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Chefcg1

20" wheels for "65 flat black riviera

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No issues at all. I guess my center cap solution will have to be either disk brake conversion, wheel spacer, or a lower profile dust cap.

with those ideas I need to ask did the disk brake conversion make that much of a differance?

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I'm really happy with my dics brake conversion . They fill way better then what I had on the car before.

That's good you didn't have any problems with clearing I had to run a spacer to clear rivets,

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good to hear about the brake conversion, it may be one of my winter projects. Did you do front and rear or just fronts?

Well I spoke to fast about fitment. It seems that my rears are hitting my exhaust on the inner side as it goes over the axel. I didn't notice it when I put them on as the rear was jacked up, but I guess when I lowered it down it makes contact. I think a 7/16" spacer all the way around will remedy all my issues and keep everything even.

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I just did the front maybe someday ill get to the back..

I had to remove my over axle pipe when I did the air ride it hit really bad when the car was lowered all the way down. Are you running 20x10 in the rear??

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well the drama continues. I tried the wheel spacers in the rear, but my studs are not long enough!!!! It seems they do not make longer studs. Not sure what I'm going to try at this point. I may try a close wheel stud size and see if that will work in something close to 2" in length. I saw Dorman makes 6120-449 which is close to the rear specs....Thoughts anyone?

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You don't have to find longer studs. I'm running 1" spacers on my truck. They have there own studs for mounting my wheels.

I think Casey (Cstang) has the same type of spacers on his Riv.

BTW…welcome to the forum. Your ride is looking sharp. Thx for sharing. Pls fill in your profile with at least a first name…we are all humans here lol

David

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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David,

What you're running are usually called wheel adapters - bolt it to the axle, then bolt the wheel to the adapter; they come in various widths. Spacers are just that - holes in a disk that require you to use the existing lug bolts and nuts.

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I purchased just 1/4 inch spacers. and just did not have enough thread to mount safely. So I went ahead and purchased a set of ET lugs and see if that will give me at least 10 turns on the lugs so that I feel safe with there mounting.

I took your advice & RivNut's and took some time and filled out my profile with some more information, uploaded some photo's....now I'm a person...YEAH!

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I ended up purchasing some 1" spacers for the rear that worked just fine. I may use the 1/4 spacer in the front to get past the Hub center dust cap and be able to mount my center caps that came with the Boss wheels. The issue with adding the spacer up front would be that the car is lowered about 2" and the wheels rub when turning tightly and if I push the fronts out more I may shorten that clearance even more, so for now I'm leaving it alone while I work on other Riviera projects. Some pics below.

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when I turn hard the front will hit inside fender. I just don't turn hard....

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Well the main thing i took out of this thread is that i should not have much of a problem if i go with 17s:o Thanks for that fellas. Good luck with your 20s, but i like to be able to use the whole turn radius and not worry about chewing up tires. By the way, if i didn't say it before, i really like the flat black paint. I read the car craft article where they shot a whole car in rustoleum pro flat black and after seeing yours i am definitely leaning that way now.

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Remember the circumference is the same on the wheels its the width that makes the difference and the fact that I'm lowered 2". I'm probably a 1/4" from full lock and I think I can improve that with a little work, but I need a second set of hands and a day off to move forward on that.

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The circumference is the same between 17" wheels and 20" wheels? How do you figure?

its the overall package with tires, Factory wheels are 15" and have a diameter of 725mm/28.8inch. my 20" with tires are 728mm/28.7inch a .4% difference. We are keeping the overall diameter as close as possible so that the car has the same speedo reading and handling characteristics. The width is what has changed and thus the rubbing. Check out the link bellow it give a good idea of fitment.

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/tire/1965/88505/buick_riviera_401_v-8.html

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Gotcha. Yea, i am keeping mine with the original stance, so no lowering, but i will probably play with the tiREs when i get to them to get what i want under it without rubbing. I would like to go 235 or 245/60 in the front and 275/60 in the back if at all possible, but i guess we will see.

Edited by devildog93 (see edit history)

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I cut my pipes to dump directly in front of tires. I'm still working out how to fit glass packs in, or if i even want them when i decide how the engine side of the exhaust is going to run.

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I spent some time with the car today and put 5/16th spacers on the front with ET lugs and now the front does not rub!!! it was rubbing on the inside frame not the fender it turned out. I can go full lock either way.

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Great news and congrats. So would ordering the wheels with a different backspacing been the way to get ahead of the problem you think?

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Yes, I think a 5mm. Offset up front would have solved the issue. I would not go wider than a 245 tire up front as I think you will start hitting the fender when turning. The rears I would go with a 10mm offset to clear factory exhaust. You have tones of space so width is not an issue.

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Exhaust won't be an issue. I will be remaking the exhaust from the manifolds back and will likely be dumping them just in front of the wheels. The exhaust was rusted out from the rear wheels back, so i cut it and dumped them in front of the rear wheels to experiment and see what it sounded like. With no muffler and straight pipes it still isn't real obnoxious. i will likely be experimenting with a glass pack or something then some turn-downs to send it away from the car and towards the ground and see what it sounds like there. After i try a couple of things i will get set on one thing or another and get to mocking it up. I will likely be another month in body work before i even get to that though.

I don't suppose the fronts have to be 245, it was just a leaning. 225 will be just fine. The rears are the important part for traction if i get it to the power level i am expecting but i still want it to keep a similar stance to yours. Just a quick, fun drive back and forth to work car that can cruise comfortably on the highway or hang out with the hot rod crew around town and not be the fat kid so to speak. A little sleeper action would be nice.

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