Guest old crank Posted January 20, 2002 Posted January 20, 2002 I've removed the gas tank from the car and would like to know what the best way to clean and seal the inside of the tank would be? The tank hasn't had anything in it for at least 30 years, maybe 40. Its completely dry and is in real good shape; no dents or bruises and appears to have baffles on the inside.
Guest Posted January 20, 2002 Posted January 20, 2002 Why do anything to it? You can create a problem where there is none.<p>[ 01-20-2002: Message edited by: Layden Butler ]
Guest Posted January 20, 2002 Posted January 20, 2002 If you feel it necessary to try and remove any rust or scale from the inside of the tank, my method has been to place either lengths of chain or sharp edged gravel [like crushed granite, not river stone] in the tank and shake vigerously and well. I have used both methods and they seem to work equally well. After removing the cleaning material blow out the tank. It doesn't hurt to insert a vacuun hose if you can get one in. Shake the tank with the vacuum on.<P>If it is airtight, forget about using a sealer. If you find you must use a gas tank sealer, <B>BE SURE THAT YOU USE ONE THAT IS ALCOHOL RESISTANT!!!</B>. You may think that you will not use gasahol, but sooner or later some will likely find its way into your tank. You just never know what is in the tanks at the station. Experience speaking. ~ hvs
ronbarn Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 Old Crank, Are you THE MAN in Nashville that owns the old Marathon Building? Several of us visited last year. Come on some time and tell us more about the Marathon progress.<P>I agree with hvs comments. Clean it our best you can and if you think it needs sealer, use the good stuff that is alcohol resistant.
gossjh Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 Old residues in a tank can come loose with new gas in the tank whether gasahol or not. A good radiator repair shop can clean a tank fairly well. They may tell you that they can not get it all cleaned out due to the baffles unless they disassmble it. Then you must decide if you need to go to that extent. They can unsolder the ends to gain access. The local shop here that I use always gives me all kinds of warnings that they may have problems, but they always seem to do a good job. They even have returned Model A tanks with the paint still good enough to replace as is. I would rather take my chances on a so so cleaning job than on coatings that might end up in my engine leaving a coating on valves, or lifting loose in the tank. Good luck,<BR>Joe Goss
Guest old crank Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 Gentlemen<BR>Thanks for the advice. We are still undecided, even though we think Howards idea is the best. With the baffles in the tank and the baffles having 3/4" diameter holes, putting some type of media in the tank for shaking purposes, the media may get trapped behind the baffles. However, we may try the chain and vacuum approach.<P>No Ron, I'm not from Nashville. That would be Barry Walker. We are Don and Micky Bohne from Houston, fellow judges, formerly of Wellsville NY. We've had our Marathon for about 15 years. Its a model K-20. Barry has a similar one he got from an estate in upper NY and a newer model I believe he got out of Texas. We have just started the restoration, having just finished a '14 Metz. We'll gladly keep you informed of our progress. <P>Thanks again.
ronbarn Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 Thanks Don, I was thinking that Nashville had found all of the Marathons. This is exciting. Remind me to tell you about the Herff-Brooks which was the successor to the Marathon. Keep in touch and let us know the progress. See you on the judging field. Ron
Bill Stoneberg Posted January 21, 2002 Posted January 21, 2002 Old Crank,<BR>If you are in Houston, you may want to give Westside Radiator a call if you feel the need to really clean the tank out.<BR>They have boiled one out for me and they can also do the "RENU" process if so desired.<BR>Good Luck.
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