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1969 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS 427 PROJECT


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/16/2020 at 3:14 PM, STEVE POLLARD said:

My parents had a '69 Impala 4 door as well... 327 engine. Prior to getting my driver's permit, I use to drive it up and down our driveway....I had a lot of fun doing that until my father started asking questions about the streaks of burnt rubber markings on the driveway...😉

 

Steve

Driving it or drag racing it in the driveway Steve?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Steve Pollard. I’d be a little older than you. My burnouts were with Dad’s ‘54 Ford V-8 around 1960. One day he said the rear end is making some noise.  Whoops.  A while later we had a new ‘62 Chev.  Pertaining to this thread in 1975 I bought a ‘69 Impala SS 427  with a poor engine.  I got the engine rebuilt at the local Chev-Olds dealer and they did it right.  The rest of the car was nothing special but did that 427 like to let it out. I don’t think it even had a tach but if you kept your foot in it the shift to  high was at 105 mph.  Quite a car. Sadly I rolled it and parted it out. 

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Thanks for the story ! A few years after I got my driver's licence, Dad retired the old '69 Impala ( you can see it in this picture with the plates off ) .... and I purchased a '74 AMC Javelin... I played around in the driveway as well, getting use to the 3 speed stick shift. That came to an end as well, Dad was concern that I might miss a shift and go thru the garage and hit Mom's  pride and joy -  '77 Mercury Cougar XR7.... lol

 

Steve

 

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On 4/2/2020 at 8:17 PM, Cured said:

Steve Pollard. I’d be a little older than you. My burnouts were with Dad’s ‘54 Ford V-8 around 1960. One day he said the rear end is making some noise.  Whoops.  A while later we had a new ‘62 Chev.  Pertaining to this thread in 1975 I bought a ‘69 Impala SS 427  with a poor engine.  I got the engine rebuilt at the local Chev-Olds dealer and they did it right.  The rest of the car was nothing special but did that 427 like to let it out. I don’t think it even had a tach but if you kept your foot in it the shift to  high was at 105 mph.  Quite a car. Sadly I rolled it and parted it out. 

Sounds like you were a little rough on the equipment!🤣🤣

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  • 3 weeks later...

Chris that would be an understatement. In my defence at age 6 I learned to drive in  ‘51 International L-120 3/4 ton. 4 speed no synchro. If you didn’t double clutch you didn’t shift.  There wasn’t any “sport” mode on that truck. I guess I got a little carried away when I graduated to vehicles that you could have fun with. 

On 4/9/2020 at 12:28 PM, chistech said:

Sounds like you were a little rough on the equipment!🤣🤣

 

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  • 1 month later...

Just got my original radiator back....re cored , media blasted, re soldered and pressure tested...turned out great !  Next up will be a carburetor rebuild and then I should be ready to start up the 427 Big Block.  

 

Steve

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

I have a question, unrelated to the '69 SS, but related to the '69 Bel Air that I purchased back in the spring. The original rear bumper was pitted and had a few dents ( not detectable from the pictures that I posted )so, I was able to locate a "driver quality" replacement from a savage yard out in Colorado. It's actually really nice...my question is regarding the back side of the bumper, it has rust. Other than scraping it off, has anyone use a specific rust inhibitor on the back side of their bumpers ?

 

Thanks 

 

 

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I have been using Corroseal on some of the rusty areas I can't get cleaned up with any tools. Usually the little nooks and crannies.  I would brush the rust with a wire brush, then brush it on. It will turn black when it dries. Then I would coat it with silver paint. 

Water-Based Rust Converter w/ Easy to apply - brush, roll or spray by  Corroseal - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, I have the original chrome air cleaner..... it's pitted with rust, so I'll be on the look out for another one... ( I think the Corvettes might be the same ?  will look into )

 

 

Steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a little update.... took advantage of the warm temperatures we had last week and painted the fan and pulley. Installed the nos power brake booster and sent out the original master cylinder to Brake & Equipment in Minneapolis to be restored. Installed a nos fan clutch to the fan and installed the unit. 

 

Steve

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

A little update... installed the weather stripping between the hood and cowl and realized that there is a separate piece on the passenger side that completes the seal between the hood and cowl that slips under the fender. I confirmed this with my other '69 Impala that I really didn't pay attention to before. Long story short, they are not available in the aftermarket ....my friend that carries NOS parts, no longer has them. My other friend from North Carolina restored a SS427 years ago and ran into the same problem. He made a mold of an original one and made a bunch of copies ! So I was able to get this piece of weather stripping from my friend, the only difference is that my original attachment clips won't work since this new mold is slightly thicker than the original one, so a made new, larger attachment clips - see photos.

 

Guys - Have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year !

 

Steve

 

** The last picture shows my other '69 with the weather stripping mounted**

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  • 5 months later...

In the coming weeks, I'll be stripping down the inner fender wells on the Impala and I would like to paint them myself. What type of paint guns / systems are you using ? 

 

Thanks !

 

Steve

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What type of finish are you looking for?  If its semi-gloss black, I used a "underhood black" that is semi-gloss from Tamco but I am using UPOL RaptorLiner on the parts that need sound deadening / rock chip protection.  Its RaptorLiner on the face towards the tires, semi-gloss on the top side.  

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@AURktmanis the Tamco underhood black a 2K product?  I may look into it if it's better than the Eastwood stuff..

