steering wheel removal - stuck

[CasinoBeige]

I am working on restoring the horn in my 1954 Buick Century. I have all parts needed but have run into a snag. I can't get the steering wheel off the hub. I removed the flexible horn ring, the shaft nut and lock washer, so threaded shaft is exposed but the steering wheel (which should now be free) does not budge. Maybe it is just stuck but I can't get it to move. Manual says to use a J 1566 puller which looks like a three-pronged claw with a screw down in the middle, but alas I do not have one. Anyone else have any such problem when trying to remove the steering wheel? I do not want to be too rough with it for fear of damaging something. Thanks.

Kevin

[Mark Shaw]

You should be able to rent or borrow a puller from another local club member...

[Fr. Buick]

Agreed, a puller is the way to go. You will use bolts inside the three slotted holes on the center of the wheel. To get the head of the bolt in, I had to grind down a few of the hex corners.

Also to protect the horn wire, if it is still there, cover it with an old socket that will fit over the steering shaft, and onto the steering wheel nut which you back off a quarter inch from the wheel center. This way, the center shaft of the puller will be pressing on the nut, and not on the center of the steering shaft.

[Pat0366]

I recently got a puller (on loan) from Advance Auto Parts. It was a nice unit. They bill your credit card and then issue a full credit when you return the tool. Other chain automotive stores may have a similar loan policy. Check'em out.

You'll be able to get the steering wheel off in a jiffy. Without a puller your chances, as the saying goes, are slim and none.

Pat

[MrEarl]

Good point Father Buick, he does not want to damage that horn wire.

Ahh, Casino Beige #54-03, one of my favorite 54 colors, really shows off the chrome without too much contrast to the paint.

There are a couple of different types of pullers you can use. Here is an original old Snap-on tool made specifically for this type steering wheel. Been looking for one for years, always get outbid on eBay.

Here is a close up of the type bolts used for the above.

Here is about the closest thing you can buy on the market that with a little riggin you can make work. I buy hardened bolts as the ones furnished will bend like a pretzel when you start tightening down on them. You will want to grid the one side of the heads off so they will fit into the elongated holes in the steering wheel base and be turned so they grip it when you start tightening up on the center bolt. And has Father Buick suggested be sure to use a large socket to protect the horn wire. You do not want to damage that horn wire.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-3900?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAiA5qOlBRDAn8K5qen65joSJADRvlbqIod2pEK_NFDVtyhxMHRk3U4cupGKyLcRxKyHZBXvRxoCXaHw_wcB

Here is another tool, with accompanying instructions for use, over on the '54 Buick Highway that can be retrofitted to make work and looks like a good one.

http://www.1954buick.com/showthread.php/6812-Pulling-the-steering-wheel

I think the next time I pull a steering wheel I am going to buy one of them.

and did I mention, be sure not to damage that horn wire.

[Guest]

Use that exact setup as well. Found three bolts from disassembling old electric motor end shells barely had to grind heads to fit steering hub slots then nuts with flat washers for slots on puller end gives enough room for socket with hex facing hub to preserve horn wire.I use a cordless impact to give it "snap" seems to to be more successful than hand rachet. A dozen w/o damage so far!

Agreed, a puller is the way to go. You will use bolts inside the three slotted holes on the center of the wheel. To get the head of the bolt in, I had to grind down a few of the hex corners.

Also to protect the horn wire, if it is still there, cover it with an old socket that will fit over the steering shaft, and onto the steering wheel nut which you back off a quarter inch from the wheel center. This way, the center shaft of the puller will be pressing on the nut, and not on the center of the steering shaft.

[Barney Eaton]

For those of us that have pulled numerous steering wheels, it seem a simple matter. Basic steps are.. (1) position the unit so the center bolt fits into the end of the steering shaft, then install the 3 bolts (newer cars only use 2) install the three bolts so they are evenly installed to the same depth. (2) tighten the center bolt until all the slack is out of the puller (again having the three bolts at the same head height is important)

(3) now tighten the center bolt with nice even pressure. (4) at some point the wheel usually breaks loose..... if it does not hit the head of the center bolt with a hammer and that impact will usually pop off the wheel,

if not, tighten the center bolt in 1/2 turn increments then hit the center bolt with hammer again.

Last resort, leave the puller in place and use liquid wrench on the spline and let sit overnight..... repeat above.

[CasinoBeige]

Thanks guys. I knew good advice would be forthcoming. Will try these suggestions when I get a break from work and weather. HNY to all...

[1957buickjim]

Yes - and I second what Barney said about the liquid wrench or PB Blaster. Spray liberally on the shaft and spline area, let set for a few hours ( or longer the better) then put the puller on and go to work. Should come off like a charm!

[CasinoBeige]

Lucky for me, the horn wire is not an issue because that is the reason I am taking the wheel off. The horn wire is there but is loose and not connected to the horn connector slipring. The wire is just hanging inside the shaft. The slipring was in the glove box when I bought the car, so I have to reassemble. So, I can remove the horn wire before getting the wheel off. Will try auto parts store, or local garage for a puller. Thanks again for the help all.