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WTB: Supplement to 1926-1929 Pontiac-Oakland Service Manual


Guest rjones
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As the title says, I would like to buy the Supplement to the 1926-1929 Pontiac-Oakland Service Manual. Reprint or original. Thanks!

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I am not sure if there ever was a Supplement to the 1926-1929 Pontiac-Oakland Shop Manual. I think/thought I had one of each of the manuals that GM produced for Pontiac from 1926 to 1934(including "Mechanical Features", "Care and Operation", " Instructions", "Reference Book" and about 16 other titles) but have never seen a Supplement to the one you ask about. In My books I have a 1930 Shop Manual and a 1930-31 Shop Manual. The 30-31 manual is just the 1930 manual with a very short supplement at the end of each section. Please let us know if you find what you are looking for.

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Tinindian, I meant to call carbking today and forgot, he has one listed and Faxon literature has one listed but not in stock. I didn't know that there was one either but knew that there are many items on my '29 that aren't covered in the 26-29 Service Manual. A case in point would be the brakes. There are no pictures or references to the internal four-wheel brakes that are on my '29. I will call carbking next week and see what it is and what it covers. I also found out that there were several supplements to the Fisher Body Manual and they can be seen for free at www.1929buick.com. What I really need right now is a pic of the rear end at the hub and at the pinion with a parts list. I'm pretty sure that some parts in my hub aren't assembled correctly and I think I'm missing a couple of pieces between the yoke and the bearing at the pinion.

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Your brakes are "Midland Steeldraulic". Excellent brakes also used on 31/32 8cyl Auburn, DeVaux, Hupmobile after 1927, Some 1928 Dodges, 28 (late)-32 Pontiac, Durant, some Nash after 1929, 1929 GMC T-11, Oakland 28-32, 34 Studebaker Dictator and Graham Trucks 28-29. If you do a google search there is lots of information. I have ten or twelve books with instructions. GM's instructions in their shop manual are probably the poorest illustrated. There often are several items on ebay if you do a searce under "midland steeldraulic". None right now but three last week. One was a big wall size chart. Send me a PM and I can send you one of my magazines with a brake article in it. If it works for you then you can pay me for the postage.

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I've got the brakes down pretty good. Mine are the steeldraulic but not the ones shown in the service manual. Mine are the four wheel internal and the manual shows the four wheel external. My problem at the hub is that someone tried to fit a neoprene type seal that was the wrong size. They used copper shim around it to hold it in place. This spaced the seal and the hub outboard too far and the hub would not tighten on the taper of the axle. My question is what the bearing outer race looks like and does it hold the seal also? Once you have taken the flange over of the housing does this race pull out to then be able to remove the inner seal? I am remaking the felt seals but how tight should they fit the hub? At the pinion, my spare shows a cupped washer and another sleeve at the pinion nut. I haven't been able to get it apart yet but I know those parts are missing on the car. Right now the yoke on the pinion doesn't touch the seal, so that anything you put in comes out pretty quickly. The service manual has a few pics but I can't tell enough about them to know what I need. That's why I'm hoping to get a few different pics at the hub and the pinion and maybe a listing of the parts.

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The inner race sits on the axle and butts up to the felt of the inner seal. The rear wheel bearing rollers are what holds the inner seal felt retainer in place. If your differential is not all apart you can replace the inner felt and retainer by removing the rear wheel bearing and the inner race. You can then pull the retainer and felt out. The Felt should be a tight fit on the axle. The key thing to keep gear lube from leaking is to not fill the rear end too full (your little finger should just be able to touch the gear lube through the filler hole), and keep the wheel bearing lubricated through the grease fitting on the housing. Do not pump too much grease into the bearing as this pushes the felt inwards and then the gear lube leaks out.

On the pinion there is a felt ring (drive pinion packing) ahead of the double row front bearing, this is held in place by the differential bevel drive pinion packing nut. Between this nut and the yoke is the spiral bevel pinion nut, then there is a tin washer that slides over the pinion to keep the nut from turning and next is your yoke. The illustration in the Care and operation instructions book is the same one as the shop manual. It just needs to be enlarged several times for practical use.

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Thanks again Tinindian! It takes me a while to do anything and I finally have all of the hub apart. I have found several issues to take care of. Someone had tried to make a neoprene inner seal also by taking a neoprene seal and half of the housing for the felt seal and welding them together to have the right diameter and thickness. They did a really good job except again, the seal didn't fit the shaft! So I will need to find 2 inner seals since they cut up the ones I thought were spares. Could you give me a part number and a source for these? I also found at the bottom of where the sheetmetal folds over the outer seal to hold it in, there is a channel, I take to drain any fluid back to the center housing, that when they had folded the metal back there was a hole torn in the channel so that if you cornered or got fluid there it would leak out on the brakes. I will be welding that back up and making sure the channel is open and doesn't leak. On the sheet metal that folds over and holds the seal, it seems to be work hardening and should I heat it to soften it before I fold it back when I put everything back in? Now that I have it apart the pictures in the service manual make a little more sense. It was hard to tell where parts separated and what was made together in all the grease. While I'm asking, do you know of a source for brake drums and what do I need to know about them to get the correct ones? I hope to get to the pinion soon and I'm sure I will have some more questions! Thank you again for all of your help to keep me on track!

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A source would be real difficult. The only possibility I know of would be Ol' Car Bearing. The part number of the complete seal is Victor 49062. The felt itself is sold separately but I don't know the number. I have three complete seals and one felt insert. In 56 years O have needed to replace my seals three times. I suppose at my age and with 500,000 miles on my car I really only need to have two on hand. So If you cannot find them anywhere else I could let you have the felt insert and one complete seal. By the way the felt dimensions are OD 2.42", ID 1.24" and .40" thick.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest rjones

Wanted to update. Carbking let me purchase a copy of his service manual supplement. He has a fantastic library of Oakland and Pontiac literature that he is selling. I am also picking up an illustrated parts book. I have most of my rear axle apart and figured how the seals were made and installed and I have those parts on hand. I was thinking the seal was made differently and was a single unit instead of 3 pieces. I still need to repair where they unrolled the sheetmetal at the outer seal and I need some washers and things at the pinion and I can start putting it back together! Then I can adjust the brakes as I had originally started to do and move up the transmission from there. Thanks for the help and check out the literature that Carbking has!

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