Front-end re-build

[ply33]

I bet that somebody on the <A HREF="http://www.p15-d24.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.p15-d24.com/</A> web site forum could help with this question....

[John N. Packard]

Frank,<BR> I just completed a rebuild of the suspension on my '54 Packard Patrician. I did not have any of the tools specified in the shop manual. It would have helped to have a bench press. I took my time and finally figured it all out. Removing the old bushing was difficult; but I finally did it. Did the alignment (camber, caster, toe-in) myself using inexpensive gauges. The car handles beautifully. The pros out there will probably shudder; but I did it! <BR>jnp

[Guest De Soto Frank]

Okay, I'll try this one again:<P>1941-1954 Chrysler Corp independant front suspension: how should one go about installing new inner & outer control arm bushings?<P>The factory shop manuals all show some special tools used to "spread" the ends of arms slightly, and presumably establish proper pre-load on the new bushings as they're installed.<P>Has anyone else gone through this exercise?<BR>Am I needlessly making myself crazy over these oddball tools and gauges ?<BR>Can I perform this job without the "factory tools"?<P>Would like to benefit from someone elses "hard-earned" knowledge!<P>Thanks!

[Guest]

Frank:<P>Last year did a total new front end on my 48 Packard and I am assuming you are talking about the inner lower control arm bushings. Well, I did not use the spreader, torqued them to spec and then measured for see if they were within tolerance. Guess what? They did not move at all. Just be sure to measure before and after to compare with specs.<p>[ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: Chris NJ ]

[Guest]

I use two solid wires stretched between a set of jack stands on either side of the car. Once you get them parallel you can measure with a vernier caliper from the wire to the rim at the front and back, this will give you your toe. I use a vertical plumb bob hanging in a can of 90WT hypoid oil for the camber. <P>Works like a charm and gives very accurate results if done properly. I use armature winding wire for the parallel wires. Make sure you tension the wires well and have a heavy enough plumb. Make sure your parallel wires are at the axle centerline.<P>I regularly set the toe on my 81 RX7 GT3 car to +,- 0.005" using this method. Also great for spotting out of line rear axles etc. My steering wheel ends up dead straight evry time doing alignments this way, if it's not afterward you can bet you have worn components or deflecting parts on the car somewhere. Beats a laser all to hell.