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pyasher

Trailer purchase question

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I am considering purchasing a car trailer so when I retire next year I can haul my cars and others (purchases) around. I was considering an open aluminum trailer. Any recommendations on a brand of trailer? Should I purchase an enclosed or open trailer? I do not want to pay more than $7,000 for a trailer. Your opinions appreciated!

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This is not an easy question to answer.

A lot of it depends on what you plan on doing with the trailer (Local or long distance shows), what you are going to be hauling (brass/nickel/ prewar-post war), and most important what you are going to use as a tow vehicle.

I started out with an enclosed trailer and eventually added an open trailer so now I have both. Usually ends up taking the old truck in the enclosed trailer and the open trailer for towing everything else like parts cars, kids cars, parts, and the list goes on that I do not want to put in the enclosed trailer.

Just some of my thoughts and experience. I know I am not the only one in this position.

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Here is one on Craig list..

https://grandisland.craigslist.org/snd/4950192461.html

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/rvs/4936319231.html

No price..

What cars do you have? That may help... or location..

I need to install a winch in my car trailer.

Check your state. I think you need to have air brakes or Electric Brake on them now...

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)

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Thanks for the reply Larry and Nick,

I am located in Columbus Ohio and have a 67 Corvette, 73 Alfa Spider and a 72 Chevelle Wagon. My current truck is a 01 S-10 but I plan to purchase a F-150. I mostly drive my cars but would like to attend local auctions and travel out west to purchase cars, get them running good - etc and sell them. The cars I am interested in are 60s and early 70s. I do not want to buy the wrong trailer - I have in the past built shops that were too small and not tall enough. Will a 1/2 ton truck pull an enclosed trailer safely? Is there much of a difference in gas millage with a closed trailer? The enclosed trailer in Phoenix looks pretty nice!

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I am considering purchasing a car trailer so when I retire next year I can haul my cars and others (purchases) around. I was considering an open aluminum trailer. Any recommendations on a brand of trailer? Should I purchase an enclosed or open trailer? I do not want to pay more than $7,000 for a trailer. Your opinions appreciated!

Buy a new trailer ...

I am having one built now - it will be ready in a couple weeks.

Give me a call - I will give you a recommendation ....

Jim

(260) 804-6695

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I have a 24' enclosed trailer and a 24' open trailer - they are basically identical as far as axles, tie downs, etc. - except one is enclsoed obviously. Both have their particulars pros and cons. If I go to a local show and no threat of rain, I use the open trailer. I use the enclosed for shows that require longer trip or over night stay.

If I could only have one, it would be the enclosed. Great for weather protection and security overnight.

Bob

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Buy a new trailer ...

I am having one built now - it will be ready in a couple weeks.

Give me a call - I will give you a recommendation ....

Jim

(260) 804-6695

This is a VERY EXCELLENT piece of advice.

Both of my trailers were new.

On many trailers they only have 3500 pound axles and some with brakes on one axle only.

I looked at used trailers prior to buying my trailers and the common thread was they all seemed to need brakes, tires, rewiring, and the list goes on.

I put 5,000 pound axles on my enclosed trailer and brakes on both axles.

I am some what of a safety person and I know if you can not stop it, you are immediately in trouble. Some states require brakes on both axles, but not all.

Also get a very good brake controller for your truck.

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A 150 should not tow a 24 foot box. You need a 250 heavy duty for safety.

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Guest

You won't be happy pulling a 24 ft enclosed trailer with an F150, and it won't be very safe either. I have owned several ( and currently own one) 24ft enclosed trailers. I currently haul a corvette or a 31 Cadillac sedan, which is a heavy old chunk of iron. I went through several gas F250's and Chevy 2500's through the years, and they did an acceptable, but not stellar job. Several years ago I bought a 2002 F350 diesel 4X4 dually with the 7.3 engine. I am here to tell you there is NO comparison. The pulling power of the diesel is unreal. It ACCELERATES UP steep hills if you want to. It cracks me up on the interstate. With a big hill/mountain ahead, you see the cars behind you jump over into the passing lane way back. They just KNOW you will be slowing down.:) When you hold 70-75 going up the hill, you see them back there on your corner looking at their speedometer - it just doesn't compute. I don't advocate pulling that fast, just trying to highlight the capabilities of these trucks in an amusing way. Again, a gas F250/2500 would be working hard, and an F150 would probably be looking for a new transmission soon. Before you think "big bucks" for a diesel dually, I bought mine for $15,000 from the original owner with 74,000 miles on it. It now has about 96,000 miles on it. The key is that these 7.3L diesel engines have a super reputation. They were built for Ford by International. Over 300,000 miles is very common, and I personally know of several that are still doing fine at over 400,000. The dual rear wheels make a HUGE difference as far as stability/sway control is concerned in high winds or when being passed by tractor/trailers. I used a sway control on my F250/2500's, and still do on the F350, but I do see a vast improvement in this regard.

On the enclosed trailer, be sure to get an "escape door" on the driver's side. This makes egress from your car MUCH easier, as the door of the hauled vehicle can extend partially through the open escape door when you are trying to get out of the car. An electric winch is a great thing to have in the trailer when hauling or driving antique cars around. HOW would I know THAT?;) Hope this gives you some ideas. Be safe.

