Guest Nate B. Umberger Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I am getting a 39 olds running and have some questions regarding the timing and gap on the spark plugs. The car:4 Door SedanStraight 6Car hasn’t run in yearsWe have a PDF of the 39 shop Manual Questions please: -What should the gap on the spark plug be?-How to adjust cam to space points correctly timed with top-dead center in cylinder one? Thank you very much for your time Nate B. Umberger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) Why don't you look it up in the shop manual? Recommended spark plug gap .040 inch Recommended point gap .020 inch If you have never done this you will need a spark plug gapping tool and a set of feeler gauges. The feeler gauges can adjust the spark plug gap IF the plugs are new, if they are worn you need the wire type gauge. Turn the engine until the points are fully open, in other words, the rubbing block of the points is on the peak of the cam. Insert the .020 feeler gauge between the points. Adjust the points until there is a slight drag on the gauge. There is either an eccentric screw adjustment or on newer points, a pair of notches you can put a screwdriver in. The screw that holds the points down must be slightly snug but not so tight the points won't move. When the points are set, tighten the screw. You must check ignition timing after adjusting the points, it will change the timing slightly. The above is for NEW points. You can adjust used points the same way if you file them smooth with a points file or clean with 600 wet or dry sandpaper. Tear off a little piece of sandpaper and fold it with the rough side out. Put it between the points, hold them together and pull the sandpaper out. Do this a few times and inspect the points, if they are clean they are ready to use, a slight amount of pitting is of no consequence. Now clean them by pulling a piece of clean white paper between them the same way. If you can give them a shot of contact cleaner or brake clean spray so much the better. When the white paper comes out clean they are done. Edited May 26, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 If you want the car to start easier gap the plugs a little closer. .025 to .030 may work better than the recommended .040. Spark should be timed to fire at TDC or top dead center of #1 cylinder. Turn engine until #1 is at TDC using timing marks or other method. Turn the distributor until points are just closed. Connect a 6V test light or bulb across the points, or connect one end to the distributor side of the coil and the other end to ground (same thing). Slowly turn the distributor the opposite direction to the cam rotation. Light should come on at the instant the points open. Lock down the distributor. Your timing is set. You can check dwell with a dwell meter and timing with a timing light, but a good man with a set of feeler gauges can get them just as accurate the way I described, with no other instruments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nate B. Umberger Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Thank you for taking your time to tell me this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 (edited) You are welcome. I am pleased the information was helpful, we don't always know if we hit the mark because not many follow up. Your courtesy is appreciated. Edited May 27, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nate B. Umberger Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I now have the engine running and have one more question. The oil in the manual says 20W. What oil type of oil, would be a substitute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 (edited) You should be able to buy 20W20 oil at any auto parts store. 10W30 is a good substitute although some prefer 15W40 if the engine is worn because it is a little thicker. If you have no oil filter it is necessary to change oil frequently, every 1000 to 2000 miles. It would be a good idea to remove the oil pan and clean out the sludge . Edited May 28, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nate B. Umberger Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Thank you very much. One more question- -The brakes don't work. I need to take the wheels off. I can't unbolt them. I have tried everything. I have used a breaker bar and tire iron. Someone before has even broken the lug studs. What can I soak or do to loosen them up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Some older model cars have left hand thread wheel bolts on the left side. They turn the opposite way of conventional nuts. They should be marked with an L. Or, they may be rusted on. Try cleaning them with a wire brush . A garage would heat them with an acetylene torch, then they would be sure to come off. For the front wheels you can leave the wheel bolted to the hub. The hub will come off easier with the wheel on it. Remove the dust cap in the center of the wheel, remove the cotter pin and unscrew the big nut but not all the way. Give the wheel a wiggle and the bearing will pop out. Now you can remove the nut and bearing and place them on a clean rag, or in a container where they will not get dirty. With the bearing out, you can pull the wheel and brake drum straight off. If it will not come off you may need to back off the brake adjustment. Lay the wheel flat and you can drive the inner bearing out with a wood block or brass drift. The grease seal will come out with it. Now you can wash the bearings in Varsol and inspect them. If they are good, you can pack them with grease and use them again but you should replace the seal with a new one if it is old. This is in addition to inspecting and repairing/relining the brakes. Your shop manual should cover the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 If the rear hub is held on with a giant nut in the middle you will need a very large hub puller to get it off. If no nut, the drum will come off once the wheel is off. It may not want to but it will with a little persuasion. Do not hammer on the outside of the drum, you can bend them easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nate B. Umberger Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Thank you very much. The left side is reverse and right is traditional. Now I have yet another question. - Where can I buy good parts for my car. I need to replace the master cylinder for the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I would try NAPA or your local auto parts store first. If they can't help there are specialists like Kanter but they charge more money for the same parts. I don't know who the Olds parts specialists are, if there are any. A web search may turn up something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nate B. Umberger Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 The car is coming along. Everything is almost mechanically sound. Now I have been working on the brakes. The rod that connects the brake pedal to master cylinder is stuck on the master cylinder. The nut will not screw off. It is almost like the nut and rod are almost bonded together. The master cylinder is completely broken and that is why I need to take it off. Any advice or chemical to soak the two together, to loosen the two? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob Call Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) Nate If you can get the master cylinder out even with the push rod stuck, check with Northwestern Auto Supply inGrand Rapids, MI (http://www.northwesternautosupply.com/) to see if they have one in stock or if they can rebuild it. I sent them a Chrysler MC with the pedal pivot rod stuck in the MC. They sent me a rebuilt MC with the pivot rod installed. Per their instructions I sent the old core by priority mail on Friday and got the rebuilt MC by priority mail on Monday. The don't have an online catalog. So, call them and ask questions and buy from them if they have what you need. Rock Auto online (rockauto.com) is a good source for some parts at reasonable prices. Check their online catalog to see if they have what you need in stock. Bob Edited July 3, 2015 by Bob Call (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill pritchett Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Mike Fusick is the top supplier of Olds parts. Great people to work with and have quite extensive selection, especially for the older ones. https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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