Sign in to follow this  
spongebob

No 3rd and 4th gear..

Recommended Posts

Just a long shot but any chance your shifter is maladjusted and is really in 2nd instead of D. Be kinda hard to be that far out but I would be surprised if electrical, a jammed servo is more likely. Has the trans been flushed and refilled ?
I will be very surprised if it is electrical too. It could possibly be the governor on the shaft that drives the speed sensor but when it was confirmed that the speedometer is working it dropped the odds of that being the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the only clue i have is the 031c code..it says something about the park/neutral switch.

do you think that could get me a neutral going into 3rd?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have access to the logic conditions of setting that code so this is only a guess. If the trans had a failure that won't shift into 3rd and that failure dropped the pressures in that circuit so low it could not engage 3rd, that condition might conceivably activate the park/neutral switch. That would be in conflict with the speed sensor data showing road speed. Would that set a code?

Just a lot of speculating. Can someone find the logic and conditions for that code to set?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Home | Get Help at BAT Auto | Get an ALLDATAdiy Repair Info Subscription

GM 88-90 3.8L VIN C Trouble Code Info

GM

88-90 3.8L VIN C

13 Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 30 seconds when the TPS signal was above 0.55 volts. The engine had been running for at least 40 seconds at normal engine temperature.

14 Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature of over 282° F for 0.4 seconds after the engine had been running for at least 10 seconds.

15 Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -40° F for at least 2 seconds.

16 Charging system voltage was above 16 volts.

21 TPS voltage was above 2.5 volts for 5 seconds when engine was running and air flow was less than 15 gm/sec.

22 TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 4 seconds when the engine was running.

23 Manifold air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of 40° F for 4 seconds.

24 Vehicle speed sensor signal showed less than 3 MPH for 40 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear.

25 Manifold air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature over 283° F for 16 seconds when vehicle speed was greater than 35 MPH.

26 Quad-Driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present, or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present for at least 5 seconds when the engine was running.

27 2nd gear switch was closed or grounded when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 2nd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

28 3rd gear switch was closed or grounded when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 3rd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

29 4th gear switch was closed or grounded when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

31 Park/Neutral switch was grounded when vehicle was in gear, or Park/Neutral switch was open when vehicle was first started, or the 4th gear switch has an intermittent open.

34 There was no MAF signal for over 4 seconds while engine was running.

38 Vehicle speed went from above 35 MPH to 0 several times without a brake input signal.

41 Cam sensor signal was not received by PCM for the last 2 seconds while engine was running.

42 The EST signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module.

43 Knock sensor signal was either above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for at least 5 seconds.

44 Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.2 volts for up to 4 1/2 minutes of closed loop operation.

45 Oxygen sensor voltage was over 0.7 volts for 30 seconds in closed loop operation with a throttle angle between 0.54 and 2.08 volts after engine had been running for 1 minute.

46 Power steering switch was closed for 25 seconds or more when vehicle speed was above 40 MPH.

47 Momentary loss of power to Body Computer Module (BCM).

51 MEM-CAL error.

58 Security system pass key signal was out of range when the ignition was turned to On or Start position.

63 Incorrect EGR operation.

64 Incorrect EGR operation.

65 Incorrect EGR operation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As mentioned earlier, the park/neutral switch is a monitoring device, not a control switch. The trans shifts hydraulicly, not electrically except for the TCC.

If you did not reconnect the trans electrical connector and then clear the codes, then code 31 would still show up and was likely generated while it was unplugged.

EDIT: I do not know for fact how this trans shifts, only going on what others more knowledgeable have posted.

Edited by TexasJohn55 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My dad and I worked on a Chrysler that hung in second due to a vehicle speed sensor. Forgot all about that til now.

It does not sound like you're hung up in second though, it sounds like you leave second and never hit third just from your "feels like it goes into neutral " description. That sounds to me like an internal component failure. Then again, I'm not a professional.

I'll mention again, I had one of my coupes feel like it popped into neutral out of first on harder acceleration. For me, it was a lack of fluid. Could be a plugged trans filter by that logic. Again just rambling. Not much this info Will help without a transmission professional.

Depending on where you are, there's been a rebuilt trans hanging around CL here for roughly an eternity... Good luck. I am assuming the original mechanic is not around to ask about the mysterious wire?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a transmission guy in town, he works on a dirt lot. Ill look for for the park/neutral switch, cause thats the code Im getting.

thanks everyone…..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...Ill look for for the park/neutral switch, cause thats the code Im getting.

thanks everyone…..

