Fixing brakes of 1928 Chrysler

[Guest]

Have 1928 4-dr sedan Chrysler that has been sitting for about 8 years. None of the brakes worked at first. After bleeding each of the lines, we got fluid to all four wheels, but only the two back brake-pistons expand when we press the brake pedal. Have the front two cylinders locked up permanently or is there something else we can check? Dad and I are strictly amateurs at this!

[ply33]

Since you needed to bleed the system it sounds like there was a leak somewhere. It also sounds like the front cylinders are frozen.<P>Were this my car, I would take this as a sign that I needed to fully disassemble all of the brake hydraulic components and rebuild them. Also, closely inspect ALL the brake tubing. If they are original then there is a good chance that they are rusted to the point of being unsafe.

[RoadsterRich]

I agree on checking all of the components of the brake system. The last thing you want is for your brakes to fail you. Both of my front cylinders are frozen. There are several companies that rebuild them, I have heard both praise and complaints on most of them. I have narrowed it down to two, but have yet to choose which I plan to use.<P>From what I have seen odds are if the brake lines are original on a 1928 Chrysler they are brass (copper?) lines. Not likely to rust, but still prone to failures. Mine has a hairline split where they run along the differential housing at the back. There are some excellent threads debating the meritt of replacing brake lines here on the forums. It seems to be a passionate topic.<P>Good luck on the brakes!<P>Rich

[56Roadmaster]

I agree,<BR> Since the car has bee sitting so long the brakes should be completely gone through. You may have to have the wheel cylinders resleeved (had to do this on '29 model 75 and 28 Ply currently in the shop) good news is the complete master cylinder overhaul kit is available through NAPA kit #1 piston cups and boots are available too. <BR> I am willing to bet without a doubt you have corrosion set up in the wheel cylinders which has caused them to stick/leak.<BR> Along the lines of what Roadster Rich said check also the flare nuts (cone shaped brass nuts) which connect the lines I have had these crack as well. <BR> Chrylser Lockheed brakes are a very simple system, if you have the owners manual the give a good description and show the line layout.

[Guest]

Thanks for all the insights. I crawled underneath the car and traced the lines and didn't see a leak anywhere. Fluid level seems to be pretty contant, too. Corosion in the cylinders sounds the most likely. Funny that's it's just the front two - there's no real differentiation between front and back brakes in terms of lines or equipment. I'll try find one of these kits - where's the best place to find them?

[ply33]

The last time I got brake parts for my 1933 Plymouth I did it at a local brake supply company. Any good (locally owned & managed) auto supply store or most NAPA stores should be able to get you the seals, boots, etc. that are part of a standard rebuild kit. You should bring along your originals to match.<p>[ 08-14-2002: Message edited by: ply33 ]

[Guest]

1928 was the last of the external contracting brakes, although I think the Imperials had internals in '28.

[Guest]

I posted a 29 Chrysler brake question a couple days ago that you may be able to help me with. It was in reference to the placement of the shoes. On your 28 are the back linings shorter? If so is the most of the lining to the top or bottom? I am refering to individual wheels not the rear axel. Thanks

[Guest antiquepa]

the 28 brake linings are one solid linning that wrap around the outside of the drum, i have a 28 model 52, so they must differ from a 29.

[Guest antiquepa]

i have a 28 model 52 4door sedan that i restored about 5 years ago, i had all 4 wheel cyl. resleeved and my brakes work great. at the time it cost about $50,00 a wheel. i couldn;t find cyl. for my 28 so the next best is to sleeve th

em, u can still get the rubber kits. i had stainless steel sleves installed. as far as the lines go, mine are original copper, u can replace the lines if necessary but don;t throw away the ends., they must have a special thread to fit the wheel cyl. the new fitting will not fit the wheel cyl.

[HarryJ]

Anonymous.....I agree with everyone else, I would rebuild the entire system and double check my work. What series is this Chyrsler...52...62...72...or80?