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DAVES89

Pulling a tranny

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What is the "backyard" mechanic's procedure to pull a tranny on the Reatta. Can someone post how they would pull one and what tools are required. Is pulling the engine with the tranny the best way [and that would be through the top] or just the tranny and dropping it through the bottom? How much time to allow?

Thanks guys...

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This past spring I swapped out the trans in my Toronado, Took out thru the bottom. I have air power so it went pretty fast. The only special tool needed was the support for the engine which I rented for $15. It took the whole day, the hardest part was getting to the bolts for the steering rack and then wiring it up to the support. It is a great time to replace the sub frame bushings and any broken motor mounts. I hope you are not planning to do it in the cold. After I did this I found a garage the will rent a bay by the hour or the day. One other note get a creeper to save your back. Hope all goes well!

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Don't forget the one tranny bolt that faces the passenger side. Took nearly every extension I could find.

It is also a great time to replace all of the freeze plugs with brass ones.

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All of my Transmission/Engine swaps on FWD cars have been Saturn SL cars. I have not done a Reatta yet but the process would be the same. All have been pulled out of the top, engine with trans. Engine Hoist is need with lots of other tools. On my first R&R, I went slowly and took 1 day for removal and another for the reinstall. now that I have done this 6 times, I can do an R&R in a day. Things I can think of you would not need to loosen or remove by pulling it out of the top would be the Engine Cradle bolts and the strut on the left side where you would have to pull the trans out of that area if pulling the trans only out the bottom.

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I just found a recent rebuilt transmission. According to the yard it has 5500 miles on a rebuild. No core charge. $150.00 plus shipping [$60.00]. I am familiar with the yard and they have an excellent reputation.

I am keeping the Black running.

We just have to get the tranny swapped on my buddy's son's mini van and then I am next.

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This past spring I swapped out the trans in my Toronado, Took out thru the bottom. I have air power so it went pretty fast. The only special tool needed was the support for the engine which I rented for $15. It took the whole day, the hardest part was getting to the bolts for the steering rack and then wiring it up to the support. It is a great time to replace the sub frame bushings and any broken motor mounts. I hope you are not planning to do it in the cold. After I did this I found a garage the will rent a bay by the hour or the day. One other note get a creeper to save your back. Hope all goes well!

My buddy has a three car heated garage but no lift. We will be on our backs. He has both a tranny jack as well as a "cherry picker" to hold the engine plus two floor jacks and air. I think we will be fine. He is a very good mechanic so my comfort level will be fine. It may seem like I made a big jump from trying a shift modulator, but I knew the tranny was going and this one just came up so I jumped on it. About 18 months ago [10-15000 miles ago] I had the car in for a complete trans service. When they dropped the pan [i was watching through the window just then] I saw the mechanic reach in the pan and pull out a seal or something like that. I took it to a guy I know who runs a transmission shop and he said drive the car like you stole it and when the tranny starts really acting up get it rebuilt or replaced. Well it really started acting up and I want to move fast because it really makes things harder getting major things done on a car you want to drive when the winter gets bad. And this is my winter Reatta, not the Red.

So looking at the next ten days weather wise we should not be getting a lot of snow. So now is the time.

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I'm thinking as long as we are pulling the tranny, how hard is it to replace the rear main seal if it is needed? What is the procedure?

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If you decide to pull only the trans the only other thing to remove is the flex plate. Pull the seal with a hooked tool (seal puller is a two sided hook with a handle). Oil the new seal and install with a large socket or something the same size as the hard part of the seal and tap in with a mallet. Reinstall the flex plate and torque to spec. Your done

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Be very careful using the aforementioned seal puller, you can easily scratch the crankshaft seal surface. A better method is to use a small drill bit, smaller than an 1/8 inch, drill two opposing holes in the metal seal face, being careful to not touch the crank or the seal bore, install 2 appropriate size metal screws and gently pry under the screw heads to ease the seal out of the bore. A slide hammer with screw tips works better if you have that setup.

If the seal shows no leakage, it may be best to leave it alone.

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A slide hammer with screw tips works better if you have that setup.

Like zees...

post-67519-143142833333_thumb.jpg

This was done to pull freeze plugs but, as TJ55 says, works great for pulling seals.

Hate to see someone replace the seal after removing the old one with a seal puller then scratch their head wondering why, after installing a new seal, it leaks worse than before.

John F.

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I thought the 89 has the rope seal where you drop the oil pan and the rear main cap? This was changed in 1990 I believe?

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Tranny swap happens on Saturday. I bought the two piece rear main seal. Hope all goes well. Putting many miles on the Red. Just this week so far over 700 miles. Using it for work in the snow/salt. Have no choice as I only run Reattas and until the swap is done the "Red" is it...

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Got a call from my buddy tonight. It needs a power steering pump, Rack and Pinion and should get axle seals as well. Have to make calls tomorrow.

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And so it goes.

As most of us who have performed major surgery on older high mileage cars learned long ago, you have to expect the unexpected.

One of my tranny swaps took an extra 4 days to complete because a worn out CV joint fell apart when removed, and it took that long to secure a correct replacement and get it installed.

I have complete confidence that you will overcome these setbacks Dave and come out of them with a much better and stronger Reatta to show for it.

Somebody is contemplating another tranny swap on that Select 60 that just sold on E-Bay. Anyone on this forum going to fess up?

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Heck Dave,

With all that done you just need to fix the light show and the Black will be a nice solid car again. Guess you'll be hanging on to it now.

KDirk

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Actually the light show works about 75% of the time so that is good. I checked through my purchase slips and it appears the Black got a bit more work then I thought. I have a lifetime warranty on the pump and the rack and pinion., so they will be free. However I need a starter. Tranny is in and the subframe goes in on Monday after the rack and pinion and pump shows up.

Looks like I will be back on the road soon.

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Kdirk sorry I didn't respond to your statement regarding keeping the car. I had thought on numerous occasions to selling it, but the motor is such a strong runner that I just can't see getting rid of it. I've replaced the following in the last 3-4 years;

windshield, front/rear struts, rack and pinion [now again], power steering pump, starter, outer tie rods. I will get the seats repaired [or replaced. I am leaning toward leather Buick Regal seats, excellent color match] and you have seen the car and it still looks good.

Besides I like having a matching car to swap parts from/to when doing repairs. It makes diagnostic real simple.

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Guilty

the select 60 tranny swap will be my winter project. i will buy a rebuilt one rather than use the parts car one.

i plan to do it on my back with air tools.

it is not my first rodeo. I recall they come out easier than they go in.

And so it goes.

As most of us who have performed major surgery on older high mileage cars learned long ago, you have to expect the unexpected.

One of my tranny swaps took an extra 4 days to complete because a worn out CV joint fell apart when removed, and it took that long to secure a correct replacement and get it installed.

I have complete confidence that you will overcome these setbacks Dave and come out of them with a much better and stronger Reatta to show for it.

Somebody is contemplating another tranny swap on that Select 60 that just sold on E-Bay. Anyone on this forum going to fess up?

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Just got the car back from the transmission shop. Everything is good. A minor adjustment of the cable and the addition of 3 quarts transmission fluid and it shifts like a dream. Car is running great. Of course it should as it just got a tranny, power steering pump, rack and pinion and two front strut mounts. Monday it gets an alignment and I should be set.

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