dmgoulet Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Oh yeah that was a few weeks ago we were discussing that. Anyway, Dave, do you have the ignition coil lock and cable similar to what I described a few posts up? If so, what are you asking for it?Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Hey all, I have started aligning body panels/parts now that I believe I have my cab sitting correctly on the frame. Using two 7/8" ash boards on each front side of the cab (4 boards total) and one 1/4" oak board at the rear cab mount pads, I have about 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the bottom sill of the cab. According to the parts manual, the Front Fender Crossbar (613995) is mounted to the front crossmember with bolts (600553) and shims (604741). What I have for the shims are flat metal stock about 1/8" thick and have no number on them. When the radiator assembly is put in place and the front fenders are bolted in place, I am running into some fitting problems. The lower 1/2 distance of the hood side panels rubs against (and nearly overlap) the lip where it meets the cab. The top panels fit fine, and since the radiator has some position adjustment, the hood panels mate up fine. It appears the whole front assembly needs to come up about another 1/8", but Im not sure 'where' the space needs to be added. 1. Since the holes in the fenders for the bumper mounts is nearly spot-on, raising the Crossbar would affect that. 2. If I add shims in-between the Crossbar and the Radiator mount, that may affect how the fenders meed up with the Grill housing. Does anyone have information on what is supposed to be installed for aligning this? Are the shims for the Crossbar just 1/8" flat stock like I have? Is there supposed to be shims between the Radiator mounting bracket and the Crossbar? Has anyone else resolved this issue and care to elaborate? Thanks Much Dennis. Ive attached some photos to show the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Dennis , I mounted the crossbar to frame with a 1/4 rubber by 2 inch sheet as a bumper , once fender mounted and shroud put on radiator, it has to be adjusted together to align. ,adjusted engine cowling with rods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Thx... I'll try fitting with thicker shim between crossbar and frame... and see where that puts the alignment of the hood sides. Original factory parts diagrams would make this much easier. scanning thru a large list of parts and determining they are for my truck model is grueling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 You may not find breakdown ,. The second series was only built 6 months, It was a truck in transition to the 36,. We find with all model changes during production, especially in early years with Engineers always trying to improve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 A bit of progress on the alignment. The original metal shims (as seen on bolts in previous post) is about 1/4". I kept that in-between the crossbar and the fram. I added another 1/4" shim betwen the radiator mount bracket and the crossbar (where the radiator mount 'studs' go thru the crossbar. I'll re-install a fender tomorrow and see if it looks like it will align better. Dennis 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 you have lacing in between? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 I have the lacing on the cab surface, but not on the radiator shell. I have a few screws spun in at a couple locations to account for it though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I have been getting some things completed. Clutch fork boot: Made a snap in ring from some thick sheet metal and found a pattern online to make the boot using g black leather. Welded holes and mating surfaces on clutch and brake pedal linkages and re-drilled/machined to operate smoothly. My dad machined a new shaft for the pedals and machined pedal bushings to solid-up the pedals. I fabricated some new front cab wood mounts from 7/8" ash board. Using two on each side (stacked) gave me a 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the lower lip of the cab. Using 1/4" oak shims at the rear cab mounts squared things up. It does look like my rear crossmember is holding the trans up too high into the cab... I will need to lower it... which means my clutch torque shaft pivot bracket will need to be modified. The joy of it all!!! I did crank the engine over via the foot starter pedal... good to see that I got that right. cranking without plugs in to circulate oil has revealed a couple oil leaks... I think it is the front and rear oil pan gaskets that are not sealing well. I'm still fitting body parts and learning how to do body work. There are some things I will need to get a professional to do... the lower cab sheet metal is rusted away... I know patch panels are available... Finances are holding me back for now. 20160605_133430.mp4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) Question: Does anyone have a source or an alternative for the headlight bucket to wire harness connectors? I found a picture of what they probably look like that I have included. Thanks, Dennis Edited October 24, 2017 by dmgoulet (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road dog Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 I wanted to keep it as is so I cleaned up the tips and where there was a poor connection I added a coating of sodder to the 3 tips. Not had any trouble since then. I have seen complete wiring harnesses on the net, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Try mac's https://www.macsautoparts.com/early_v8_ford_truck/headlight-wiring-2-bulbs-use-original-sockets-ford-372499.html?crosssell=Homepage_Featured_Category_Electrical+Wiring+Harnesses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Try Don Axlerod, he sells headlight parts and I believe he has those. Google antique headlamps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 Thanks all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 well, I managed to find some beat up headlight buckets on ebay that had the connectors still in place. I bought it them for under 60 bucks. I pulled the connectors out and gave them a bit of cleaning. Got some headlight bucket wiring from Mac's as suggested, Now that I have all the parts needed for this, I can start restore of the headlight buckets, harness, and reflectors. I bought some lenses that are in great shape too. Ever so slow progression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 When you assemble the connections, look at the 3 hole spacer as there are the numbers 1-2-3 on it. The wires must be set in the appropriate hole in both connectors for the lights to work properly. A wiring diagram will show you which wire goes to which number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted May 26, 2018 Author Share Posted May 26, 2018 I did notice the numbers on the connector, and I recall seeing the numbers on the wiring schematic in my manual. I doubt I can remove these terminals from the ends of these wires as they are crimped on. I have purchased the semi-spherical ones, but haven't located the flat ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 You don't remove the terminals, just slide the brass connector down and then push each wire up and pull it out of the bakelite sleeve as the terminals nest in the sleeve. Locate which wire goes to the correct number by using the diagram and simply reinstall the appropriate wire in it's correct slot.Then slide the brass connector back over the sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 Finally something new to share on my project. I purchased a wire harness from RIWire and carefully pulled the correct portion into the cab. In an earlier post, I indicated I found headlight bucket connectors and the bucket wire harness. I rebuilt the sockets and connectors. They are alive!!!!! Parking lights and headlights work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 Haven't posted in awhile. Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster. It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole thru the cluster bracket and welded a steel screw to it thru the hole to hold the key switch in place On my agenda is to get my broken loose fuel tank baffle repaired and have the tank sealed...luckily it is actually in good structural condition. Also am still twiddling with aligning the front end body panels/parts (front fenders, radiator and shell, running boards and skirts, and the hood and cab) it's close, but something is up because I cannot get everything to meet up with all mounting holes without oxerflexing some things... and I want to get the electrical hooked up so I can fire the motor...I have been cranking it with the starter to keep the oil pushed around. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted July 21, 2019 Author Share Posted July 21, 2019 (edited) Hi all. Still having a bit of trouble deciding if the rear of the engine/trans is too high, or if I need to raise my cab up some more. Since my dad and I made the rear crossmember from pieces obtained in the distant past from members here, I am wondering if anyone can provide me some simple measurements. I just put a straight-edge (my 4' level) in the groove of the under-side of the rear crossmember. From that, I measured the distance between the bottom of the frame rails to the top edge of my straight-edge. I measured 1-5/8" on both sides. Can anyone possibly confirm if I am too high or too low? Here is an image of what it looks like. Only problem is that the top of the transmission is too high that the metal plate that screws to the wood floor board wont sit flush against the board. any help is greatly appreciated. Dennis Edited July 21, 2019 by dmgoulet duplicate picture (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Slow but steady work in progress. Adjusted the TC-4301a regulator using the Autolite generator/regulator manual. Prior to adjusting, I was only getting 6.5 volts at the battery. At high idle, just below 8v, and low idle, down to 7v. I rebuilt the generator myself, and I needed to be sure it actually worked. Luckily I succeeded. Another checklist item completed. While running the engine, I noticed it idles rich. High idle for 15 minutes consumed almost 1/4 gallon of fuel. Low idle for same timeframe consumes about the same. I rebuilt the carb a few months ago, but there must be something still wrong with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 Its been awhile since I last posted... My fuel tank had a problem that required resolution. The baffle had broke loose and sheered the float shaft off the sending unit. I did find a replacement sending unit, but had to figure out what to do about the baffle. The tank had not had fuel in it since before 2005, and I had washed it out when it was emptied and left open all this time. A couple weeks ago I took the plunge and cut open a 6" flap in the top of the tank. Inside the tank was quite clean. I re-positioned the baffle back in its original location and did