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Dual Quad Project


Guest gdiwicker
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Guest gdiwicker

Hey All,

Just when I thought I was done with the engine, I got a smoking deal on a dual quad intake of a 66 for my 64. Supposedly the air cleaner is on it's way and I'll start work on restoring those two pieces. Other than that I have no idea what I'd need to plop this bad boy on the block and get the most out of it. I have a carter afb (650, I think) currently on it a stock intake and a polished finned valley pan under that.

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The bosses on a 65/66 intake are different than the 64 so expect some issues with getting the kick down set up to work. The 65/66 kick down switch and bracket are different than the 64 and will give you challenges trying to make work correctly on a 66 manifold. The trans vacuum line from the rear carb is different. You will need a different rear air conditioning bracket if converting from stock steel valve covers to the aluminum ones. A few minor differences in the brake vacuum line and the pcv line also.

Been there done this.

Larry

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest gdiwicker

Okay my last post didn't go through last week so I need some more info. The carter is a 625 and I'd like to just get another afb if that'll work. Really I just need to know where I can get all the parts I need and details on how I . Please check out my photo album-the engine is featured on the last few pictures of the album. Let me know if you see anything that needs to be replaced or modified.

MSD Dist

Finned Valve covers with a modified ac bracket up front

https://www.facebook.com/ryan.wicker.355/media_set?set=a.1161694398354.2025551.1107645965&type=3

Thanks in advance y'all!

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I'd like to help but I'm not a facebooker and can't see your pictures. If you're not running the factory type carbs front and rear, you're going to have some real fun trying to get two single four barrel carburetors to work in sync. The linkage on the factory front (choke less carb) has different geometry in the linkage that allows it to open later but get to wide open throttle at the same time as the primary carb. Running "frankencarbed" engines is a real PITA.

Ed

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Like Ed, I am not a facebooker either, and cannot see pictures.

Have not checked for awhile, but it used to be the intakes were a dime a dozen and the carbs were made out of verypricium.

I am not saying that you cannot make two non-original dual-quad carbs work IF you are a carb guru with a world of parts OR independently weathly with no desire to stay that way. However, in the long run, MUCH less expensive to just buy a set of Buick dual quad carbs.

Jon.

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Guest gdiwicker

The link is public and takes you straight to the gallery. Thanks for the info y'all, sounds like its really involved and discouragingpost-53265-143142808181_thumb.jpg for someone who's never done a setup like this. :confused:.

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A project such as yours CAN be involved; but is much simplified by using original parts from the same year.

Someone has to be the engineer. If you are using original parts, the engineering is done for you. If you are constructing from incorrect parts, the engineer is you.

Jon.

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Guest gdiwicker

Ha! You know what they say about assumptions...

Well, I assumed the intake was for a 66 since it was painted red but I got around to looking up the casting number and I think its a 64!!! 1357106. Confirm? If so can I use a carter afb that I already have (9637)? If so, what do I use for the front carb? I haven't been able to find a matching chokeless carb from the same series.

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Unless you run both carbs syncronized*, you'll play havoc trying to tie the secondary carb to the primary one. The secondary carb doesn't open until the primary carb is at about 60% throttle, but they both open to 100% throttle at the same time. You need to be a mathematical genius to figure out the geometry on that. If you're truly set on having a dual carb setup, be patient and find the correct carbs. They will show up, but you need to be prepared to pay for them.

Ed

* Jon, at The Carburetor Shop, explains this on his website www.thecarburetorshop.com

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Guest gdiwicker

The 625 list is on page four. Again mine is the 9637. Since non of the other 625ers have a manual choke I'm kind of at a loss. Can you convert an electric choke to a chokeless?

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If you are bound and determined to use the wrong carbs, YES, you can convert an electric choke model to chokeless:

(1) grind off the back side of the screws holding the choke plate to the choke shaft

(2) remove these screws

(3) remove the choke plate

(4) remove the clip and choke rod from the choke shaft

(5) remove the choke shaft

(6) remove the 3 screws holding the electric cap onto the choke housing

(7) remove the cap

(8) remove the clip and operating rod from the choke housing

(9) remove the 3 screws holding the choke housing to the main body

(10) remove the choke housing

(11) plug the vacuum source using a tiny split shot sinker

(12) plug the 2 holes in the airhorn for the choke shaft using aluminum drive plugs (N/A - make them on your lathe)

(13) READ THE THIRD LINE IN MY SIGNATURE!

Carb is now chokeless.

Don't be surprised if you are less than happy with the results (unless your goal is to produce eye candy that doesn't run).

Jon.

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You don't have a KX coded engine, don't worry about the nit-picking details. Without the correct carb numbes and the correct engine code, you're just running two fours on a single four barrel engine. Did you read Jon's comments on dual fours on his website? Makes a lot of sense if you want them to give you ultimate performance. In short: two identical carbs - two chokes - run both carbs in sync (the primary AND secondary carbs work in unison) - both carbs run idle circuits. Don't try to second guess him or you'll be the epitomy of the third line in his signature.

Ed

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