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Dropping the pan and which oil to use??


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Removing the pan is not too difficult. Remove the starter and exhaust cross over pipe; disconnect the "wishbone" axle strut at the rear ball cap, pry down the wishbone so pan will have clearance to be removed. Un-fasten all the pan cap screws and lower the pan. Before lowering the pan secure the oil level float assembly with a piece of tape to the indicator plate on the intake manifold. This will keep the float from interfering with pan removal. Alter the pan is out you can un-screw the "button" on the float rod and remove the old float assembly from below. when reassembling, insert the new (repaired) float and secure the rod to the intake manifold. It's very important to line up the pan when reinstalling due to the cork seal over the rear main cap. The front face of the transmission casting will be the guide. A transmission jack will be useful in lifting the pan in place. When the pan is within about 1/2" to 3/4" from the crankcase lower the oil float assembly into the oil pan. You might want to replace the oil pump if it still has the old style pump with a "snorkel" intake. New style pumps (Melling 15 or 19) have greater capacity. If you choose to do this you will have to modify the oil pan tray for pump screen clearance if it's not been done already.

New oil float and pan gasket set are available from Earle Brown (see sources). He also can supply all engine parts. These cars original used 30 and 40 weight oils but if the engine is still fairly tight you can probably use 10-40 or 20-50 if the oil pressure is on the low side. From the pic of your engine I can't tell if it's actually a '37? It appears to have later model components...intake manifold, vent tube and air cleaner along with the post war cylinder heads.

Forgot to add: you may have to remove the drag link from the steering gear pitman arm to get enough clearance to remove the pan.

Edited by peecher (see edit history)
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