Blue paint

[Rogillio]

I crossed referenced the 1926 DB dark blue to Dearborn Blue. I painted the trunk and back half of my car and it is MUCH darker than the blue on the rest of the car. Any suggestions for getting blue paint?

[30DodgePanel]

Your question may seem simple but it is more complex than one would think.

When trying to color match something from 88 years ago there are many factors that come into play in finding the correct color.

After being in the painting industry all my life you would be shocked at how many people receive the wrong information when matching colors. How exactly did you come to that conclusion and what were your sources of "cross referencing" ?

My first line of questioning with clients over the years has always been:

1. Is the paint original

2. Who was the paint manufacturer

3. What was the base of the product used IE - was it oil, acrylic, was it base coat clear coat, was it a true nitrocellulose lacquer, etc...

(all of these factors can alter a formula even on a minuscule scale in turn changing the color of the final product).

4. What color system was used (color systems have changed with technology over the years and are even now continually changing so you would have to know what system was used)

5. How was the paint mixed (thinners, reducers etc...), was it mixed properly in order to have the correct outcome for color specifications according to the manufacturers original literature.

6. What technique of application was used ( believe it or not this does effect colors ) Every person uses different techniques over the years. Just because we assume one guy used a certain technique years ago doesn't make it a fact and can drastically change the outcome of the final product.

7. Even if you have all the information correct some bases and formulas will change color over time due to UV and storage factors.

And so on....

Do you know if your car was repainted at one time ? That's the first thing I would question...

If it has been repainted at any point then any cross referencing will be useless information unless you know the exact color formula, manufacturer and other relevant criteria that was used for the repaint.

My guess is that it has been repainted at some point and the only way to get an exact match would be for a professional to "eye match" it with wet and dry samples till he finds a match that would be close enough for your approval. OR, you can spend big bucks taking crapshoots till you find a color your happy with.

[Rogillio]

Holy Moley Dave! I had no idea.

The best I can tell, the paint color is NOT original. Based on the serial number of the car, I don't think it was offered in blue. It came in 'forrest green'. I'm not real fond of green and presumably the person who restored it previously didn't care for green either. I made an assumption (yeah, yeah, I know) that they had selected a dark blue off the DB color charts as there were a couple of blues around this time period.

I am not trying for perfect 100 period. I don't plan to show the car and don't really care if is the original color. I had planned to paint the car a little at a time as I had time and inclination so I started at the back where the paint was the worst. I am teaching myself to paint as I go and on thing I learned is that the bondo must be 100% feather'd in or it will show. I say that because I think I am going to 'start over' and spend more time sanding. I might also get a better paint gun.

I will try to post a pix of the car showing the blue it is now. I'd really like this color of blue and would like to stay as close to this as possible. The interior blue on the dash is perfect and does not need painting....so if I can get close enough, I won't need to paint that.

Edited January 11, 2015 by Rogillio (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

With the info you provided here is what I would do if it were me. Keep in mind anyway you turn from here will be costly regardless of which way you go.

If it were me I would just repaint the entire vehicle so it will all be exactly the same without any guess work. If you do decide to repaint only the back half then it may cost you more in the long run.

If you decide not to repaint the entire vehicle then the following methods are options:

Color matching:

You could experiment with changing the colors yourself by purchasing colorants and practicing the art of color matching IF you have leftovers from the previous batch.

Before deciding on buying more paint you could try and purchase colorants in order to lighten the batch you already have with titanium white but keep in mind you have to use the same "BASE" of colorant as the product you are using. In other words if you're using Acrylic you want a colorant that will mix with Acrylics. If you are using Laquer you will want a base of colorant that will mix with that product and so on...

Be aware some colorants advertise "Universal Colorant" implying that they will mix with anything but stay away from those because they have issues like color floatation, incompatibility and so on..

If you decide to experiment with the batch you have you will first need to lighten that batch since you've went to dark with. Start by adding titanium white (not a guarantee it will work). IF the titanium white does lighten it then add some thalo blue to bring it back around to the true color it looks like your trying to achieve. I can tell by the pics that the batch you bought has to much lamp black and that is the reason for the deeper dark tint. If you do decide to experiment with color matching be sure and mix thoroughly mixing for a minimum of half an hour by hand or at least 5 minutes in a professional mixer or 10 minutes minimum with a drill and paddle mixer. Remember adding small amounts of colorant may potentially change the color dramatically faster than expected so it's good to go very slow so you don't cross over and go to dark again which will defeat your purpose.