I think the code 31 could be telling you that the position of the shifter on the console is out of sync with the position of the shifter shaft that goes into the transmission. I think the P/N switch is actuated by that shaft. After all, didn't you say your shifter was kind of vague feeling when you select a gear? I don't believe the switch itself will keep the transmission from shifting but the shaft that moves it could.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the shifter feels sloppy and not locking into place I would look at where the cable connects to the neutral safety switch. It may have become out of sync, if that is the case they both should be replaced. The safety switch has an adjustment you use a 3/32 drill bit in the side of the sw. Do the adjustment with the cable disconnected and the trans in nutral, all this is on page 7A-5 of the manual. Beyond this I would say internal problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ill try that adjustment tomorrow…

I looked for the "park/neutral switch" and couldn't find it. but then this is what I'm

looking for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Neutral-Safety-Switch-Park-Neutral-Position-Switch-ACDelco-GM-Original-Equipment-/220964446098?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1990%7CModel%3AReatta&hash=item337281df92&vxp=mtr

yes my shifter is way loose on the inside of the car/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yes my shifter is way loose on the inside of the car/

that is what you need to focus on before anything else!!!

agree with Zoltan & Ronnie in posts #38 & 39. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i have the GM service manual with me right now, I'm looking at page 7A-4, "shift control cable" Adjustment.

1-Place shift lever in Neutral. Neutral can be found by rotating th selector shaft clockwise from Park

thru Reverse to Neutral. (this makes no sense to me)

2-Place shift control assembly in Neutral. (whats the difference between a shift lever and a shift control ?)

3- Push tab on cable adjuster to adjust cable in cable mounting bracket.

Thats it, where was the adjustment?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well i have the GM service manual with me right now, I'm looking at page 7A-4, "shift control cable" Adjustment.

1-Place shift lever in Neutral. Neutral can be found by rotating th selector shaft clockwise from Park

thru Reverse to Neutral. (this makes no sense to me)

2-Place shift control assembly in Neutral. (whats the difference between a shift lever and a shift control ?)

3- Push tab on cable adjuster to adjust cable in cable mounting bracket.

Thats it, where was the adjustment?

Refer to Figure 2 on page 7A-4 that shows the parts break down of the parts under the hood. Below is what the instructions are telling you.

1. Make sure the shifter on the console is in Park.

2. Under the hood - disconnect the end of the shifter cable (#3) from the shift lever (#5). It just snaps onto a ball on the lever.

3. With your hand - move the shift lever (#5) from the Park position, to Reverse, and then to the Neutral position. You should feel a click as each one engages. If you don't feel a click that could be a problem.

4. Move the shifter on the console to the Neutral Position.

-At this point you should check the end of the shifter cable (*3) to see if you have a lot of movement in and out. If you do you need to find out why and correct that problem before moving on.

5. The end of the shifter cable should now fit down on the ball on the shifter lever (#5) perfectly without moving the lever. If it doesn't you will need to Push the tab on cable adjuster to adjust the cable in cable mounting bracket (#1). The adjustment is similar to adjusting the TV cable where it connects to the throttle.

Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is assuming you are starting in park and moving the selector(shifter) one position at a time to get to neutral. If you shifter is loose as you say it is no good where it ends on the trans is the safety switch. Disconnect the cable, loosen the two bolts that hold your n/s, place the 3/32 drill bit in the small hole in the n/s, it faces the fire wall hard to see, put in drill bit as far as it will go, lightly move the n/s while pushing in the bit, if the n/s does not move tighten the bolts if it moves find the spot where the drill bit moves in deeper and tighten the bolts. Replace the cable. If you have difficulty with that we can guide you thru it or have a garage install it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ronnie….thank you.You too zoltanb..

I know Im a pain in the a$$, but I really need this car to run in the next 30 days..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope that helps you find your problem. Your next step may be having to take it to the transmission guy in town who works on a dirt lot. That's how a lot of good transmission mechanics got their start.

Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im prepared to take it to my ex GM dealer, thats where the mechanic found the bare wire…

Ill post any results..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect what is happening is that the 31 is being set by the ECM thinking it should be in fourth and the rpm is too high. This could be caused by a stuck shuttle in the valve body. A good flush may cure but if not then the valve body probably needs to come out and be serviced. That can be dropped with the trans in the car but take someone who understands the 4T60.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this