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nickg112

1930 Auburn Cabriolet starting issues

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I have a 1930 Auburn Cabriolet 8 cylinder car that has not run for many years. I am having problems starting the car. If anyone has any ideas on what I need to look for to get it to start, please advise. This is everything that I have done so far:

1) rebuilt my Schebler model S carburetor (updraft)

2) new Coil

3) Dual point distributor synchronized and checked out

4) Piston number 1 brought to top dead center and verified with mark on flywheel 1/8. I then went 3 teeth on the flywheel past top dead center with spark lever fully retarded per Auburn manual

5) Adjusted distributor until one set of points just begin to open

6) Pulled Spark plug #1 with distributor wire, shorted the plug on the side of the block and turned engine over. I am getting spark and as a double check, I put my finger over the spark plug hole. At the point that I felt a pop on my finger I saw a spark on the plug.

7) To assure that I do not have a fuel pump issue, I have an auxiliary fuel pump the goes from a gas can to the carburetor.

8) I also bypassed the ignition switch with a small on/off switch

9) New six volt battery

10) Verified that all 8 wires are in the appropriate order from the distributor

11) When I manually press the starter lever, the car cranks but does not fire. I have used starting fluid and also put a few drops of fuel down spark plug hole number 1.

I do not get a pop or an explosion of any kind. It almost seems like the car is not anywhere near top dead center but I know it is. I am getting fuel and spark. What is missing and what should I try next? I appreciate any help.

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Are you SURE you timed it on the compression stroke? Just because the pointer on the flywheel is at 1/8 doesn't mean it is on time. Remember the cam goes around twice for each time the crank goes around.

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I am absolutely positive. I checked this out by pulling plug number one and putting my thumb over the hole. I get a pop at top dead center and it matches the flywheel

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My thought is you've found number one TDC but have timed it to the wrong wire on the cap. Please remember to turn the distributor the the opposite direction to the rotor's rotation till the points open. That should get you going. Once the motor is warm you can time it by using a vacuum gauge

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Thank you for the response. I am 100% certain that the timing is correct. Does anyone know what the compression should be on this engine?

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When you did the test you outlined in 6) above, when you turned the engine over, did you use the starter or did you hand crank it? It could be a bad coil or weak battery, even though they are new. If you got a spark by hand cranking, try the same test while turning it over with the starter. A bad coil might put out a good spark when it has all the current from the battery- but if the starter is drawing off the battery too, there might not be enough to make a good spark.

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Thanks for the response. I turned it over with a fully charged 6 volt battery. Thinking of using an 8 volt battery. I am going to check compression on all eight cylinders also. Does anyone know what the compression should be on this engine? How much compression is needed to start it?

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Nick, did you ever get your engine started?

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No, I have not gotten it started. Took a little break and started working on another car. Plan on getting back to this one soon. I did just get new points and have not tried that out yet

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The compression should be roughly 15x the compression ratio of the engine.. so if it has a 5.0:1 compression ratio then you should have around 70-75psi compression.

Double check your other set of points to make sure they are opening as well.

You CAN have compression if the cam is several teeth off, if it is possible, look at the cam timing marks. If not, then when #1 cylinder is on TDC, then #8 will be on crossover. The exhaust valve will be just closing and the intake just opening when the piston comes up to TDC. You should be able to watch the valves through a spark plug hole.

A rotor can have a crack in it, and be shorting the spark to the distributor shaft.. Look at the rotor for carbon tracks.

If you pull a coil wire, and crank the engine over you should get equally spaced sparks from the coil. If you get one, then a weak one, then none, it usually is the condenser. Make sure the distributor is well grounded, and the condenser is also tight and grounded.

Let us know what you find.

GLong

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Thank you for your help and suggestions. I have been working on another car and have not tried starting this car. Hopefully I will get back to it soon

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