dmgoulet

My '35 KC 2nd Series restoration

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Since I have been getting more involved with following postings online here at AACA, I thought it would be good to show my project progression.   Here are some photos.

 

The black & white multiple pictures is back in 1963ish when my dad replaced the original engine with a 286 Chevy small block :(

I am the younger of the two boys.

 

Then a photo of the engine sitting in the frame...  My dad and I made the rear supporting crossmember from parts (some from another AACA member).  I rebuilt this engine (1948 model 230 cid) while I was in the USAF)

 

Then a photo of my frame just after returning from being powder coated.  It looks just awesome!

 

Then a photo of the engine back in the frame.

 

Then another photo of the crossmember my dad and I made but looking at it from underneath.

 

And finally a picture of the inside of the cab sitting on the frame showing transmission fit... I think it will work out alright.

 

 

Ive got the cab back off the frame.  I have a newer bellhousing that I need to modify to fit the correct foot-starter pedal so that it aligns right with the starter.  

 

************************   Now for a Question!!!!   ********************

 

I set the running board on its perches and am wondering about the straps coming from the 'skirt' to the top of the frame.   It looks like they should line up with some holes in the top of the frame (they're off a bit)... did these bolt directly to the frame with rubber padding?   Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

The last picture should be of the running board on the frame.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Dennis

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Nice Job Dennis. Are you talking about the running board sitting on the supports from the frame to the boards?

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Dave,

 I guess they are called 'skirts' that are just inboard of the running board and go upward ( hiding the frame ).   If you look at my last photo, about halfway down the 'skirt'  upper edge there is a strap that overlaps the top of the frame.   and at the very end (where the rear fender will meet) there is another strap.  

 

The middle strap nearly lines up with a hole in the top of the frame.   I am assuming this would 'mount' here somehow (bushing? rubber pads?)  but not sure since these were never connected (just dangling) ever since I got the truck.    The back strap isnt long enough to reach the frame.  Did it mount to something else?   Both straps have about a 1" hole at the end that would meet up with something.

 

Hope you can see what Im talking about!

 

Dennis

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Just looked at mine and they are the same, being the second series is kind of put together from other vehicles,

I think the running boards and splash guards are the same as 33 Plymouth, It could be they hook up on the Plymouth frame,

Mine are like yours just there not hooked up.

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Great!  Thanks.   Kinda strange that nothing was done to either connect the straps or eliminate them.

 

Dennis

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Those straps do absolutely nothing that I can see. Mine were rusted and I had a guy weld on new ones and extend them while he filled the splash aprons. I didn't know what I would need so extending them seemed the way to go. When I got to putting the aprons back on the frame I discovered they connected to nothing at all. I ended up cutting them back until they just sat on the frame and left them. Anybody out there know what they were intended for? If they were squashed between the body,the body mounting filler strap and the frame top, they MIGHT be considered part of the splash apron mounting. Yes,no,maybe?

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Thanks for the info. It would be interesting to see if any other vehicle using these aprons had utilized the straps.

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Dave,Is the apron on the 34, and 35 first series, the same as 35 second series?

Since the cab on second series is different and mounts different, there was no where to hook them up, so the just left them dangling?

Interesting.

Thanks dave

Jesse

Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)

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I thought older vehicles would be less complicated!!! <grin>

Go work on a 2015 anything from a VW to a Gulf stream Jet. Then come back and comment. HEHE!

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I know!!! My 97 Dakota is complicated... but heck, I worked on F-16s... with good documentation and the right tools anything can be worked on

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My uncle use to work on 104s, Take that and go work on a B1B. The stories that he would tell. Language not good!!!  No thanks. And how often does the company supply you with the correct tools?  I use to work in Ford experimental lab and half the time, the correct tools were not available. We started to do the EEC system and we would pull our hair out to try and diag.

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Hello Dennis, Why did you add the additional cross member support under the tranny? DId the '35 not have the bell housing frame mount?

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Dave... exactly. My point is that there is little documentation available (with illustrations) for these antique vehicles. And there are fewer and fewer grease monkeys from the Era with the knowledge.

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Surf City,

the Second Series KC used the rear mount like my truck has. I am unsure as to the reason for the crossmember that is just forward of the bell housing. The earlier series KC had the rear crossmember that was crossed above the trans just aft of the bell housing. I assume the later style was more serviceable than the earlier.

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Mine was removed when I got truck,it had a hemi in it, I had to find it and reinstall it, when I went back to original powertrain, I modified it so I could remove it during engine changes, I think it was put in there between transmission and engine to support the frame from cracking.

Jesse

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My spalsh apron straps were not that bad off and they had no large stamped holes in them like those in the photos. I think they may have been used in cars to mount in the body mount bolt position. Those bolt positions don't exist on my KCL. But it came originally as a cowl and chassis. This may explain the lack of holes. 

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Ok, I'm working on fitting the running boards to the frame... I had to rework the brackets that support the running boards as the front ones were angling down about an inch or so. Before getting the front fenders into position I need to secure the bracket that is under the radiator and that the fender supports mount to. Is there any insulators between the frame and this bracket or any kind of spacer?

I noticed that there is supposed to be some sort of felt strip that runs along the top edge of the running board skirt. Is it mostly to stop metal to metal contact with the bottom of the cab?

Also, since my running boards are warped and splitting in the middle, I bought some reproductions that look just awesome. The original are connected to the skirt with some sort of rivet. Would one recommend pop rivets as a replacement or recommend something else?

Thanks on advance for advice.

Dennis

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It's kinda bugging me about those straps... if not utilized on the 2nd Series KC, what did they connect to on the 1st Series? The frame is the same (except for maybe cab mounts) as well as the fenders and running boards. Inquiring minds MUST know!!

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I've been working on a solution to using a foot activated starter as the original had.   I didnt have any of the original parts (as usual).   I did have a bell housing that was from a later model, however the foot starter it had was much different (for a different cab).   I located a foot starter, and a starter motor (both off of a 33 dodge engine).  

I started by shaving off the pivot point on the later model bell housing because it was in the approximate location that the base of the '33 starter pedal needed to be.   I made a U bracket to cradle the starter pedal.   

Ive got to get the cab back in place and determine the travel needed for the pedal.  I think i will need to make longer linkages between the starter shift fork and the starter pedal.

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That looks great! Will the cab/firewall clear the starter pedal? Just curious if it aligns with a slot in the firewall...

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Thanks.

It does fit in the slot on the floorboard above the hole for the shift lever. I think it is standing a bit too upright which is why I may need to make longer linkages.

Edited by dmgoulet (see edit history)

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Bracket look good, sometimes you have to engineer fixes on some of these, The second series is unique in it was only built for 6 months, I don't think the running boards and apron on second series is the same as first, Dave might know for sure, I will need to ask hotrod Charlie, or bryan , They would know for sure,

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