dmgoulet

My '35 KC 2nd Series restoration

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I wanted to keep it as is so I cleaned up the tips and where there was a poor connection I added a coating of sodder to the 3  tips. Not had any trouble since then. I have seen complete wiring harnesses on the net, though.

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Try Don Axlerod, he sells headlight parts and I believe he has those. Google antique headlamps

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well, I managed to find some beat up headlight buckets on ebay that had the connectors still in place.   I bought it them for under 60 bucks.   I pulled the connectors out and gave them a bit of cleaning.   Got some headlight bucket wiring from Mac's as suggested,  Now that I have all the parts needed for this, I can start restore of the headlight buckets, harness, and reflectors.  I bought some lenses that are in great shape too.

 

Ever so slow progression.

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When you assemble the connections, look at the 3 hole spacer as there are the numbers 1-2-3 on it. The wires must be set in the appropriate hole in both connectors for the lights to work properly. A wiring diagram will show you which wire goes to which number.

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I did notice the numbers on the connector, and I recall seeing the numbers on the wiring schematic in my manual.  I doubt I can remove these terminals from the ends of these wires as they are crimped on.  I have purchased the semi-spherical ones, but haven't located the flat ones.

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You don't remove the terminals, just slide the brass connector down and then push each wire up and pull it out of the bakelite sleeve as the terminals nest in the sleeve. Locate which wire goes to the correct number by using the diagram and simply reinstall the appropriate wire in it's correct slot.Then slide the brass connector back over the sleeve.

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Finally something new to share on my project. 

 

I purchased a wire harness from RIWire and carefully pulled the correct portion into the cab.  In an earlier post, I indicated I found headlight bucket connectors and the bucket wire harness. I rebuilt the sockets and connectors.  They are alive!!!!! Parking lights and headlights work

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Haven't posted in awhile.  Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. 

 

I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster.  It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. 

 

I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole thru the cluster bracket and welded a steel screw to it thru the hole to hold the key switch in place

 

On my agenda is to get my broken loose fuel tank baffle repaired and have the tank sealed...luckily it is actually in good structural condition.  Also am still twiddling with aligning the front end body panels/parts (front fenders, radiator and shell, running boards and skirts, and the hood and cab)  it's close, but something is up because I cannot get everything to meet up with all mounting holes without oxerflexing some things...  and I want to get the electrical hooked up so I can fire the motor...I have been cranking it with the starter to keep the oil pushed around.

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Posted (edited)

Hi all.    Still having a bit of trouble deciding if the rear of the engine/trans is too high, or if I need to raise my cab up some more.

 

Since my dad and I made the rear crossmember from pieces obtained in the distant past from members here, I am wondering if anyone can provide me some simple measurements.

I just put a straight-edge (my 4' level) in the groove of the under-side of the rear crossmember.   From that, I measured the distance between the bottom of the frame rails to the top edge of my straight-edge.   I measured 1-5/8" on both sides.

 

Can anyone possibly confirm if I am too high or too low?  

Here is an image of what it looks like.   Only problem is that the top of the transmission is too high that the metal plate that screws to the wood floor board wont sit flush against the board.

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any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Dennis

 

 

 

Edited by dmgoulet
duplicate picture (see edit history)

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