Rick Hoover Posted March 29, 2000 Share Posted March 29, 2000 Good deal Hal,<P>I really don't think you'll need the CS-20, if that's the slow one. The purpose of the medium I notice is that it helps fill better which is why you're using the Primeez in the first place. Maybe, try that first and see what you get. The #3095 will be great for painting, so hang on to it. Take note on the cans is a web site for M/S. I tried earlier to get in to the products section but something went wrong. See what you find. Curious to see what you think about priming this time, so let me know here.<P>Rick<P> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL) Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 I shot some more primer after work today. It was 75 deg so I used the CS-30 (medium)thinner. It was better but not right. In places, it appeared to be drying before it got to the fender (real rough texture). I had only mixed a small amount, so when I ran out, I mixed the next batch with CS-20 (slow). This seemed to work better, but still had rough texture except right in the middle of the spray pattern. I'm trying to keep the gun 8-10 inches away. I suppose I could try to get closer. I think I can salvage this prime job. It will just take a little more sanding. It scares me though that I could run into the same problem with the acrylic enamel that I intend to put on these fenders. That would not be so easily fixed. One more thought: The complex shape of these front fenders is probably the hardest piece of the car, and I just HAD to start on them first. There's so many places the overspray can fall when you're painting other areas of the fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronbarn Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Now I'm going to step in here with one of the most off-the-wall stories you've heard. I was experiencing a problem very similar to Hal's. I messed around with the paint/thinner/reducer formula. Varied the pressure and distance to surface, all with no improved results. After exhausting all other probable remedies, I took the gun apart and found that a confounded dirt doober had started a nest in the pick up tube. Cleared out the dirt and all went well. Down here in the south those little buggers are insideous. How he got into the paint gun beats me, but cleaning it out did the trick. The moral of that is make sure that paint gun is absolutely clean, right down to the inside of the pickup tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Hoover Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Man, I forgot to tell Hal about them buggers! I hate when that happens. ( Only joking, I never heard of that one before!<P>Hal, You fell short of saying you would try that THINNER!!! I really would wish you would try the #3095 (a little)<P>Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Binger Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 I want to see how you are gong to handel the interior when he gets to it.<P>Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Hoover Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 I ain't "gong to handel" any interior! I sublet out that job. What are you doing that day?<P>( I'll send you my old pocket dictionary!)<BR> It's OK Peter, I'll help him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jac Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Ron, I hope someone is taking notes on this <BR>paint job, because I think Model A Hal and Rick should give a seminar on " So you wanted to paint you car."<BR>later-jac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL) Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 I will try that one next, Rick. I'm sure that after I sand these things, it will be obvious that I need some more primer on them. It won't be long before I have to shoot another coat.<P>Ron, I'm pretty sure there's no dirt dobbers in there. The gun was brand new out of the box. I will, however, check to be sure there is no plastic or styrofoam packing in there.<p>[This message has been edited by MODEL A HAL (edited 03-30-2000).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Hoover Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Ah ha!<BR>That brings up a good question.<BR>What for gun ( brand and model ) are you using? And what number (#) gun nozzle tip is on it?<BR>This can cause a problem if you have the wrong nozzle.<P>Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL) Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 The very best Walmart had to offer! Seriously, it is a Campbell Hausfeld Professional Model. I don't have the model number or the nozzle size here at work. It is supposedly for automobile work. It was about $70.00. I know, I know, let me guess, you got to spend $300.00 to get one that does what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jac Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Hal, Two years is not bad. I had a Professional restore my '40 Ford and it took <BR>almost two years. <BR>later-jac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Binger Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Rick,<P>Is a low pressure high volume gun better thas the other? I was told that the gun that fees from the top is better than the ones that feed from the bottom. (Maybe I don't know what I am talking about)<P>Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Hoover Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 First to jac,<BR>Two Years? That's Quick!<P>Hal and Dan,<BR>I have used a HVLP gun and a Gravity gun, but I don't own any. The Gravity ( cup on top of gun ) one, just felt awkward which most will say it does, and then they tell me once you get use to it, you won't go back to a Siphon gun. I don't know. <BR>I myself, did not notice the lesser overspray with the HVLP gun. Again, no opinion. It's just a matter of old dogs vs. new tricks, I think. Maybe ( and I need to sit down and study up on these things soon )<BR>alot of these old habits will change with me in how the ever changing product lines evolve. Base Coat / Clear Coat product lines are something I have used a few times, and I'm sure these guns work well for this product.<BR>Again almost 90 percent of all my painting is acrylic enamel. I use all DeVilbiss MBC series equipment, except one Binks gun Model 18 for some primer work. These are Siphon guns and I have DeVILBISS Pressure guns I use for chassis' and large equipment items I get into from time to time.<BR>Hal,<BR>I hate to say this, but I really would consider looking into a better gun. Atleast for when we get into painting. See NAPA about showing you a "Sharpe" Siphon gun. A great gun for your painting would be a Sharpe "Advantage Line" Model 975PI. This gun, without cup unit is $181.00. Cup units are around $40.00. It could be a matter of pay now or pay later with your results in painting. (I cry here every day it seems, when these guys here tell me we need to buy this and that new and need it now. Yesterday, I made one of them, send back a $200.00 set of Snap-On crowsfeet wrenches he thought I had to have. He said mine was the old style.)