 

Very nice work, Steve!

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Do you still need an air cleaner?  I have one from a 427 corvette with a quadrajet.  Not sure if it was 68 or 69, but think 69.  I may actually know where it is, and don't recall it being rusty.  

 

Let me know, and I can drag it out.  Hasn't been on a car since about 1979.  

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11 hours ago, Zimm63 said:

Do you still need an air cleaner?  I have one from a 427 corvette with a quadrajet.

Thanks Zimm for the offer.... I still have the original.

 

Steve 

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19 hours ago, AURktman said:

What type of finish are you looking for? 

I want to keep it factory original......what type of spray gun are you using AURktman ?

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Posted (edited)
On 6/4/2021 at 6:59 AM, Smartin said:

@AURktmanis the Tamco underhood black a 2K product?  I may look into it if it's better than the Eastwood stuff..

 

Very nice work, Steve!

Yes, it’s a 2k product.  Make sure you stir it 2-3 times longer than normal paint, but it’s become the only satin black paint I will use anymore.  It’s a bit hard to see in this photo (quick photo in the workshop) but I think you can tell the sheen level.  It’s on the inside of my 57 Chevy fenders.

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Edited by AURktman
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On 6/4/2021 at 6:50 PM, STEVE POLLARD said:

I want to keep it factory original......what type of spray gun are you using AURktman ?

I’m using an ANI R150 mini gun for all of the parts and pieces. DeVilbiss FLG5 for the main panels and car. I also have an ANI F160 for sealers and single stage on big panels. 

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On 6/4/2021 at 6:50 PM, STEVE POLLARD said:

I want to keep it factory original......what type of spray gun are you using AURktman ?

 

On 6/4/2021 at 6:59 AM, Smartin said:

@AURktmanis the Tamco underhood black a 2K product?  I may look into it if it's better than the Eastwood stuff..

 

Very nice work, Steve!


 

Here is a better view of the Underhood black from Tamco.  I normally buy most paints like this by the quart, but I love it so much I ordered a gallon.  Front radiator filler panels for my 57 Chevy. 
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Edited by AURktman (see edit history)
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Just an update..... went down to southern NJ and picked up my nos gas tank and the passenger door nos molding. This molding completed the entire set - been searching almost 5 years for this molding !

 

I have someone in mind that rebuilds the gas tank sending unit.... but still looking for someone to rebuild the carburetor ( Rochester Quadrajet 4 Barrel ) The carb was already off the car in a box when I purchased it, so I'm hoping that everything is there. If anyone can recommend someone / company, please let me know - Thanks !

 

Steve 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I failed to mention that I had the original master cylinder rebuilt a few months ago and I just replaced the wheel cylinders ( the previous owner replaced the rear drum shoes and the front disk brakes) the wheel cylinders looked original - corroded and leaking fluid. The fluid was a rust color, so I hook up the brake bleed vacuum and I was unable to pull any fluid thru the line, so I'm guessing the lines are rusted as well.  

 

Any suggestions for brake line replacement ?

 

Thanks

 

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Steve,

   Try Fine Lines or Inline Tubing for your brake lines.  For your carb, try Larry Isgro; he's the best in the country, plus he's in New York.  He redid my 1974 Z28 Carb (after I had it rebuilt by 5 other rebuilders, yes you're reading the correctly, all of which failed), but Larry was able to sort it out at rebuild me a perfect carb. (516) 783-1041  or you can google him.

 

-Chris

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Chris - I ended up ordering the entire kit from Inline Tube.... just came in last Friday - now to find the time to install it. I asked a question over in the Technical Section regarding DOT 3 vs. DOT 5....... good information that I received, looks like I'm going to go with the DOT 5..... thanks for the heads up on Larry !

 

 

Steve

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  • 4 weeks later...

I started with the removal of the old brake lines....fun job with a bad shoulder....slow going, but we'll get there.

 

Steve

 

 

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Posted (edited)

I ran into an issue....with the lines off, I can see that there is fine dirt inside the frame. I can stick my pinky in the holes and feel the dirt is packed in there... almost the entire length of the driver's side frame rail. I had no idea.. kinda depress at the moment... I'm discussing it with a friend of mine, but now looking at pulling the body off .....

 

( pictures are upside down )

 

 

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Edited by STEVE POLLARD (see edit history)
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That sucks.  My frame had dirt in it to, but not that much.  I used compressed air and a blow nozzle and blew from the front of the frame rails to the rear.  It blew out the back rail opening.  I would try that and hit the rails with a dead blow mallet to loosen it up.  Put the nozzle in the holes as you move along blowing it.  Maybe this will help.

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Good suggestion Martin..... the car came out of Kansas, so who knows how long it's been there.... but it's very fine dirt and packed in there....but no dampness.

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Steve, is it possible just mud wasp-related dirt?  My MGA looked like a mud wasp city after tearing the car apart originally.  Either way, I think the compressed air, breaking it up, and blowing it out should work.  Maybe you can use some sort of snake, coat hanger, vacuum; something to get access to all the areas with dirt.  

 

I have the same problem with my Jeep Wrangler (although it's from driving through mud, rivers, you name it).  Was able to get most of it out.  My mechanic recommended and internal frame spray.  It has a special nozzle that goes in fairly deep and sprays a protectant/paint all over the insides.  This may prevent rust (or further rust) without taking the whole car apart chasing it.

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