If your happy with the previously painted lighter blue and simply want to try and pick a color to try again then refer to the following:

1. Remove a previously painted surface whether it's a window frame, visor, door hinge, or something you can match to that your able to remove from the vehicle and move around the shop and/or take it outside in the natural light to compare. Use this item to do any color matching with color charts of your choosing.

2. Compare with color charts until your head is spinning. Drink a six pack of your favorite beverage then go to sleep and think about it till the next day. Repeat for one week and by the end of that week your mind will be so glued into the correct color you will know it when you see it. I'm joking of course but I can't emphasize enough how you need to take your time finding the right color. Look at hundreds/thousands of colors if you have to till your happy with it. Keep in mind color charts are never exact as the outcome (as I'm sure you're aware of by now) but the goal sounds like you want to get as close as possible.

3. Purchase any color in very small amounts for small jobs when adding reducers/thinners or so called "paint stretchers". As you know stretchers will make more product but keep in mind the pigments are diluted so you may get less coverage at that point. 1 quart will easily paint half of that car if you use the same color over color along with the right mixture and the right gun.

4. You mentioned a new paint gun: Sata are the way to go if you have the cash, you can't beat the performance. Again, keep in mind other factors will have a bearing on the outcome. Things such as atomization... Depending on the orifice, air and material mixture settings on the gun and/or what your compressor is set at. These factors will all have an outcome on the finish product.

Good luck, let us know what you decide.

Edited January 11, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[nearchoclatetown]

The DBC's accepted alternate for Dodge Brothers Blue is a Studebaker color. It is Admiral blue from 1957, was only used as a spring pickup color at the end of the year. I have found paint chips at AACA library for it. Problem is MANY of the old colors do not translate to modern paints. Even if you have the color computer matched modern paints do not have the mixing tones to match it exactly.

[R.White]

I don't blame you for having a go at painting your car, Mike. I do as much as I can but it's not a walk in the park as they say. I only use nitro cellulose; safer than two pack and is more forgiving. The disadvantages are that the finish is soft and fades faster. As you have found, prep is everything and you need to use top grade bondo (filler) because it can sink over time. A good high build primer helps a lot. One problem that d.i.y. painters have is micro blistering which is due to moisture. Poor conditions are a contributorary factor but moisture getting past your filter is another. More than one filter is advisable if you don't have dryer because the air from the compressor is saturated.

It's one heck of a learning curve. Be safe!

Ray.

[30DodgePanel]

Problem is MANY of the old colors do not translate to modern paints. Even if you have the color computer matched modern paints do not have the mixing tones to match it exactly.

Correct.

The color systems that I spoke of previously are the reason the tones don't match ANY color charts that were used later. The only way to match any color in any line of painting is by knowing what system was used and then reapplying that same system throughout the entire process as they did originally. That same rule applies in all fields, aircraft, housing, cellphone paints, etc...

Easier just to repaint the entire car Rog. :cool:

[Pete K.]

I think your dark blue looks good anyway.

[juanatejeda]

Take a look at Cooley Blue, Imron by Dupont. Looks really good on out 1927 Dodge Brothers Four Screen.

[Rogillio]

Take a look at Cooley Blue, Imron by Dupont. Looks really good on out 1927 Dodge Brothers Four Screen.

Cany you you pleast post a picture?

[30DodgePanel]

Take a look at Cooley Blue, Imron by Dupont. Looks really good on out 1927 Dodge Brothers Four Screen.

Is that the same as Coolie Blue IM1 on the early Ditz-Lac system ?

Mike, here is a photo with some of the early options that were available in the Ditzler lineup. I've dated this to the late 20's early 30's but cannot remember where that verified documentation is currently.

Edited January 14, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Here is a link that may help you decide :

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclim.html

If that doesn't confuse you enough, here are some more options:

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/antique.html

Edited January 14, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[stakeside]

Here is a link that may help you decide :

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclim.html

If that doesn't confuse you enough, here are some more options:

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/antique.html

You will find a lot of information in this research done by Leon. My color sample was a very dark blue. Most I have seen are to light in color.