several spot welds at the two lower corners where it met the tank wall. I knocked out what dents/dings I could and slowly spot welded the flap to close the tank. some scrubbing and sanding to clean up the outside before some primer and a jet-black final coat. I found some 1" felt 'anti-squeak' strips (for a Jeep fuel tank) and cut them to sized I thought i required. I used some 3M Super 77 adhesive to attach them to the underside of the frame, and surfaced one side of the tank straps with the felt. Tank is finally in the frame after at least 16 years. Need to get a fitting to attach the fuel line to the tank. I am missing one of the bulk-head connectors at the front right where the fuel line goes from the outside of the frame to the engine area. I found a different bulk-head connector that will work, but its a mismatch and quite ugly. I need make fuel lines that go from point to point rather than used pre-fab lines pieced together. Luckily I have the spring-like protector for the part of the fuel line where it runs the outside of the frame at the front wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 Looks great Dennis, adding the felt is a great idea...did you see some remnants of the original or is this an add on. Also, where the tail pipe comes under, is there a heat shield on the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 29, 2021 Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Alan Cutler said: Looks great Dennis, adding the felt is a great idea...did you see some remnants of the original or is this an add on. Also, where the tail pipe comes under, is there a heat shield on the tank? here is a section from the Parts List manual. It lists a lining (5 yards) as swell as anti-squeak (5 yards)... which seems excessive... so maybe it was thinner and wrapped around the tank? I figured to just put it on the inner side of the support strap and at the locations where the tank met the crossmember. what was there before was pieces of bicycle inner-tube on the straps only... which was surely not what was supposed to be there. There is no heat shield. I've not dove into the exhaust yet. some of the pictures I have in my manuals show the exhaust going down the right side of the frame and exiting the rear between the tank and the outer frame rail.. but my tank goes from rail to rail... so maybe it needs to route to the right some more to exit out the right rear?!! Dennis Edited August 29, 2021 by dmgoulet (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted October 2, 2021 Author Share Posted October 2, 2021 Definately cheating a bit here. I didnt have original exhaust hangers or the brackets, but several available images to fashion some. I didnt have proper tools to make the hanger that wrapped around the exhaust pipe, but this will work. I have to make a tailpipe hanger. I believe there is enough clearance from the fuel tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 (edited) Looks great Dennis, are you going to weld your joints or clamp them? Steve at DCM had hangers and clamps, fixed me right up. https://dcmclassics.com/42-1929-1935-dodge-truck?id_category=42&n=164 Edited October 3, 2021 by Alan Cutler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted October 3, 2021 Author Share Posted October 3, 2021 I'll start with clamps. If I have issues I can weld Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 35 minutes ago, dmgoulet said: I'll start with clamps. If I have issues I can weld I only will do clamps, the home shop fellow that ends up buying it (some day, when I am gone) will appreciate it...😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted August 21, 2022 Author Share Posted August 21, 2022 Hi all. Thought I'd submit an update since it has been awhile. I've been watching alot of videos on body panel repairs so that I might be able to tackle the more complicated repairs. Started working on the running board skirt. It wasn't all that bad to begin with, but did need attention. I still have a bit more to do on it. Notice the ripples: Most of the ripples worked out: Got these running boards from a vendor on ebay. These are very sturdy and the rubber seems very thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 Knocking at your door. How are you doing? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmgoulet Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 Hi Dave. Sorta chuggin' along. Having knee issues so motivation is low. Some time ago I scrounged up NOS wheel hubs and drums already riveted together... I was having trouble adjusting the brake shoes. I thought maybe the drums were out of round. It ended up the drums were not concentric with the hubs. Brought them up to my dad as he has a buddy that has a lathe to turn them. I have been slowly gathering replacement skins for the bottom edges of the cab. The areas for and aft of the cab doors are not all that great. I've been slowly tackling some if the body work... I will probably need to seek someone who has the proper tools for some of the issues. I've been firing up the motor about once a week for about 15 minutes. I've noticed my oil pressure is always 15psi...I tried another mechanical gauge which showed the same thing. It's either the pump or the pressure regulator... the mo tg or only has about 10k miles on it as I drove the truck around awhile before the trans case cracked...which is when I parked it and started the restore... that was almost 20 years ago. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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