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I have an 89 8v with 9,500 miles. Because of the age I know I should change the brake hoses and probably flush out the brake system. The brakes seem to work fine but I wonder about the ABS system next to the fluid reservoir. It looks like it could be new. I am posting a couple pictures and wonder if anyone can tell whether it is original.

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Also not important, but there is a bar code sticker on the rear quarter window. I was going to scrape it off but I am also wondering if it is original. post-89098-14314310855_thumb.jpg

post-89098-143143108462_thumb.jpg

post-89098-143143108496_thumb.jpg

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I have an 89 8v with 9,500 miles. Because of the age I know I should change the brake hoses and probably flush out the brake system. The brakes seem to work fine but I wonder about the ABS system next to the fluid reservoir. It looks like it could be new. I am posting a couple pictures and wonder if anyone can tell whether it is original.

.[ATTACH=CONFIG]308517[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]308519[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]308520[/ATTACH]

Also not important, but there is a bar code sticker on the rear quarter window. I was going to scrape it off but I am also wondering if it is original. [ATTACH=CONFIG]308521[/ATTACH]

The accumulator could be original or as late as 98, use inspection mirror to look for manufacture date to know for sure. Do brake pedal tap test, don't start car, turn key on, after brake pump stops running lightly and quickly tap the brake pedal, if the pump starts running between 10 to 15 pumps start shopping for new accumulator, less than 7 replace now.

Couldn't enlarge photo to read the bar code, could be factory, but it looks more like ID sticker for gated community.

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  • 2 weeks later...

While on the subject of ABS systems and as the former AC Delco source for the accumulators has disappeared, I would mention that several Reatta owners have recently very successfully used the Hydac accumulator sold by Spinningwheels-sc in Florida.  Spinningwheels has been selling this Hydac accumulator since around 2010 - unfortunately as of this moment they are out of stock but they do have an order due in any day now.  Their selling price is $135 plus shipping which runs around $15.00 or so for a total cost of around $150.00.  www.spinningwheels-sc.com.

 

There has been previous discussion on this Forum about a certain WABCO ABS accumulator that is compatible with the TEVES Mark II unit used on the TCs and the Buick Reatta.  Has anyone actually used this brand of accumulator?

 

Thanks.

 

Kingsley

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  • 1 month later...

Digger,

 

Pump runs 20 to 30 seconds after ignition is turned on. Could this be anything but the accumulator? Four or 5 taps start the pump again. If I have to replace it , do you know if the Hydac unit is suitable?

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Digger,

 

Pump runs 20 to 30 seconds after ignition is turned on. Could this be anything but the accumulator? Four or 5 taps start the pump again. If I have to replace it , do you know if the Hydac unit is suitable?

From what you write here, it would seem that your system is working correctly. The pump will run as you wrote after the system has bled down.

With 9,500 miles on an 89, this indicates that you do not drive this car but rarely. 

You should thoroughly flush the entire hydraulic system though. Your car is in dire need of that. Use only new, from a sealed container, DOT3 brake fluid.

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Digger,

 

Pump runs 20 to 30 seconds after ignition is turned on. Could this be anything but the accumulator? Four or 5 taps start the pump again. If I have to replace it , do you know if the Hydac unit is suitable?

For your question on the Hydac sold by Spinningwheels the answer is Yes, it will work. Only downside of the Hydac is that it's a nut free unit, it will snug down tight with a cheap oil filter strap whench, getting it off means buying a tool or using a big pipe whench. If you should buy one, please get all the manufacturs numbers from the unit before you put it in the car.

AND

Bufore you buy anything do like Hemi says and bleed your brakes. 30 seconds of pump run on a car thats sat for a couple of minutes is one thing, car thats been sitting a couple of days to a couple of weeks, 20 to 30 seconds of pump is pretty much normal.

Tapping the brakes is the shade tree test and and how quick and hard we tap will make a difference in how many taps we get before the pump kicks in. If you are looking for the rear brake lights to get good and bright, your single tap could be equil to two or three of my taps.  Bleed first, tap lite and quick, then consider the Hydac and the Wabco as good replacement options. The Wabco does have a grab nut at the bottom making it easier to remove when the time comes, but you will need to add a ring washer or grind a bit of a taper into the bottom of the nut to make it sit right and tight.

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Thanks Hemi and Digger!  I recently replaced all the brake hoses and flushed the brake fluid and replaced with new DOT 3 fluid from unopened containers.  I was not too sure that I got all of the air so I bled them again a few days later thinking that air might cause the pump to run too long.  (Ended up using four large bottles of brake fluid.)

 

At a car cruise this week a TC owner said that failure of the Teves will not cause catastrophic brake failure and a post on this site said that the pedal effort increases over time. Do you agree?

 

I bought the car last September with 9,500 miles on it and then went South for the Winter.  Since May I have put 300 miles on it.  

 

I need to look at Hemi's instruction for the Teves removal and consider that.  

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Except for the irritating yellow light that means you will need to pump the brakes in a panic stop on wet and slippery pavement, ABS loss is not a catastrophic failure.

 

I had replaced my accumulator a few months before the wire wiggled loose from the pump relay and my experience was a little vibration in the brake peddle that made me look to the ABS light and see that it had come on, couple more stops and the red brake light came on and the car was still stopping with just a hair bit more foot pressure to the peddle, with that I kept my foot ready at the E brake just in case while I drove the few miles home through six stop lights and slowing for four turns. I was feeling really confident thinking this isn't my idea bad brakes, as I punched the door opener butten when I pulled into the driveway. All I can say is, I'm glad I had the door open when I pulled into the driveway.

 

People with private water wells will understand that an accumulator is just a good old pressure storage tank. With pressure in the tank water comes out of the spiggot whether the pump is running or not. Failure of the accumulator will not cause catastrophic failure, running with a weak accumulator will help to create a condition that can lead to that kind of failure and should you loose power to your pump, a good accumulator will give you all the brake pressure you need to survive that inconvenient experience. When it comes to stopping; our old cars aren't a whole lot different than the new ones. Our actuators move about the same amount of fluid as a small bore master cylinder. When you loose your brake pressure reserve it takes more than a couple hard brake peddle stabs to build the pressure necessary to stop a car going 60 and if you don't have room to get the job done, you're going to hit something.

 

If you're tapping the peddle the same way I do and you're only getting 5 taps before the pump turns on, it's time for a new accumulator. Considering what it cost to replace headlights and grill, $150 for this part is a couple hunderd dollars less than your insurance deductable for the rest. The Hydac will spin on easy, bleed the brakes and you should be good for 7 to 10 years before you need to think about buying the tool that makes it as easy to remove as it was to install.

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