If you have any comments on this article drop him a message.

Discussion of a Search for Graham Brothers Standard Dark Blue and Dodge Brothers Truck Dark Blue 1st Draft 9 Dec 2012

1. Relevant background information

a. Table of Dodge Brothers Exterior Finishes 1914-1928 Four Cyl., posted on DBC website

This table shows “Graham Bros. Truck May 1925-Dec 1928

​Original color: Graham Bros Tk Bl

​Substitutes: 1940 Chev. Tk Boatswain Blue, Ditzler 10039 or DuPont 93-2063

(Other cross-references say Martin Senour 112 and Sherwin Williams 3820 are the same color.)

​​This table is labeled as compiled by David W. Chambers, revised Nov 3 1974

b. A summary paper was written by David W. Chambers and published in Antique Automobile May-June 1968 entitled “Graham Brothers Trucks and Buses 1921-1928”. In the paper he wrote: “. . .Only two colors were common, vis a gunmetal gray and Graham Bros blue (Ditzlers Boatswain Blue No. 10039 is a close approach to the original G.B. blue).”

c. Nov 7 2011 email response to L. Wardle, DBC Mbr No. 6506, question about GB blue, Brandt Rosenbusch, manager of Historical Services at Chrysler Group LLC said, “ Our Graham Brothers information does not include any paint information.”

2. Published books I’ve obtained:

a. Dodge Pickups History and Restoration Guide 1918-1971 Don Bunn and Tom Brownell, 1991, Motorbooks International

Paint colors after 1933 are shown, various colors with Ditzler codes.

​ b. The Dodge Story Thomas A. McPherson, 1992, Motorbooks International

The first mention of truck colors was for 1926. “Graham Brothers dark blue lacquer with gold striping. Fenders and splash shields were finished with black baked enamel.”

For 1928 he reported, “All Graham trucks were painted dark Graham Brothers blue with gold pin striping.”

( No specifics on what Graham Brothers dark blue was)

c. Dodge Trucks Don Bunn, 1996, MotorBooks Internatioal

“ A 1921 Graham one-ton . . . The cab was painted in Graham’s standard dark blue with light blue striping.”

1922: “All metal parts of the body were painted with black baked enamel; wood parts were painted blue with light blue stripes.”

Also in 1922: “The body was finished in Graham standard blue with gold striping.”

All color mentioned in 1923 and 1924 was Graham standard blue with light blue stripes.

1925: “ In 1925 the one ton BB was introduced. Bodies were finished in gray paint.

1926, for one model: “Body and cab were painted with Graham’s standard dark blue lacquer with gold striping.”

1927 and 1928 for one-ton: “Cab and body were finished in standard Graham blue with light blue striping and cream wheels.”

1930 for the Dodge Merchants Express panel: “Standard paint design was Dodge blue lacquer with yellow molding and black stripe (yellow molding not shown).”

1931 for F-40 two-ton trucks: “The finish was dark blue with yellow striping.”

d. Standard Catalogue of Light-Duty Dodge Trucks John Gunnell, 2002, Krause Publications

In 1928-29 the Series DA-120: “Painted in blue lacquer, with gold moldings and cream-colored wheels, . . .”

The 1929 ½ ton panel: “The 6-foot panel body was painted blue with gray interior. Wood spoke wheels were cream with black hubs. The fenders were black.”

In 1930 (Dodge Bros) ½ ton Merchant Express: “ Pickups were painted Dodge Blue with yellow moldings, black stripes and cream colored wood spoke wheels. Other models used the same scheme except for gold stripes on the screen side truck.”

In 1930 ¾-ton U1-B-124: “The paint scheme was again Dodge blue with yellow moldings, black stripes and cream wheels.”

No mention is made of paint colors for 1931 or later years.

​

e. The Graham Legacy: Graham-Paige to 1932 Michael Keller, 1998, Turner

Publishing A copy of a 1925 advertisement for the 1-ton G-Boy Stake Truck said: “ Painting: Body and Cab are painted with Graham Brothers standard dark blue lacquer with gold striping; wheels light cream; hood ,fenders and splash shields are finished with baked enamel ( black presumed, but not stated).