<BR>There is also a NAPA "Balkamp" HVLP production gun they have for $129.00. It will pay to check things out with them or someone else. I won't knock your gun, but it may have a too large of a gun nozzle and may be causing a spraying problem for you. Primeez will spray different from the Trio-Prime etching primer you said went on fine.<BR>I know! Can you borrow from somebody, a better gun to see if it helps? Might save some guess work and money right now.<BR>Also, I think you will need to get that #3099 thinner. Something about that CS-20/30 bothers me.<BR>Let me know,<BR>Rick<P><BR>[This message has been edited by Rick Hoover (edited 03-30-2000).]<p>[This message has been edited by Rick Hoover (edited 03-30-2000).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronbarn Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 Hate to knock Hal's purchase, but I learned the hard way about spray guns. Bought top of the line Sears many years ago and bent to pressure (no pun intended) to buy a Sharpe for a project. Sears is now relugated to splash and dash jobs, not for finish work. Have a small DeVilbiss for detail work.<P>However, have now gone to HVLP. Matt Joseph had a series of articles in Skinned Knuckles about these units so I called him and ended up buying one. Great and I definitely noticed the reduced overspray and reduced waste of paint. A little more orangepeel, but that can be buffed out. If your moving up, I recommend HVLP. The compressor that comes with the unit helps heat up the paint and eliminate many of the filtering problems faced with the traditional compressor units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL) Posted March 31, 2000 Share Posted March 31, 2000 Ok guys, cheap as it is, it is a Campbell Hausfeld model DH7500 with a #3 nozzle (1.9mm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Hoover Posted March 31, 2000 Share Posted March 31, 2000 Sorry Hal, I really hated to say anything on your gun, I just hate also to see you spend more in solving a problem when it could be right there in front of our eyes. Hopefully, it's not the problem right now.<BR>I have no idea as to the system of guns and nozzles are with Campbell Hausfeld. I know Home Depot here carries them. Could check there for nozzles. I use a DeVilbiss #30 for primers and lacquer paints and #80 nozzles for enamel painting. I can look into this. Still, it won't hurt the wallet to talk to NAPA about a Sharpe.<P>Rick<P>This page 2 thing is a pain, do you want to start " Body Work II " ?<P> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Binger Posted March 31, 2000 Share Posted March 31, 2000 Rick,<P>I think I know what you are trying to say about spray guns.. In other words - - I shouldn't use my Wagnor airless anymore. Right?<P>Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Hoover Posted March 31, 2000 Share Posted March 31, 2000 It's Wagner Dan, "Wagner". ( Got it Peter!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL) Posted March 31, 2000 Share Posted March 31, 2000 Hey Ron,<P>I gotta agree with Rick about this Page 2 thing. Can we close this thread and start a Body Work 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronbarn Posted March 31, 2000 Share Posted March 31, 2000 BY POPULAR REQUEST (SEE ABOVE) WE ARE CONTINUING THIS DISCUSSION ON A NEW THREAD TITLED "BODY WORK 2" (CLEVER, HUH?).<P>PLEASE ENTER ANY NEW REPLIES ON THAT THREAD.<P>DON'T MISS ANY OF THE SAGA OF HAL AND HIS THREADY PAINT PROBLEMS.<BR> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 2, 2000 Share Posted April 2, 2000 I just found this post and you guys have wore me out! I am a Martin-Senour paint rep and I have got to set you straight on a few things. First the lacquer primer has got to go! I know you want your Model A to be "STOCK" but dump the lacquer and go to a "2K" primer like M-S (Martin-Senour) 5102 Tec/Prime Plus. It is far superior to lacquer and will not shrink, and is insoluble. This means that when you paint over it with what ever paint you want be it lacquer or enamel it will not "soak up" the solvents from the top coat. With a "2K" primer you don't need a sealer because the primer is insoluble! And God for bid don't use the Poly-Satin (or Poly-Satan as we like to call it)it is lacquer and very old technology. Always use "2K" products when ever possible including the topcoat (anything you add a "hardner or catalyst" to) this provides a chemical cure, a "molecule linkup" if you will. If you insist on using a lacquer primer at least make sure it is an "acrylic" lacquer like Primeez or for about half as much money the Econo-Body 15200 (gray) or 15201 (red). The Etching primer (8847 Trio-Prime) is a MUST and should always be used. It provides a barrier for water under the primer so in the future when a chip accures the moisture has a much harder time getting under the primer. The bondo (I'll call it that for this forum, it is a brand name I don't recommend) needs to be at least 12 hours cured before you put any etching primers over it. the CS-30, CS-5 and CS-40 are "exempt" solvents with no VOC (volatile Organic Compound) they are very heavy solvents being everywhere from almost striaght acetone (CS-5) to 80% oxall (I forget how to spell it) and 20% acetone. You can get an Econo-Body CS-30 for half as much with part #15245. And the CS-20 is not an "exempt" solvent as it does have some VOCs. Remember these solvents are very heavy and need some heat and air movement. And DON"T LOAD IT UP! it will take forever for the solvent to get out. As for as the Econo- Body being "Cheap"....don't count on it. Marketing is a funny beast, the 15240 is a little "weak" but most of the other Econo-Body products are literally the same product as in the "top of the line" cans. Ask for an MSDS sheet on these products (by law they have to provide it if asked) and you can study just what is it that can you bought. The Ecno-Body sand paper is pretty bad though, go with the M-S RED DIAMOND, it is second to none. I could get into the use of bondo and metal working but I think you would throw me out of here with log posts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2000 Share Posted April 4, 2000 Post new responses to the new thread at: <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/ubb/Forum7/HTML/000160.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/ubb/Forum7/HTML/000160.html</A> <P>Peter<P>------------------<BR>Peter Gariepy<BR>peterg@aaca.org<P>www.aaca.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now