Jump to content

Convert hydroelectric windows to electric


Eric W
 Share

Recommended Posts

Near as I can tell, the power windows from 1947 - 1953 were hydroelectric. Since my car isn't a convertible, I was thinking about maybe leaving the hydraulic pump for appearance, but not circulating the fluid inside the doors and cabin. I found this:

nu-relics.com/hydraulic.html -bolt in conversion specific to these Buicks.

Would be interested to hear if anyone else has done this, using these or a different product.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://nu-relics.com/hydraulic.html

No experience here with the conversion but it appears to be a well-de$$igned kit. Six or twelve-volt?

Don't forget about the front seat hydraulic adjuster on your 76R Roadmaster two-door hardtop if you plan on deleting the entire hydraulic system. You might have to swap out the seat track mechanism to something that is similar to what's under your 41D four-door sedan front seat.

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good catch, Al. Yes, I will be doing something with the seat. Could be a linear actuator that could be made to fit into the original seat adjuster. But as my 76R sits now, it does not have the correct front seat. It has a non-power-adjusted 2-door seat from something (the seat backs tip forwards on each side), but I don't know what. The original seat is gone. The electrohydraulic seat adjuster hardware was in the trunk. I saw one of these seats out of a Cadillac on ebay recently - they'd split it into about a thousand pieces, wanting dozens to hundreds of dollars for each piece. Might be nice if your car was missing one part, but to fight it out in a multitude of auctions to end up with a multi-thousand-dollar seat - I could probably dress up a more common seat to resemble, if not nearly replicate the original (if I can't find an original).

It looks like the nu-relics window motors are all 12V. So another aspect of this is converting the whole car to 12V. That can also be done in a not-so-obvious way with a new-build one-wire alternator in a case that closely resembles the original generator case. I forget the name of the company that's building those, but it was in another thread on here.

I'm not set on anything, but I looked into costs for restoring the hydraulics, and it's the same or more than the nu-relics window kits and 12V conversion combined. Then you still have the possibility of some sort of hydraulic fluid getting loose in the car and ruining paint, upholstery, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In case your interested, I have a complete 1956 Roadmstr 6way power seat base assy that I was going to shorten for my 55 cent. I may consider selling it instead. PM me if you want to talk about it

Good catch, Al. Yes, I will be doing something with the seat. Could be a linear actuator that could be made to fit into the original seat adjuster. But as my 76R sits now, it does not have the correct front seat. It has a non-power-adjusted 2-door seat from something (the seat backs tip forwards on each side), but I don't know what. The original seat is gone. The electrohydraulic seat adjuster hardware was in the trunk. I saw one of these seats out of a Cadillac on ebay recently - they'd split it into about a thousand pieces, wanting dozens to hundreds of dollars for each piece. Might be nice if your car was missing one part, but to fight it out in a multitude of auctions to end up with a multi-thousand-dollar seat - I could probably dress up a more common seat to resemble, if not nearly replicate the original (if I can't find an original).

It looks like the nu-relics window motors are all 12V. So another aspect of this is converting the whole car to 12V. That can also be done in a not-so-obvious way with a new-build one-wire alternator in a case that closely resembles the original generator case. I forget the name of the company that's building those, but it was in another thread on here.

I'm not set on anything, but I looked into costs for restoring the hydraulics, and it's the same or more than the nu-relics window kits and 12V conversion combined. Then you still have the possibility of some sort of hydraulic fluid getting loose in the car and ruining paint, upholstery, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...