painting repairing vinyl

[Guest]

Do the vinyl repair kits I see advertised really work? I have a chance to buy a good dash but it is the wrong color. Does vinyl paint really work? Any advise on type of product to buy?

[ronbarn]

I painted the vinyl dash of my '61 Cadillac with a paint specified for vinyl applications and ten years later it still looks good.

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

I too have used it successfully before but one word of caution.... DON'T buy some spray can from the discount auto parts store! <BR>Go to an autobody supply store and purchase a professional grade dye. They can also supply the suggested cleaner or prep solvent.

[ronbarn]

Good point Ron - Our positive comments were not meant to cover all advetised products. I got a professional grade product from a good body paint supplier. I cannot speak for the spray cans sold at chain stores.

[Guest]

Thanks so much for the advise. I'm off to an auto supply house. What about the repair kits?

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

All I can say is that I used a spraycan vinyl "paint" once and it was a waste of time and money... the finish started wearing off in no time. The next project that required changing vinyl colors was done with a professional product and it worked and lasted fine! Remember to pay close attention to the cleaning and prepping of the item. No paint or dye can be expected to work on a dirty or improperly prepared surface. <BR> I have heard that it is very difficult (if not impossible) to change a very dark color to a very light color.<BR> As far as the repair kits for fixing rips or holes, I've never used one and have my doubts as to how well they work. <p>[ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: fordee9r ]

[Guest]

I've used the repair kits that include waxed textured paper inserts plus various color vinyl pastes that you apply then iron on.<P>The results were less than spectacular. <P>What I do now is take methyl ethyl ketone and melt pieces of the color vinyl in question in the liquid. Once I have a nice thick soup (how thick depends on the size of repair) I apply the goop and then apply the textured wax paper (from the kit) over top, allow to dry at least 24 hours.<P>Once dry I remove the textured wax paper carefully and usually the repair is pretty convincing (including the texture). If you are filling a crack, fill the crack with goop till nearly level and let dry before attempting the texturing.<P>My expierience has been the pastes in the kit never really stick and you have a very visible edge. With methyl ethyl ketone the underlying vinyl melts into the repair and since you use the same vinyl color in the mix, the color matches exactly. <P>I harvest pieces of matching color vinyl from under dashboards, seats etc. anywhere you can find extra vinyl in an inconspicuous place. Remember to remove the cloth backing if your donor vinyl is from a seat. Even old cracking vinyl will work.<P>Metyl ethyl ketone is a trade name for a common solvent that evaporates like alcohol with the solvent action of paint thinner. This same thickened liquid is used to repair water beds etc. Clear vinyl repair liquids sold everywhere are basically this chemical. Look for the abbreviation MEK in the ingrediant list.<P>Remember it dries as fast as alchohol so you have to work fast when applying it. Finding the pure thin liquid can be hard nowadays due to it being a carcinogen (yikes!). I used to use gallons of it at a place where we repaired helicopter blades, it takes laquer paint off like mad so be careful. <P>We used to immerse entire Bell 204-206 blades in the stuff to remove the laquer paint (shudder).<P>If you are careful and with practice the repair is hard to spot unless you know where the repair was done.