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1935 Dodge Brothers pickup


softtomgirl
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Splash aprons"the name says it all....

The 1930 DC parts book calls then "dust shields". I suppose another observation about this time (1930) is that there was no air cleaner, just a silencer with a mesh screen to keep the birds out. By 1935 you would have an air cleaner so keeping dust out of the intake was less important. I am sticking to assistance with cooling being the main purpose. :)

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  • 3 months later...

Looks like Dave is giving you good advise

I just found thes link yesterday

Dave rode in the back of my 35 KC 2nd series at the DodgeBrothers 100 year centennial meet in Detroit

I will monitor link if you need parts or

Advice

Let me know

Charlie Minio advertised parts on EBay as HotRod Charlie

Regards

Jesse

Edited by 30dodge35 (see edit history)
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I see that Dave has provided you with the serial number run for 34s. The 3009270 on the door jamb plate is the car serial number, which should match the engine block number if the engine was never changed. The '3' series of serial numbers is an indication that the car was built in California (Los Angeles) rather than in Detroit. The other number on the firewall plate is the body number, with the 'CC' standing for convertible coupe. In contrast, a business coupe would have had a 'BC' suffix. The other tag on the firewall is the manufacturer's plate, which would have been red with lettering on it (although I have seen some early 34s with black plates) and stating Plymouth, Division of Chrysler, etc. These are almost always washed out (they were just painted, not stamped or engraved) and are the same for all 34 Plymouths. Very good reproductions are available, although they can be a little pricey. A photo of one is attached. One final number you may not have seen, if you look at the top of the firewall on the drivers side, next to the coil hole, there should be another number stamped into the metal. This is found on many coupes and convertibles. My 34 convertible has it, as does another firewall I have from a 34 convertible. My understanding is that these are basically convertible body numbers, and they run consecutively from 33 through 34, which makes the number run only about 8000 total. Let me know if you have any further questions.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]280871[/ATTACH]

Don't know about the 34, on the 33 DP that we had, the engine #s are the same as the frame #s. DP 52882 stamped on the engine and frame. The vin, 3580558 is stamped on the door jam tag. The vin tag on the door is totally different that the frame-engine number. This was a one owner car with the original engine.Where is the frame #s for the 34 DR?

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Regarding the frame # there is no ref. of it on a Plymouth Build Card, my thinking is that on the track once the engine was installed, that # would be stamped on the frame in 3 places, close to the 2 front running board bracket and over the rear wheel arch, all on the outside of the left hand rail. The engines were picked at random from a batch but the body was fitted the serial # were fitted in-sequence, this is why Chrysler Historical can only issue build cards from serial #. Unfortunately although they have the information they do not have a cross reference in data base form to issue build cards from engine #.

The last set of splash panels was in 2004, 3500.00 back then.

I know you said they were expensive but that's big bucks, I shall make both sets for mine, I have another toe board to make LHD but it's not much different to the RHD I made back a while.

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Thank you for taking your time on this. We sold our 34 Dodge Hearse. Was trying to find the frame numbers. The vin numbers Indicates that it is a 1934 DS model with a 145" wheel base. Engine numbers starts with a DR.

Does the frame numbers match your vin? If so, looks like it changed from 33 Dodge DP with the engine and frame numbers being the same and the vin being different.

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Edited by countrytravler (see edit history)
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Ian that's somewhere I've not spent a lot of time on, ply33 said a while back that he had heard on later models than his had the serial on the frame but had never seen evidence of it, I will spend some time in that area tomorrow, lets hope Plymouth used the same method as Dodge.

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Edited by TomP (see edit history)
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Mine actually has 4 different numbers.

1st is the Serial Number ( I guess VIN ) located on the chassis and on the ID plate on the front door pillar : 3736886

2nd is the Engine Number : Mine is DR61303

3rd is the manufacturing number ( body number ) which is DR40500s

4th is the Budd Body number stamped in the firewall just to the left of the coil hole in the firewall : RH38240 ( mine is a right hand drive so that stands to reason I guess !

Also written inside the car on the back left panel was EMPIRE MAROON, RHD, DR

So there's my car broken down into the numbers. Made in Detroit......oh yeah !

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I finally located my '35 KC frame s/n. While searching I came across what appears to be a 4-digit number (3/4" characters) located on the driver side frame above the running board front bracket connection point... the numbers are poorly stamped but looks like 8380 (or close to it) any ideas what this might be? It doesn't match any sequence in engine or frame number.

Dennis

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I found my frame number in the place you indicated (8066502)... it could be a re-stamp and I just can't see the poorly stamped numbers... but for sure the first two numbers are 83 of the 4 digit number in prior post. I'll the another look later this weekend if the garage warms up some..