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Thanks for all the advice guys.

Sounds like I should buy a new enclosed trailer and make sure it has brakes on both axles.

Also sounds like I would need a F 250 to pull a 24' trailer.

What about a 20' box - still need a 3/4 ton truck?

Jim I will give you a call - thanks...

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31 Caddy - I was hoping to avoid a dually diesel - not that I would not love one. It does give me food for thought.

Thanks for the advice...

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Thanks for all the advice guys.

Sounds like I should buy a new enclosed trailer and make sure it has brakes on both axles.

Also sounds like I would need a F 250 to pull a 24' trailer.

What about a 20' box - still need a 3/4 ton truck?

Jim I will give you a call - thanks...

You will want the 24 ft and appreciate the extra room for loading, unloading, and tying down, etc.

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If you only have a set amount to spend, spend more of it on a larger truck and less on the trailer. We currently run 2 Dodge Cummins diesels and absolutely love them. 14 mpg pulling a 24' enclosed trailer with a heavy antique car aboard.

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If you only have a set amount to spend, spend more of it on a larger truck and less on the trailer. We currently run 2 Dodge Cummins diesels and absolutely love them. 14 mpg pulling a 24' enclosed trailer with a heavy antique car aboard.

I think I need to rethink my strategy, I was going to buy a truck and use it for my primary transportation. Now I may just have a truck dedicated to hauling and drive a car. I have a 2001 S 10 setting in the driveway - purchased new with only 100K on it - we only use it when we need a truck - daily driver is a 2015 Outback...

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We towed with an F150 stick shift, a 6 cylinder even, for many years when we couldn't afford anything bigger. It can be done but we never felt safe when pulling an enclosed trailer with a car aboard. Sort of a tail wagging the dog situation.

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I think I need to rethink my strategy, I was going to buy a truck and use it for my primary transportation. Now I may just have a truck dedicated to hauling and drive a car. I have a 2001 S 10 setting in the driveway - purchased new with only 100K on it - we only use it when we need a truck - daily driver is a 2015 Outback...

Don't know where you live or how urban a setting but around here there's about as many daily driver PU's as cars. Lots of guys buy crew or extended cab trucks because they are daily drivers..............Bob

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We live in the country and my intention was to drive a crew cab F-150 - not a F-250 - not with dual rear wheels. I need to go drive one and consider all the pros and cons. Thanks for the input...

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Don't know where you live or how urban a setting but around here there's about as many daily driver PU's as cars. Lots of guys buy crew or extended cab trucks because they are daily drivers..............Bob

That's what I've got.

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Towing every day in all types of weather ....

A half ton p/u truck is not a suitable tow vehicle for a car hauler trailer

Personally I believe a one ton dually is the ticket because it affords a stable heavy tow platform

But - depending on how far you need to drive I suppopse a 3/4 ton p/u truck would do the job

My new trailer is from Colony Cargo Trailers - Tim or Barry are both great to deal with

@ http://www.colonycargo.com/

I was seriously considering a Husky Trailer - they are in Florida ...

But - I got close to buying & the salesman I was dealing with just blew me off & did not return my phone calls ....

That is an ongoing issue with them - poor customer service

Jim

Edited by Trulyvintage (see edit history)

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I used to use a Ford F150 extra cab 2wd to pull a 16ft car hauler and a 40 hp tractor with front loader. Notice I say USED to use a Ford F150, trans went out after a dozen or so 100 mile trips. You cant beat the Power-strokes for power and endurance.

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My new trailer is from Colony Cargo Trailers - Tim or Barry are both great to deal with

@ http://www.colonycargo.com/

Jim

Jim I visited the site and they have a 20' trailer for less than $6,000. I was under the impression you had to spend way more than that to get a good trailer. It does however have brakes on both axles and 5,000 pound axles...

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Guest
You will want the 24 ft and appreciate the extra room for loading, unloading, and tying down, etc.

Heed Larry's advice. You need some room in front of the car, (and to a lesser degree behind it also) to give you some room to lay down and connect the tie downs and for the other inevitable items like tools, chairs, your overnight bags, spare tires ( if not mounted on external brackets) etc. I would urge you to consider a used 24ft trailer purchased from a private owner. Keep checking craigslist, etc. They usually don't last long, but you can find them. They may have already had winches, extra tie downs, etc installed. Let the original buyer eat the initial depreciation, and also avoid paying sales tax.

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That was my plan for the truck and the trailer...

Are their certain trailer manufactures to stay away from or certain manufactures you recommend?

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I have towed all over the USA. Good equipment is cheap. Always go with the best you can afford. If you haul the big iron, you need to go with the best, or your life is in danger, and it's very easy to wreck you car. I have been suffering LOTS of tire failure the last two years. I used engineering and a few bucks to solve the problem. It just arrived yesterday. This rig tows like a dream with the triple wide spread set up. My 2000 F 350 power stroke I bought new has only 80 k on the clock. The trailer is 36 foot V nose. It is BIG! Has an extra foot of height. I wish I bought this 5 years ago!

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post-31625-143143059944_thumb.jpg

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)

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And like Larry, I also have a good open trailer. It seems once you have one you cant live without it. Remember not to over load the trailer or tow vehicle. Be safe! Ed

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