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Raising a VIN number on a block?


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Ok, so I know there is a number on the engine and a number on the frame in a Model A Ford. I also know the locations of both. What I need to know is how can someone raise the numbers on the block of the engine if they are worn smooth? I have used tracing paper to no avail. I have used paint remover to reveal the engine blank, but no lettering or numbers. I have searched with a magnifying glass, but can't make out any numbers.<P>Now, I know the block and the frame numbers may not agree, as a 70 some-odd-year-old car may have had several engines in it or even a new frame or two installed in it's past. I do not want to pull the fender or body to see about any numers on the frame. I just want to see the numbers raised on the engine block.<P>Anyone with any great ideas on this? Would pool acid etch it enough to reveal anything?<P>huey<p>[This message has been edited by coupe1942 (edited 09-08-2000).]

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FORD REPLACMENT ENGINES WERE FURNISHED FROM THE FACTORY SANS ENGINE NUMBERS THE DEALERS STAMPED YOUR OLD NUMBER ONTO THE REPLACMENT.I HAVE SEEN MANY 'A' ENGINES WITHOUT NUMBERS DUE TO THE DEALER FAILING TO STAMP THE REPLACMENT.THERE ARE REPRO METAL STAMPS AVAILIBLE TO STAMP OR RESTAMP FORD ENGINES.PHIL

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My model A compressor motor is without a number on the boss above the water outlet. My understanding is many of the replacement motors that were ordered came without numbers, so that the car vin number could be stamped into the block upon replacement.<BR>Mike

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Yeah, I have heard that is correct. I do not know if my engine was one or not. I almost bought a set of numbers to do such with at Harbor Freight once. Supposedly it is illegal to make such an alteration, but I have never heard of anyone having been caught before.<P>I have already written for a vin number with the state. It would be my luck to try to stamp the block and somehow crack the blamed thing as I hit the stamp. Airconditioning in the block is not something I want, having had a 216 engine throw a rod out it's side<BR>once. Ha!<P>Thanks for the info,<BR>Huey

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YEARS AGO THER WERE STAMP SETS FOR FORDS WICK WERE THE SAME STYLE AS THE ORIGINAL,ALSO INCLUDED THE STAR AND OTHER SYMBOLS WHICH WERE CORRECT FOR FORDS.I HAVE NOT SEEN ONE OF THESE SETS FOR YEARS.THE MODEL'A' FORD CLUB HAD ONE OF THESE SETS AVAILIBLE FOR THE MEMBERS TO CREATE MATCHING NUMBERS BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE TITLE.PHIL

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I am no expert, but if you are sure there is a number there, instead of trying to 'bring it up', try filling it in. Try something like your wife or kids black acrylic paint and wipe gently while still wet to only fill in any ridges. It may help you see if any numbers really are (or were) there. Sorry if this is a dumb answer for you. Just a females logic trying to help. Good luck.

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I tried this when I did the tracing paper techinque. Thanks though,<BR>Huey<P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sulky@europe.com:<BR><B>I am no expert, but if you are sure there is a number there, instead of trying to 'bring it up', try filling it in. Try something like your wife or kids black acrylic paint and wipe gently while still wet to only fill in any ridges. It may help you see if any numbers really are (or were) there. Sorry if this is a dumb answer for you. Just a females logic trying to help. Good luck.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>

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  • 2 weeks later...

Years ago, when actively involved in coin collecting, I was interested in reading the date on buffalo nickels. They are common with the dates worn away. The coin shop sold a mild acid solution for doing just this. It worked great on these nickels, and should work on the cast iron also.

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huey:<P>I have been in the foundry and machine shop business for years. To uncover hairline cracks in castings, we use blue dye penetrant for a quick and dirty check. A lot cheaper than ex-rays.<P>You could check with an Industrial Supply House, or, if you know anyone who works/owns a machine shop, check with them.<P>My own experience, and, based upon the smoothness of the area, leads me to believe that there never was any numbers stamped. If there were, you should at least see a trace of the numbers, or, if it was ground off, you should see "wheel grit grind marks".<P>------------------<BR>heizmann<BR>senior member

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Happy as a cat that just ate the tweety bird! Got the VIN number installed and got the plates to drive. Washed the car and began crusin the town. Got many a stop, many a nice comment, and had a wonderful time. going to work will be a nice ride in the future!<P>Huey<BR>Don't really have to worry about it now, as I have just been informed today that the Kentucky DMV just provided me with a new VIN number and I can register the car tomorrow. Would come at a time when I had the floorboards out of the car though.<P>Any rate, the blue dye seems interesting and I'll have to check it out.<P>Thanks,<BR>Huey <p>[This message has been edited by coupe1942 (edited 09-22-2000).]

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Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)

Years ago, someone told me that the police had a method of determining the serial number of recovered stolen items even if it had been ground off. The process involved using acid. The guy who told me this was a notorious liar and know-it-all, so I never really believed it. Maybe he was telling the truth. (for once!)

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