devildog93 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Ok, it's a bit late for this in some areas, but i was wondering what gauge of sheet metal people are using for replacement panels. I have measured a lot of the metal i have cut out in rusted areas and it comes out to be around .050. The replacement sheet metal panels i got from c2c for the floors seemed to be around 18 gauge and this seems pretty close. I grabbed a 3' x 3' sheet of 16 gauge just to check it against and play with. The best i can tell by gauging it is that the original sheet metal is around 17 gauge, somewhere around .051-.053. Does anyone have a preference on sheet metal thickness and any tips on the type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bb1970 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 I used a roof panel from a Subaru mini van looking thing. Because I liked the contour of the front of the roof to patch my quarter panels. Haven't a clue on the tickness. But I played hell not blowing through it mig welding it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 I only have the quarters and a trunk patch to make. I have a 3x3 sheet of 16 gauge i'm going to try and use depending on how well i can work it with the shrinker/stretcher jaws. If it turns out to be a pain in the ass i will try to go find some 18 gauge. Don't think i want to go any thinner than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RivinitUP Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 If it doesn't work. Let me know, I can cut some metal sections for the trunk or quarter sections let me know I can cut it out of the 64 parts car I picked up. I've got the replacement panel for the passenger side floor pan and the front driver section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 I use 20 gauge mostly but keep 18 for certain things. I have also used 22 with no problem. Obviously 20 or even 22 is easier to work with when a lot forming and flanging is required but 18 is more forgiving when it comes to actual welding....especially when butt welding. Personally I think 16 is heavier than necessary for anything related to panels. If rebuilding structural members it would be more applicable. If I had only one choice for thickness I'd pick 20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Ok, it's a bit late for this in some areas, but i was wondering what gauge of sheet metal people are using for replacement panels. I have measured a lot of the metal i have cut out in rusted areas and it comes out to be around .050. The replacement sheet metal panels i got from c2c for the floors seemed to be around 18 gauge and this seems pretty close. I grabbed a 3' x 3' sheet of 16 gauge just to check it against and play with. The best i can tell by gauging it is that the original sheet metal is around 17 gauge, somewhere around .051-.053. Does anyone have a preference on sheet metal thickness and any tips on the type?it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. correct show quality repairs, nice driver repairs, nice work for a low budget driver?I think you are right that the metal is a bit thicker than 18g, but my junk is so horrible so who knows? I think 18 is too heavy for 1/4's....I'm gonna use 18g on my 65 trunk floor since I have it. 20g on the bottom 1/4 area & rear window fixes.20/22 is way easier to work with, that's what we used on NATIONWIDE & ARCA bodies. all those seams were overlapped 1/2" or so(stepped with a bead roller so the outside of the panels outside is flush) mig spot welded around 1" apart...easy & fast to do but maybe not so good for the street. there is a great article on metal meet discussing this topic. if you have a showcar,keeper or just want professional quality repair, you need to butt weld in the replacement panels. Tig welding is best but way slow. Most body shops just use Mig There is nothing wrong with a skimcoat of bondo, that what it was created for. a 220v Mig lets you actually run the weld a bit hotter since it burns thru the whole panel(again look it up on metalmeet)you can't just weld it up continously, you have to spot it in & bounce around. you will always have to stretch out the HAZ(heat affected zone) etc. you probably know all of this, I kinda was addressing a comment farther down.feel free to email me in you need more info, I don't get out here alotgood luck post pixks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Thanks for the info. This vehicle is going to be a daily driver, so show quality isn't what i'm going for, though i'm trying to get it as close to right as i can. I have a 220v mig welder i am working with. It has tig capability but my skill level probably isn't up to that. Maybe i will try a bit of tig on the next car, but definitely not now. I think i will give the metalmeet site a look and do a bit more info gathering. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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