I would definitely replace the sub-frame.  If your parts car has rust I wouldn't consider using it. Connecticut? Are you sure you want to get another sub-frame from the rust belt? If I were going to go to all the trouble of replacing a sub-frame I would want it to come from a car that's not been exposed to salt.

 

 

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