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Lancemb's 57 Roadmaster Facelift


Smartin

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… As the self appointed village voice for caution, I would like to add, you may want to reconsider the re-chroming of the front and rear bumpers. First off they look pretty darn good in Smartin's photo set and cannot understand why a recharge is needed. Secondly, especially since most shops today chrome via the Trivalent process which is essentially a dye job and shows a crisp whitish hue in shine upon completion.

Thanks David. I don't understand the scientific difference between the two methods; why the change?

The front bumper center was rechromed when my dad had the car painted in about 1974, because there was a dent in it that was repaired. The rest of the front (except for upper grille bar) is either NOS or otherwise original, and will probably not be touched anytime soon as it is pretty nice. The rear bumper end on the passenger side was replaced and rechromed by me soon after getting the car out of hibernation, as it was in terrible condition. The rear center and driver side end are pretty nice, but have small flecks that require frequent polishing from penetration of the chrome finish and are dulling. So, I may get those done at some point so they match the right side. In general, I've tried to use NOS or original parts on this car whenever possible though.

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May we ask what was the quote for each handle and were they fairly pitted? I need to get some spares rechromed and a good Hex shop would fill the bill.

$50 each, and were not too bad actually with just small dimples. However, didn't make sense to me to put them back on a new paint job, given that I'd have to pull the door apart again to change them later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think we have a match! Top and bottom. The top blue metallic flakes are a little bit more pronounced than the original, but I have never been able to duplicate the original metallic in any color from that era.

The blue stripe in the sweepspear has yet to be matched, mostly because we cannot locate a good sample yet.

I was finally able to get the top windshield and rear windshield trim off. It required me to remove the interior trim and pull the headliner down to access several nuts that held clips in place. Lance had already mentioned to me that he was replacing the headliner, but it didn't stop me from sweating this surgical procedure without ripping it.

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Since I now have matches for the paint, I started stripping the lower portion of the car this afternoon. This paint was THIIIIIICK. Tomorrow, I hope to get the other side done.

I am only stripping the lower section to bare metal, since it wasn't in the best condition and there is some paint popping from old repairs and lack of prep from the last paint job. The top section will have some spot repairs, but is a nice solid foundation for new paint. So far, there is no rust through anywhere. At this point, I don't plan to see any.

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Guest my3buicks

It's amazing how far off the original pictures color depiction are - if one was to go by the pictures and didn't have the actual hidden original paint you would think it was this combopost-30591-143142850322_thumb.jpg

Great match Adam

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Adam,

Nice color matching! Are you painting with lacquer or enamel w/ hardener? Also, are you using any type of chemical stripper to remove the paint? If, so, would like to know what brand. Going to be doing that soon on my wagon. Keep up the good work!

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I'm going with BC/CC. No single stage stuff for me, unless it is specified by the customer.

Today, I started off with 40 grit on a D/A. It was going decently fast, but I was looking at the entire side of the car wondering if I could do it faster. So I pulled out my trusty grinder and a twisted wire wheel. It goes reasonably faster, but I still have to go over it with the DA afterwards to get the leftovers off and scuff the metal. So, I went to Hope Depot and bought the strongest stripper they have. Klean Strip Color Change Stripper....it was on clearance for $20 a gallon.

While I was wire wheeling, I let the stripper do its job. So I flip-flopped back and forth between the two until the top layers were all off. Once the whole side was done with those two media, I used the DA with 40 grit to clean it up.

I really really really dislike this part of the job.

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It's amazing how far off the original pictures color depiction are - if one was to go by the pictures and didn't have the actual hidden original paint you would think it was this combo[ATTACH=CONFIG]283023[/ATTACH]

Great match Adam

It does indeed look quite different in the vintage photos. Assuming I didn't have the color codes from the cowl tag, I would have guessed completely wrong.

