Broken water pump bolts

[GSMAG]

Uh oh...I had to change the water pump on my '69 Sportwagon 400 and of course, four of the smaller bolts broke off. I was able to get one out with pliers, but the other three won't budge. I've already broken one easy out. Any suggestions? I prefer to keep the front cover on, but will do what I must. Thanks in advance,<P>Mike

[Guest]

Mike<BR>A restorers rule of thumb "DON'T BREAK BOLTS!" <P>The trick is to heat the block surrounding the bolt sufficiently so as not to cause too much of a temperature difference, which could crack the block. Do this with an oxyacetylene torch without oxygen-just gas, nice and easy. Once the surrounding area is hot, hit the bolt with a blast of oxygen gas mixture to ignite the bolt. Once the smoke settles you should have a rough hole to drill out, tar, and insert a helical thread into to get to the original thread size-and hopefully no cracks.<P>If you can get pliers on the broken bolt heat it with just gas and try to work the bolt out.<P>But for future reference use WD-40 or liquid wrench let it sit over night and wire brush off any rust or paint. Apply heat if necessary.<P>------------------<BR>Kevin Smith<BR>'65 Buick Special Owner

[Guest John Chapman]

Mike,<P>Check out the July 2000 Hot Rod magazine for a good article on removing broken bolts. Also, additional tips at: <A HREF="http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint116.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint116.htm</A> <P>PB Blaster is probably the best product to penetrate and losen corroded bolts. Comes in a funky looking spray can, but man does it work!<P>Good luck!<BR>John<P>------------------<BR>John Chapman<BR>BCA 35894<BR> jmchapman@aol.com

[GSMAG]

I appreciate the responses and I will check out the mag for tip. The biggest problem is they are in the aluminum cover and I'm not going to put a torch to it to heat it. I'd melt down faster than the aluminum cover! BTW, I did let them sit overnight with WD-40 on them. <BR> <BR>Thanks,<P>Mike<p>[This message has been edited by GSMAG (edited 07-25-2000).]

[Guest]

Yea 65 speceal, You don`t heat up cast aluminum with a torch! What are you smokin man?!

[capgage]

I've never found that WD-40 did anything for me when loosening rusted bolts. It's not really a penetrating oil. But, Liquid Wrench (or that other stuff mentioned above, more expensive) does work well with the overnight soak. Also, before you let it sit, tap the bolt (lightly) head on a few times. You likely will be suprised the next day when the bolt is loose!<P>Mark

[YellowLark]

Our largest local auto parts chain no longer sells WD-40.<P>A manager told me that PB Blaster has taken over the market.<P>Of course, while an excellent product, it is also more profitable to sell.<P><P>------------------<BR>

[Dave@Moon]

What is there, something in the water this week. This is the second time in 2 days I've on posted this topic (the other on the AACA forum).<P>I have a set of easy outs that included a set of reverse drill bits. These work much better than regular easy outs, often just the drill bit's pressure is enough to get the bolt end out.

[Guest John Chapman]

Mark/Yellow...<P>Great observation, as you noted, WD-40 is not a penetrating oil application. WD-40 (WD for Water Displacement, 40 for the 40th formula) is a concoction originally developed for the aerospace industry and used to displace moisture and provide low viscosity lubrication in tight areas. Along with duct tape (aviation ordinance tape), stainless wire (aviation grade safety wire/ordinance arming wire), braided hoses, quick disconnect (QD)fitting, pathfinder lights (landing/taxi sealed beam lamps)... yada, yada, yada... it migrated to the performance world...<P>Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster are the penetrating rust breakers. If they're taking the market away from WD-40, it's because folks figured out that WD-40 wasn't so good at what it wasn't designed to do.<P>I only know this drivel because WD-40 is a local (San Diego) company and I own some of the stock.<P>------------------<BR>John Chapman<BR>BCA 35894<BR> jmchapman@aol.com

[AK Buickman]

Nobody can blame the mechanic performing this job for the broken studs when replacing a water pump. I've replaced many water pumps on 400-430-455 engines, and if the water pump was on for a long time without any lubricant or anti-seize compound previously put on the threads, a few of the small bolts will break. I went through this on my recently-purchased 1972 Electra 225 last May, when replacing the water pump. Four of the small bolts broke as I was loosening them when a gentle nudge was exerted on my ratchet!! From past experience, I never even attempted using an easy-out to remove the broken studs. Due to the aluminum timing cover that the bolts are threaded into, too much heat from a torch can be fatal to the aluminum. Just drill out the broken bolts & re-tap the hole (make sure the drill is straight). The bolts on the top can use a nut on the back side of the timing chain (near the distributor), if needed. A friend of mine used to replace all of the small bolts EVERY time a water pump was replaced, along with coating the threads with grease or anti-seize compound. This will make the next water pump job much easier!<BR>Whenever I buy another Buick with the 400-430-455 engine, I remove the water pump bolts, expecting some breakage, which can be repaired at my leisure, not one day before a show. Replacing the bolts with better quality hardened bolts, along with lubricant on the threads will ensure them not breaking next time. Good luck..<BR>AK Buickman...

[GSMAG]

Thanks for your experience AK Buickman. That's pretty much what happened here! They just corrode from exposure over time and easily break. Sounds like I'm pulling the front cover off and drilling out the bolts. What a bummer. I also learned about PB Blaster instead of WD-40. I'll get some! Thanks to everyone for your input.<P>Mike

[Guest Kelsey]

Mike,<P>Here are a few suggestions: Please keep in mind that I have never seen this waterpump before but I have had good luck with these 2 methods of broken bolt removal.<P>1. After soaking with some sort of penetrating lube, take a small punch or chisel and make yourself a little dent in the top of the broken bolt by hitting it hard with a hammer in the counter-clockwise direction. Then after you have made yurself a ledge so that you can push against. Use this punch and smack it hard with the hammer, over and over again. Eventually it will begin to move and then you can use more gentle hammer smacks and turn it out. This method has never failed me.<P>2. I don't know where this aluminum is but if you have a wire feed welder, you can take another bolt and weld it to the top of the broken one and then double nut it and turn it out.<P>Hope this helps<P>Kelsey

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by crack head:<BR><B>Yea 65 speceal, You don`t heat up cast aluminum with a torch! What are you smokin man?! </B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Who the hel* do you think you are? And how much do you think you honestly know about Buicks anyway? I didn't see you give any good suggestions or any at all for that matter. And pardon me if I would have removed the unit from the block to continue any bolt removal. I would have also found a better solution after I broke the first bolt. Plus I can not exactly see first hand his problem. How old are you anyway? You don't sound any older than 13 if that. And Mark I use WD-40 and Liquid Wrench all the time and think both work exceptionally great. Thank you.<BR><P>------------------<BR>Kevin Smith<BR>'65 Buick Special Owner