New B-U-I-C-K letters

[raleets]

I just scored a nice like-new set of B-U-I-C-K letters for the rear of my '89.

I'm all ears on suggestions for fast, safe, and easy removal of the old letters and the proper way to affix the new set.

Please, fire away!

Thanks,

[dship]

I used dental floss wedged in between the lens and the back side of a letter using a downward left to right motion. I removed each letter with no issues...just take your time. My decision was to use super glue to attach the new/replacement letters...but others my have a different/better suggestion.

[KDirk]

A dental pick usually does well at popping the letters off as the original foam tape adhesive is badly weathered by now and has much less holding power than when new. I would advise against using super glue for two reasons. First, the lens plastic and the letters are subject to possible damage (clouding/distortion) from cyanoacrylate (principal component in superglue) and it doesn't hold up so well to outside weather conditions over the long term. Would hate to see letters fall out and get lost.

I've used 3M emblem adhesive cement (available in auto parts stores) in the red and white tube. Need to be careful with this as it will degloss the plastic lens if it gets on it. I usually apply it with a q-tip and then press the emblem or letter into place. Use blue masking tape to hold them in place if you need to run the car before the adhesive is fully cured.

KDirk

[Guest my3buicks]

If you use super glue use the gel type to help alleviate the possibility of it running down across the taillight if you get a little to much on

[Machiner 55]

After removing the letters, I cleaned the recessed areas with a scraper made from a plastic McDonalds knife.

I think I used something like WD-40 and a Q-tip as well to remove the old adhesive and followed with alcohol to prep the surface.

To replace the letters, I used 3M brand Molding tape. The packaging says it's good for attaching vehicle body side moldings, trims and emblems.

The body of the tape is a grey double backed foam about 1/32" thick. It required careful trimming with a sharp pair of scissors and E-xacto knife.

I felt that it was pretty close to the original mounting material. It's been a year and they're still on.

John F.

Edited November 17, 2014 by Machiner 55 (see edit history)

[Ronnie]

I also used the 3M doublesided foam tape to install letters on my taillight. It worked perfect and looks factory. I stuck the tape to the back of the letter first. Using an Xacto knife I cut excess tape away leaving only the shape of the letter. Then I peeled the tape off the other side of the foam tape and stuck the letters on the taillight. Like John said, getting the taillight clean is important.

[Barney Eaton]

I like silicon sealant/caulk (clear) I have used it to hold speakers to the underside of the dash in older cars. It works great on hubcap emblems as it will absorb shock.

It take a few hours to dry so apply the letters with the sealant then tape the letter(s) in place and let set overnight.

[Gottabblackngray]

I believe it is 3M strips I have at the Bodyshop they come in a pack and it is like adhesive in a tube but without the mess. You set your letters on the tape and press then you pull off and adhesive is stuck to underside of letter very simple to get a good install without any adhesive showing where you don't want it. They are very slick and easy to use for those scripted type emblems that double backed tape would be time consuming

[Machiner 55]

GottaB&G,

Those of us not in the auto-body biz no not of such things.

If you could post a pic. of the stuff or part/catalog # of that stuff, that would be great.

John F.

[DAVES89]

I did as in posts 5&6 but am really interested in post 8 for future use.

[raleets]

You guys are the greatest!

Many thanks for all your input and suggestions. I'm confident I can handle this assignment.

[Gottabblackngray]

It is 3M called Press In Place emblem adhesive #08069

[Guest Kitskaboodle]

Several years back I bought one of those plastic pry tool kits (to remove door panels) from Harbor Freight and I use the two smallest /thinnest ones to remove the letters. I did use my bench grinder (with a 6" fine grinding wheel on it) to make them extra thin & narrow to better remove the letters.

Kit

[jbeary]

Used a dental pick and they popped right off. I'm surprised no one mentioned taking these out if you plan to buff out the plastic. The chrome on these letters is very thin. Also used the regular hardware store 3M outdoor double sided foam tape like Machiner applied as described by Ronnie. So far so good. I use the silicone adhesive/sealant that Barney described for all sorts of other stuff. It's great when used to adhere speaker cloth to ABS frames. Sticky as all get out and a little goes a long way. Dries very clear too.

[Guest ensign83]

For bigger jobs like side moulding, fishing line works well...