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Adam,

I agree with you on that. The chemical stripper is a real pain-in-the-a$$ to work with, but seems to do the job ok, with some follow up on the grinder sander, it looks like.

Regarding the paint, and only having done single stage top coats, and 2 stage primers, any issues or secret knowledge that is to be had in the application or finishing?

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Not really...but laying the basecoat is different than painting single stage. You don't want to lay it on too thick, otherwise it will sag badly. Several light coats. And don't try to make it look like a slick clear coat when you apply the last coat. That is where you get in trouble with sagging. The base dries with a matte finish. When you get to the clear coat, do not spray the coats too close together time-wise...or you will end up with sags and drips off the edges of the panels. On a two tone car like this, spray both colors first, then clear the whole car.

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IMO: Since you guys are concerned with true color match why on earth would one want to use a base coat / clear coat on a 1957 job when you can use one product as a single stage urethane and as a bonus it will actually in end Look like the original color matched enamel or lacquer with matching hue, texture and contrast the most important elements in color matching if one has the ability to control their gun, layout and patterns. BC/CC jobs never render that and yield a final look much like a ladies glossy painted nails manicure job with absolutely no depth of contrast. You still have to cut and wet sand when your finished if you go with either the clear coat or a single stage urethane. You can also tweak a urethane on the final coat by adding reducer so as to render a look very very close to cars original lacquer paint or don't reduce and make it look like acrylic enamel. You cannot do that with BC/CC jobs. It just comes down to one's ability to apply either paint system the best. However with that said, Clear coat jobs were invented for fast assembly line or " In n Out" paint jobs and look it. Clear coat jobs look and belong on 1990 Saabs or 2002 Porsches not a 57 Buick wanting to look original.

O.K. now you guys can go back to ignoring what I said and paint it using BC/CC.

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Cutting and wet sanding single stage metallic paint makes it look mottled...in my experience. I understand the "original" look, but I also like to work with BC/CC and to me, looks better.

If this was a 400pt trailer queen, it would weigh more on what paint I used, but I am fairly sure this is not what Lance is going for.

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I am all for originality for the most part, but not if it isn't practical. It is fine with me if the new paint is glossier than the original. I want it to look nice and match well, but I do plan to drive and show the car.

Can't wait to see the other side stripped! Glad the metal is in good shape

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It's amazing how far off the original pictures color depiction are - if one was to go by the pictures and didn't have the actual hidden original paint you would think it was this combo[ATTACH=CONFIG]283023[/ATTACH]

Great match Adam

Yep, that's faded early 1970's photo technology for you! The old pictures do seem to seem to concur that there isn't tangerine in the sweepspear though!

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Just a quick update before I go burn the rest of my day with family...

The left side lower section is stripped. I found a small bit of rot-through at the lead joint on the dog leg. It was a swollen spot under the paint already, so I figured I would have something to repair. The other side is not quite this bad, but will require a small patch.

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Guest Skyking
Cutting and wet sanding single stage metallic paint makes it look mottled...in my experience.

You are so correct with not wet sanding a S/S metallic paint job. You'll see layers on layers of the metallic changing shades. It will look awful when finished. I only use S/S on solid colors.

Bob

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You are so correct with not wet sanding a S/S metallic paint job. You'll see layers on layers of the metallic changing shades. It will look awful when finished. I only use S/S on solid colors.

Bob

I wonder if that's why the top color that was repainted on it looks weird. It has inconsistent coloration all over.

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Good points fellas. However, I was referring to a solid color in my analysis above. If you are painting a metallic S.S. and know how to adjust the gun and tweak the paint you should not have to color sand it but yes it can be sanded carefully if need be. One needs a good gun and I mean a compliant gun and tip not an HVLP rig. The problems with S.S. paints is many apply it using HVLP guns which are IMO really moon lighting as orange peel guns. Great for the new car OEM fast lane repaint match up jobs but for fine feathering and even full applications not as good. The compliant guns can mimic the old conventional guns and thus make mimicking a lacquer job so much more easier. If I can do it so can you. Yes the BC/CC is easy and forgiving and thus I understand your approach. It takes however the same amount of time to prep for a good C.C. job as for a S.S. job. But make no mistake about the finished product lancemb, the difference between a base coat / clear coat job and a single stage applied correctly is day and night. … just my 2 cents.

