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power brake unit


b6vt
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I am currently in the process of, with the help of my good friend, installing a rebuilt master cylinder in my 1948 LC coupe. The subject came up about installing a power brake unit. It would sure improve the braking capabilities of this car instead of driving a quarter mile ahead. I saw a unit that was remotely installed, no pancake--can anyone direct me to that unit?? Glenn Lorei

b6vt

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I used a Ford under the floor double diaphragm aftermarket setup. Seems to work fine. I adapted to the original pedal, but believe the complete Ford assembly with dual master cylinder and pedal would work and be easier to install. Speedway and others have available. I had to cut a hole in the X member for the master cylinder to fit. Only problem was the hole in the floor to fill the master cylinder fluid no longer matched the master cylinder fill caps, so I installed a remote fill reservoir in the engine compartment.

Abe

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I'm concerned about the diameter of the pancake. It would seem that it would not be good to have it larger than the height of the frame. On a second question--I have to adjust the brakes. What is the direction to turn the adjuster? Up or down with the spoon to tighten on the driver's side and the opposite of that direction on the passenger side??? Thanks in advance. b6vt glenn Lorei

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Looking at the back side or from the driveshaft side of the backing plate your spoon ( the end you are holding) should go from top to bottom the move the shoes out. It's the same on both sides of the car.

Edit: I believe I got the above wrong. To adjust the shoes out the spoon goes from bottom to top on driver's side and bottom to top on passenger side. The adjusting star face forward on the driver's side. Both adjusters are right hand threads. The passenger side star faces rearward. Sorry for the confusion...I can't believe how many times I've done this task and still have to think it through.

Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)
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On another note..."ECI" offers a non boosted two pot master cylinder which is suppose to boost pressure by 40% if I remember correctly. It ain't cheap but neither is a 'rear ender'. I am looking at this as an option on my '38 coupe which was converted to juice brakes in the 40's. Someone hung the m/c below the frame rail on two pieces of angle iron. Guess what is the lowest part of the car is.

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post-88682-143142730277_thumb.jpgAbe got me to thinking. Could a 8" booster fit in place of the unit shown in the pic. I've got about 4-12" to the floor pan from the C/L of the actuator arm. So it will fit but the problem as I see it is the 4" of the booster hanging below the C/L. That makes the brake system even lower than before. I going to look into turning the M/C 90 deg. And look at using a bell crank.
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Here is picture of dual diaphragm power unit that fits under floor. I used a 3/8 inch plate to adapt to frame, and coupler nuts to make original shaft end come out in right place to fit brake pedal. Master cylinder bolts on to rear. You can also purchase an assembly with brake pedal already attached.

Abe

post-43470-143142747005_thumb.jpg

post-43470-143142747005_thumb.jpg

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Here is picture of dual diaphragm power unit that fits under floor. I used a 3/8 inch plate to adapt to frame, and coupler nuts to make original shaft end come out in right place to fit brake pedal. Master cylinder bolts on to rear. You can also purchase an assembly with brake pedal already attached.

Abe

Could you give me the dimensions of the unit and source. Thanks. Glenn Lorei

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Glen:

My booster is 7 inch diameter, 5 inches from mounting to mounting surface. Got it from an outfit called "Hot Rods USA". I ordered a kit, but had to bug them to send the remote fill kit you need as master cylinder no longer matches the fill hole in floor. Many vendors have, here is speedway link. www.speedwaymotors.com/7-Inch-Dual-Brake-Booster,8446.html. Speedway also has kits with pedals.

Abe

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