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I have the address for Chrysler Historical... will get that out this weekend. I contacted the Orange County Fire Dept Historical museum for any information they may have on this truck as it belonged to the city of Santa Ana ( the reply I got verified such and that it was auctioned off in 1950). Unfortunately they have no photos of the truck during its service. The truck has been painted a couple times but there are remnants of fire engine red paint about the body.

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Unfortunately they have no photos of the truck during its service.

What about photos of the fire crew(s)? They might be taken with the crew in front of the truck. e.g. returning servicemen coming back to the crew. Basically any photos they have of the period may include the vehicle(s) in the background. Likely to be in B&W of course. Try the local library historical collection? Longstanding photographers and similar companies?

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I'll have to see what I can find online as I am no longer in SoCal. The Orange Co Register would have archives from back then I would assume, but might not be on the web. I'm waiting to hear from the OCEAN Historical museum curator for as ny info he may have. They are asking me for info as well.

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Don't give up I also have a 33 PDX Detroit build for a Johannesburg order, the previous owner had misplaced the serial plt, Jim B. at POC had it on record, I was able to get a build card and after that I sent a letter to Classic and Performance Cars Africa. They posted it under letters to the editor and a reader had recovered it in 1970, the photo is his Pontiac leaving Bloemfontein bound for Durban 500 miles east.

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Hi Guys,

I've attached a few pics of where ther serial number is stamped on my car. Once I found the indentations of a few numbers ( it was lightly stamped ) fine wet and dry paper very lightly rubbed revealed the rest of the numbers.

Cheers

Ian

​On my PE unfortunately no numbers in that position, the cab and bed should come off in the next week or so let's see if that turns up anything.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I got my Build Sheet today from Chrysler Historical.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]299841[/ATTACH]

Dont know what some of it means.. especially in the EXTRA EQUIPMENT section.

Dennis

LATE 1935 kC-111.1/4" wheel base-Regular hung doors-crank out windshield-hard top.

4-steel wheels-16x6 Goodyear

Tire lock-only calls for 4 wheels

Front and rear shocks

4.11 rears

Chrome front bumper

Very late truck made in Sept in Det.

Chrome front bumper

Sheep skin for the rear cover- this is a merchant truck?

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Here's my take on it: Serial Number 8,066,502 Made at Dodge Main in Hamtramck Mich. (Factory torn down some years ago.)

1/2 ton "Express" (pickup)

T-12 (Larger engine size. T-5's were smaller displacement.)

20782-Engine serial number. If you still have the original engine this number will be on an embossed pad on upper front left side of block.

"Tire lock" for spare tire.

"Sheep R. cap" means "sheep rad cap" i.e. normal Rocky Mountain leaping ram sheep cap.

"DUP" I believe means Duplate safety glass all around.

"CLNR" I have never seen this before. Anybody?

"4.1" The rear differential ratio is 4:11 which was common for these trucks.

"EX" The pencil scribblings at the bottom are the date it actually left the factory and the code for the dealer it went to. (Can't make mine out either.)

"Blue" This usually means "Dodge truck blue #1" introduced 1933 continues to 1946. Today's Ditzler code 10000.

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Dave: 1935 KCL was only availabe in a "chassis only" (mine) or a panel. No pickup. So it has to be a 111" KC. Yes I agree the "CLNR" is the optional air cleaner. But which one? There were 3 types: an oil bath heavy duty -$2.50,a VORTOX with standard breather -$17.50 (!) and a VORTOX with VORTOX breather cap $19.50 (!!!).Those last 2 were a LOT of money in 1935. Chrome front bumper was $6. Duplate glass could be had just for the windshield but I think we'll find this vehicle has it all around- $14. The "ornamental rad cap" was $2 and this is the common Rocky Mountain sheep one. If it wasn't ordered a smooth chrome plated "standard cap" was installed no charge. I'm yet to see a build sheet without the $2 leaping ram sheep included. Mine had it and I only got a "flat faced cowl and chassis". It must of been the thing to have on your Dodge. The 3 years HC/KC/KC were the 1st Dodges to have the Ram cap which is what Dodge now calls all their trucks with the Ram's head all over the vehicle. We have the 1st vehicles to have this corporate logo. Perhaps Dennis could enlighten us as to what his truck came with now that he has all the info? If the glass does not have any printing on it saying "DUPLATE", then looking down on the edge of the side windows should show the "sandwhich" of 2 pieces of glass with plastic film between.

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I checked my glass; front and rear is safety glass. Door glass was broken long ago. I do have the original Ram radiator cap. The original engine was removed when I was a toddler... its long gone. Im using a 230cid engine. I cannot find any remnant of blue paint but plenty of red paint hidden in between parts. Truck has been black since early 60's. I don't have the original 16" rims... I need to find some soon.

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