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Guest Skyking
Good points fellas. However, I was referring to a solid color in my analysis above. If you are painting a metallic S.S. and know how to adjust the gun and tweak the paint you should not have to color sand it but yes it can be sanded carefully if need be. One needs a good gun and I mean a compliant gun and tip not an HVLP rig. The problems with S.S. paints is many apply it using HVLP guns which are IMO really moon lighting as orange peel guns. Great for the new car OEM fast lane repaint match up jobs but for fine feathering and even full applications not as good. The compliant guns can mimic the old conventional guns and thus make mimicking a lacquer job so much more easier. If I can do it so can you. Yes the BC/CC is easy and forgiving and thus I understand your approach. It takes however the same amount of time to prep for a good C.C. job as for a S.S. job. But make no mistake about the finished product lancemb, the difference between a base coat / clear coat job and a single stage applied correctly is day and night. … just my 2 cents.

Agreed, it takes a very experienced painter, with the correct gun to paint single stage metallic paint, more so if the parts being painted are separated.

Bob

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Guest Skyking
I don't intend to practice painting on a paying job, so I will spray what I know, and it will look damn good ;)

At least, that's the idea.

Adam, do your thing. I was just posting from my experience. I would also paint it the way you are.:cool:

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Adam: I know it will look good for a BC/CC job as can be expected. Your a detail man and your projects have shown that time and time again. But with that said, I think we've made our points regarding the use of BC/CC jobs on 50's & 60's drivers or even show queens for that matter.

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Well it looks like I've found a piece of trim to match off of! Here is a picture of the trim piece I found and one from an unrestored car with the blue trim for comparison. I feel confident now that I've got something for Adam to match up! The lighting is a bit different, but they look about the same to me. The one looks a tad lighter too as it appears to have been faded a bit, especially around the edges, by repeated polishing.

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Cool! I started masking the masking yesterday and ran out of paper...so it will have to wait until I can get back to the supply store.

My plan is to have it in primer at the beginning of the week of the 15th. Body work to be complete toward the end of the week, and in paint over the weekend. :)

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Guest my3buicks

I have also seen a couple original cars with the blue trim as well as the green - the color looks spot on to what I remember them looking like.

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Last night, epoxy primer went on. This morning, the first coat of 2K high build primer went on. It sure is cool to see projects like this in all one color! I spent the remainder of the day smoothing some ripples and door dings. I have a couple more small spots to hit tomorrow morning, then will do one final coat of primer. Once that is dry, I will block sand again. And again.

I bought paint for it today. Good paint is EXPENSIVE.

I had set a goal of paint by the end of this week, but I might be doing it sooner. Body work is minimal on this car. Literally the only rust anywhere was at the rear dog legs where the lead joint is on both sides. I have already cut the bad stuff out and welded in small patches. There were some areas that Lance and I were worried about on the doors where the paint was bubbling, but it appears that the drivers door and left front fender had been worked on in the past, and the body filler failed...causing it to lift and crack the paint.

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Paint tomorrow :) I realized that I walked out of the supply store without reducer for the basecoat. Doh! Slight detour to the store, then will begin shooting. If all goes well, clear should be on the car late tomorrow, or Thursday morning. The clear has to be applied within 24 hours of basecoat, otherwise the base must be scuffed and coated again before clearing.

I can't sleep.

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Guest 4 bufords
Basecoat is applied! Clear tomorrow morning. I'm tired of huffing fumes.

adam,when you painted the car,did you paint the blue down to the chrome trim first?car lookin great,4 bufords from ct

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