Guest smspaul Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) What is the carb number from the 1956 engine?It's a Carter but can't make out the numbers. :/The guy that has it wants $700 for it as a rebuildable motor & tranny. I'm thinking that's pretty steep. Even if it's only good for parts. Your thoughts? Edited March 18, 2015 by smspaul (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 There were two 4 barrel carbs used in 56's. A Carter 2347 and Rochester 4GC, the Carter numbers should be on a brass triangular tag off of one of the top mounting screws. The best way to tell if it is a 56 intake is there will heat passages in the bottom flat surface of the carburetor base as well as passages in the intake manifold. Looks like a metal eatin worm got between the two in other words. How close is that engine and tranny, that can mean something in figuring worth to yourself. $700 for the motor and tran ain't too bad, but I don't think the tranny would match up with your 55, too long? I understand he is saying rebuildable, but how long has the engine been sitting, can it be cranked for testing. What all comes with. A good breather is worth a pretty penny. If it is complete ie includes carb, generator, starter and runs it should be worth $400. But be prepared when you get into cost of a complete rebuild. If you have time, you may want to wait it out and find a good low mileage rebuilt engine. I would still recommend looking for a 56. Here's one on the other side of the country from you I've been watching and the guy sounds full of it but just to give you an idea of what some folks think they're worth. http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/4917706779.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest smspaul Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) There were two 4 barrel carbs used in 56's. A Carter 2347 and Rochester 4GC, the Carter numbers should be on a brass triangular tag off of one of the top mounting screws. The best way to tell if it is a 56 intake is there will heat passages in the bottom flat surface of the carburetor base as well as passages in the intake manifold. Looks like a metal eatin worm got between the two in other words. Actually they changed the intake part-way through 1955 so you have an early/late '55 which the late is like you described with the 'worm-track' heat passage.How close is that engine and tranny, that can mean something in figuring worth to yourself. $700 for the motor and tran ain't too bad, but I don't think the tranny would match up with your 55, too long? I understand he is saying rebuildable, but how long has the engine been sitting, can it be cranked for testing. What all comes with. A good breather is worth a pretty penny. If it is complete ie includes carb, generator, starter and runs it should be worth $400. But be prepared when you get into cost of a complete rebuild. If you have time, you may want to wait it out and find a good low mileage rebuilt engine. I would still recommend looking for a 56. Ya, I'll probably wait it out and pass on this one. Afterall, I still haven't really worked on freeing up the engine in the Super yet and already have parts galore and 3 working tranny's. It's about an hour 1/2 away and he doesn't want to do the effort of hooking up cables and a battery to test the compression. I'd have to drive up and do that. It's got all the basic block, heads, covers, carb and starter. No breathers present or accessories looks like.Here's one on the other side of the country from you I've been watching and the guy sounds full of it but just to give you an idea of what some folks think they're worth. http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/4917706779.htmlWow, ya, that's a sales speech if I ever heard one! LOL! Edited March 19, 2015 by smspaul (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest smspaul Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Update & Question: So, I've got the seized 322 in the '55 Super stripped down and ready to pull. So far everything is looking ok by visual inspection. Lifters, cam, rockers and lifters are gummed up pretty good, however, no noticeable extreme wear but I'll know more once I get it out and torn down and do some measurements. I can't get the heads off to take a look at the pistons yet until I'm able to get the exhaust crossover out of the way and I'm really going to have to do some work on those rusted bolts where I have more room.Now, I figure I'll save myself some time and ask, Should I pull the engine and the tranny together? Drop the tranny then pull the engine? or can I leave the tranny in place and just pull the engine? Everything except the tranny is loose and ready to go.Oh, and how the heck do I get that little wire connection for the temp sensor out of the head without damaging it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 If the engine is still seized, pulling both together is the only way. See the service manual for how the torque converter is attached and removed from the transmission. That is not a wire on the temp sensor...it is a capillary tube connected to an ether filled bulb in the head. Penetrating oil will help release the nut that clamps the bulb in the head. Soaking in mild acid will help release the bulb. (Sounds easy if you say it real fast ). If you break it you will be in for a painful and expensive removal of the gauge from the cluster and rebuild.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest smspaul Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks! So what "mild acid" do you recommend? I have the nut loose but the bulb is stuck good and holding everything up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Preferably phosphoric acid based lime remover like Sanivac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest smspaul Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Finally got the temp sensor bulb loose. That took a lot of careful patience, then everything else seemed to click right along and got the engine pulled, tranny separated, heads removed and pistons pulled. (one completely destroyed). The block and crank do look good though so that's a relief. The timing chain cover cost me a pocket full of quarters in the 'swear jar' but finally got it broke loose. Once I removed that I was a bit confused about the timing marks ...until I consulted the shop manual and it started to make more sense. (kinda). The cam and crank feel very solid with no play at all and turn very smooth. The sprockets look good as well but I'm startled that the chain is so loose. Is that normal for wear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tommyduncan Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I'm a little late to this party...Nice Super! I recently bought one in similar condition. I even have a small dent in the same place on the front fender.I'm curious where the rest of that piston went? At least you have plenty of parts laying around. Hope you are right about the block being good. Kinda looks like there was enough piston left to keep the rod from destroying it.So what are your build plans? That sure is a solid start! If you don't plan on using those dropped uprights let me know. I'm looking for a set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) Regarding block and cylinder head "casting numbers", the same casting numbers can be used over many model years so long as all that's needed to make them work is a "machining operation" to the basic casting, at least in Chevy "stuff".I know that in the world of small block Chevy V-8s, there is ALSO a cast date code on the block flange between the distributor location and the top of where the bellhousing mounting flange is. Format is "letter for month", followed by "day of month number", and "last digit of the year cast". Unless you know it's there, as it's about the size of my little finger nail, it can easily be overlooked . . . more so if there's any accumulation of "stuff" on top of it. As that is an additional piece to the basic block mold, there can be a very fine oblong circle of casting flash around the date code. Best seen when the block comes out of the vat tank, rinsed, and is being blown dry. Similarly, similar date casting dates are on the cylinder heads, between the valve guides. DO any such casting dates appear on Buick nailhead engine blocks, heads, intake manifolds, etc.?? If so, it might help with the "what model year" determination?Just curious,NTX5467 Edited April 12, 2015 by NTX5467 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest smspaul Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I'm a little late to this party...Nice Super! I recently bought one in similar condition. I even have a small dent in the same place on the front fender.I'm curious where the rest of that piston went? At least you have plenty of parts laying around. Hope you are right about the block being good. Kinda looks like there was enough piston left to keep the rod from destroying it.So what are your build plans? That sure is a solid start! If you don't plan on using those dropped uprights let me know. I'm looking for a set.So, here's the progress update. The block from the super and many of the parts are excellent so I'm working on the rebuild on that. (the busted up cylinder is my fault...long story) Just pulled the engine from the Century which has a hole punched in the side of the block and a broken rocker arm. It's interesting that the rocker arm is busted but the rod is nearly perfectly straight still. I'm excited to tear this down in the next couple of days to see what caused all this damage. I'll salvage usable parts from this and scrap the block. The running engine and tranny in the rolling chassis still has a bit of blue smoke so before putting it in the Century I'm going to pull the heads and pistons, change out the rings, do measurements and test the heads. It purrs wonderfully except for the burning oil bit so I think it's just the oil rings haven't loosened up after sitting for a few years as there is decent compression. Once the Century is up and running good I'll put that one up for sale and finish the Super for me. :-)Oh, and sorry, I'm using the dropped uprights and knee action shocks off of the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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