Keller’s text also refers to the 1926 G-boy: “The dark blue truck with the gold pin striping and cream colored wheels . . .”

​

3. We have not yet found specific data on a paint manufacturer’s code or pigment formulas for either Graham Brothers or Dodge Brothers dark blue for 1921 thru 1932. Further there were four assembly plants in operation, Detroit, Evansville, Stockton, and Toronto. Changes in leadership from Graham brothers to Haynes to Wilmer to Chrysler, the passage of several years and introduction of new pigment chemistry, and variations as different individuals mixed the paint from batch to batch, all could have contributed to noticeable changes in “Standard Dark Blue”. Jason Anderson, DBC Mbr. 5087 remembers reading in a source that he cannot now recall that Graham Brothers Standard Dark Blue and Dodge Truck Dark Blue were not the same blue.

Charles Tucker, DBC Mbr. 1293 had heard that many GB (and DB?) trucks were shipped to dealers in gray primer for local painting to customers’ fleet colors.

​For the above reasons we have resorted to searching for trucks among those owned by DBC members that have at least some areas on them that appear to be original paint that is still in good condition. It is recognized that pigments, solids, and bonding material can change in color over a period of 80 plus years. Fading, darkening, and change of degree of redness or green tint in the blue are all possibilities mentioned in discussions of pigment aging effects.

We have found that application of a little light rubbing with buffing compound or auto finish cleaner compounds can bring out a quite good looking intense color in an old finish that had become dim or milky or gray with time.

To date the following three DBC members’ trucks have yielded good data points:

a. Charles Tucker, DBC Mbr 1293 has a 1925 1 ton express E105013 (Evansville assembled) with some very good and apparently original paint that matches Hawthorn (Trinity 1945) Midnight Blue better than Boatswain Blue Ditzler 10039 ( David W. Chamber’s “close approach” to GB dark blue).

b. Harry Reding, DBC Mbr 966 has several 1929 Detroit assembled 1 ¼ ton tnv Model BE, whose GB markings suggest they were assembled before the end of calendar 1928. He found Boatswain Blue Ditzler 10039 a better dyguvn

match than Hawthorn’s Midnight Blue or Baja Blue PPG 18436.

c. Sherman Stake, DBC Mbr 6094 has a 1929 Series "E" ¾ ton S114139 Stockton assembled truck. Identification plates show it to be a Model DE. It may have actually been assembled in 1929 after marking were changed to DB from GB. An area of the paint on the underside of the flareboard where sun exposure would be less, appears original and is noticibly darker than Boatswain Blue, which in turn is darker than Midnight Blue. A carefulness match to modern PPG paints using a spectrophotometer showed a very good match to Baja Blue PPG 18436.

4. Our preliminary finding is that Graham Brothers Standard Dark Blue and Dodge Brothers Truck Blue lie in the range from Hawthorns Midnight Blue (lightest) through Boatswain Blue (Ditzler 10039) (intermediate) to Baja Blue (PPG 18436). L. Wardle bought a small can of each color in Acrylic Urethane and has brushed or sprayed it onto aluminum flashing to obtain larger color samples than those customarily provided by the paint manufacturers. Any one who sees this report and has a GB or DB truck with some paint that appears original is requested to write, phone, or email L. Wardle for a set of the three paint samples. We’ll add your findings on which blue matches best, or possibly some other modern manufacturers number that matches better.

N. Leon Wardle

7 Acorn Lane

Wayland, Ma 01778

Email: lenoreleon@verizon.net

Phone: 508-358-5664

​​

[Phil 32DL6]

I can't tell you if the color DBC member Ken Williams used on his 1930 Coupe is dead on original or not, but anybody who has seen it in person agrees that the blue is gorgeous!

If interested you might try finding out what he used.

[Rogillio]

I can't tell you if the color DBC member Ken Williams used on his 1930 Coupe is dead on original or not, but anybody who has seen it in person agrees that the blue is gorgeous!

If interested you might try finding out what he used.

OMG, that paint job is awesome. I love the color. Please find out what color that is. Thanks

[keiser31]

I can't tell you if the color DBC member Ken Williams used on his 1930 Coupe is dead on original or not, but anybody who has seen it in person agrees that the blue is gorgeous!

If interested you might try finding out what he used.

Ken's car IS a gorgeous car and the color is AMAZING....

[Phil 32DL6]

OMG, that paint job is awesome. I love the color. Please find out what color that is. Thanks

PM sent.

[stakeside]

PM sent.

Great looking car. What is the paint used?

[30DodgePanel]

You will find a lot of information in this research done by Leon. My color sample was a very dark blue. Most I have seen are to light in color.

If you have any comments on this article drop him a message

Hey Sherman,

I have spoken to Leon but my conclusion (for my vehicle) is that neither the Hawthorne Midnight Blue, Boatswain Blue or the Baja Blue discussed are a match to the original base color that I've uncovered. It should be noted (as I described to Leon in a previous conversation) that all of those colors are much lighter than what my truck was painted originally. The closest match for me personally has been the Coolie Blue IM-1 in the Ditzler lineup above so far to this point in my research. I talked to Bruce at the Chrysler Museum and he could not tell me what the 29 Merchant Express was painted but my truck had a similar color originally to that paint.

The information we have to go off in regards to the "Graham Dark Blue" is something I don't see anyone has any conclusive evidence of and therefore cannot describe exactly what was meant by the Graham Dark Blue color. Leon does great work and his efforts are appreciated by all but I still haven't connected any evidence that is historical fact to this point. If I ever come across any proof he will be the first to know.

For now after all the testing I've done, my color choice is still Coolie Blue until proven otherwise. I am still looking for documentation to verify a true color before I paint because I want to make darn sure I have a factory correct option that is time period correct and one that was used on the 124" wheelbase lineup for 1930.

As for the color charts I was simply giving Rogillio some links to look at color options to see if he could find anything. Please understand I did not mean to imply that those were "correct" color choices for his vehicle, but rather just samples to view.

Edited January 17, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Take a look at Cooley Blue, Imron by Dupont. Looks really good on out 1927 Dodge Brothers Four Screen.

Hey Juan,

I've looked at your profile images and I'm curious to know what color was used on the 26 if you know ?

Edited January 17, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[nearchoclatetown]

Dave, Coolie Blue is a common substitute I've heard of in the club. Admiral code is BCA. In Ditzler the number is 11731, DUpont is 246-91866H. I've been through a LOT of paint books. Closest color I've found is a Ford truck color around 1980, but it's too green., should be a little more red.

[30DodgePanel]

Thanks Doug, I'll check those out.

[MikeC5]

I would also be interested in the color code for Ken's blue...

[30DodgePanel]

OMG, that paint job is awesome. I love the color. Please find out what color that is. Thanks

Mike, here are a couple of samples I thought might interest you. Both are in the same range of the beautiful coupe above. These are just for you to compare ideas...

Both are from a revised 1930 Intermix (IM) Color Charts for Dodge vehicles. I do not know if these are only for Passenger Cars or if Trucks were included, I'm still in the process of verifying some information and may take some time.

1st color is ML-5678 Blue Hour Blue. I would recommend you consider this color as it seems to have that deep rich look you seem to be interested in. (speaking just from my experience in dealing with clients, if you have no interest please let me know so I can try other routes)

2nd Color I thought might interest you is ML-3951 Twilight Blue. This is the color I'm guessing is on the coupe above owned by Ken Williams. Just a guess...

Edited January 18, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

Thanks Dave. It's so hard to tell from a color chip....

[30DodgePanel]

For those of you wanting to know what Ken's car was painted with here is his reply:

"The color id 1930 dodge marquise blue, it is painted with

ppg base coat clear coat. The color was derived from ppg going back in the

ditzler paint archives and they came up with the color. There is no present

color name for it just have a paint code 19218. I hope that can help you, the

color has a lot of violet in it when in the sun".

[MikeC5]

Thanks Dave. I'm making a note of it.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

For those of you wanting to know what Ken's car was painted with here is his reply:

"The color id 1930 dodge marquise blue, it is painted with

ppg base coat clear coat. The color was derived from ppg going back in the

ditzler paint archives and they came up with the color. There is no present

color name for it just have a paint code 19218. I hope that can help you, the

color has a lot of violet in it when in the sun".

You know, guys, I was going to just throw out there that this blue has a fair amount of red in it. If you start out with a dark blue, and add red to it incrementally, you begin to eventually head towards violet and purple. (That's overly simplistic, but it sort of helps make my point). Ken's car is gorgeous, but you have to study his color choice closely to be sure that you'll continue to like it after you see other cars with truer blues on them. I would encourage someone to apply a sample of this color to some available surface and look at it in different light for a while to make sure that they truly liked it enough to put it on their own car.

[30DodgePanel]

I would encourage someone to apply a sample of this color to some available surface and look at it in different light for a while to make sure that they truly liked it enough to put it on their own car.

I would also add to that if anyone is doing samples (or "draw downs" as we call them in the field) then you will want to use the same type of surface to start with.

Meaning, do not use a piece of cardboard or aluminum if you are trying to achieve a match to 16 or 14 gauge metal. Also when doing samples it's best to apply the same amount of coats as the color your matching. I would highly recommend two coats of primer, and a minimum two coats of finish but would prefer to see 4 coats in order to achieve a full and uniform hue for any draw down before purchasing any final product.

Great eye btw Hudsy. Not much red but there is some red in it.

Keep in mind all there are several variations in regards to the correct red colorant to use in the mix so you have to know which red was used.

Just a few red examples for colorants are:

Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber , Bulletin Red, Magenta, Permanent Red etc...

Edited January 20, 2015 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[Rogillio]

Here is is the car in DU light. The new paint is much darker.....I like it better....but I am biased since I painted it.

How do I filter the air out of my compressor? I'm gonna try again....this time I'm gonna pick a blue and paint it all at one time.

[30DodgePanel]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]292278[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]292277[/ATTACH]

Here is is the car in DU light. The new paint is much darker.....I like it better....but I am biased since I painted it.

How do I filter the air out of my compressor? I'm gonna try again....this time I'm gonna pick a blue and paint it all at one time.

Not sure what your asking but Ray addressed moisture previously which is highly recommended.

If you're simply trying to regulate the amount of air then there are several methods you can use depending on what you're trying to achieve. You can decrease/increase at the compressor as well as at the gun or a inline regulator. We call them cheater valves and I like to have mine inline at the base of the gun for ease of functionality. It's really a personal preference depending on what your trying to achieve and what type of products you are using. Different bases will require proper air/material mix for proper atomization and flow.

[R.White]

You need to get hold of an airline filter or two. Position the filters between the compressor and the gun. There are filters for water and others for oil. In an ideal set up you would have a dryer before the filters but then it all starts getting expensive. I made my own from 1/2" copper tubing- the idea being that moisture evaporates on the inside of the pipework and can be drained off through drop legs.

[MikeC5]

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store near you, they sell disposable in line filters and dessicant dryers for reasonable prices. Combined with the water separator I already have on the compressor and these I get decent 'paint air'. It's not a bad idea to drain the compressor tank of water before you start. In humid climates there can be quite a bit of water in there.

Edited January 25, 2015 by MikeC5
spell (see edit history)

[Rogillio]

Yes, we have a Harbor Freight. Thanks

[R.White]

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store near you, they sell disposable in line filters and dessicant dryers for reasonable prices. Combined with the water separator I already have on the compressor and these I get decent 'paint air'. It's not a bad idea to drain the compressor tank of water before you start. In humid climates there can be quite a bit of water in there.

I have just found the disposable in line filters you mentioned. I'm sure they have been around for ages but I never thought to look.

Marvellous idea:cool:

Thanks!

Ray.

[Rogillio]

This "midnight blue" from OReilly Auto Parts. I wanted a 'standard paint' I could get locally. I got an inline filter for my paint gun and got much better results.

I'm still learning.....and having fun.

Since I had the crowl lights off I polished them up. They shined up like a new penny.

[Machinist_Bill]

Looks good from my house!

[MikeC5]

Very nice! I'll have to check out that shade of blue.

[30DodgePanel]

I'm still learning.....and having fun.

.

There you go.... that's what it's all about !

Not bad for a rook :cool:

[Rogillio]

Here is the latest.

The back part is actually a really dark (too dark) blue. I will repaint that after I'm done painting the rest of the blue. It's a professional job but I get better each time I paint. The filter tip was REALLY helped a lot! I got an awesome finish.