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Metz Model 22 Muffler


Luv2Wrench
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Since I know there are a couple of owners that don't have mufflers or only have parts, I thought I would take apart my muffler and post some images and dimensions. As I mentioned before, I will be sending the end caps off to Cattail Foundry to get some additional parts made. If you are someone you know needs a set of end caps, please have them get in touch with me in the next couple of weeks. I don't know what the cost will be and there is really no way to know until Mr King calls and says what it will be. My guess is about $100 for the set.

First shot is the muffler after taking the skin off. I took the two rods out but couldn't get the end caps to come apart. I took the skin off to see how it was put together. It was just rusted together and while the center pipe is tapered at each end, there is nothing holding the center pipe into the end caps other than pressure. If it wasn't rusted, mine should have come apart without issue.

Second shot is the muffler skin length which is about 21.5" Note the cutout for the end caps.

Third shot highlights the cutout in the skin on each end for the end caps. You can see in this one it looks like my end cap was modified at some point. Maybe it broke and something was brazed on to it.

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Next are the two rods that hold the muffler together. Each rod is hollow and is 11/16" O.D. and 1/2" I.D. You can see the length of each is 22.75"

The threads on the two rods, however, are different. The lower rod is threaded 5/8"-18. The upper rod (where the brackets are) is just slightly bigger (but obviously not all the way to 11/16") and even finer pitch. I have no idea why the two rods are threaded differently. The outside of each nut is the same at 7/8".

The hollow rods also have grooves cut in three places to let the exhaust gases inside the muffler enter into the rods and then escape the muffler. The grooves are 3" long and 1/4" wide. It appears they were cut with a grinder. The placement is pretty simple. One groove is centered on the rod. The other two grooves are about 1" from where the threads start on each end. Note that the two grooves on the ends are 180 degrees from the groove in the center.

The center pipe is 1.5" dia and tapers down to enter into the end caps. The pipe is full of holes to let the exhaust gases from the exhaust pipe out into the muffler.

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And finally, the end caps and brackets. The bracket appear to just be simple flat stock that was bent and drilled (ie; it isn't cast). One detail I find interesting is that the bracket mounts to the frame rail at the same point as the bracket that holds the clutch/brake rod. In addition, and rather strangely, the cut-out (or bypass) is directly into the wooden cross members that support the fenders and side steps. I can only imagine that the muffler was from a previous design or maybe the bypass was rarely used.

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What gauge steel is the skin?

I don't have a gauge to measure with but it seems to be the same thickness as a piece of 18 ga scrap I have. It seems a little thicker but it definitely isn't as thick as a 16 ga piece I have.

It also appears to be galvanized. I don't know if the skin is original or not, however, there is a very interesting stamping as pictured below. I guess it could have been a piece of scrap from some other application but the word 'Front' is indeed facing the front. I tried matching the numbers to the parts list but no match there. I'm not surprised the numbers didn't match as I've found multiple cast pieces that have numbers in the casting and they don't match the parts list either. Perhaps someone with a muffler that is known to be original could look and see if they have a similar stamping.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 2 years later...

I have a question about the muffler which has puzzled for some time, in the pics supplied by Luv2Wrench the 2 small tubes which hold the muffler together with the slots cut in them, what is the purpose of these slots, with these slots exhaust gases can escape thru the 4 ends all the time, also the flap on the end of the muffler, what is the purpose of this flap and what type cable fitted to it and where did the control fit in the car, thanks for help

 

Regards Dave

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  • 2 weeks later...

The slots are there for the gases to escape.  The 'noise' bounces around in the cylinder and is attenuated (to a degree).  The flap on the end is normally closed and thus the gases (and noise) is forced to stay in the cylinder, bouncing around until it manages to find its way into the slots and then out the four ends.  When the flap is opened, the exhaust gases pass straight through the pipe and out.  This server to increase power to some degree as well as provide a loud noise... commonly referred to as the "exhaust cut-out".  It is operated by a small level toward the center of the floorboard below and to the right of the friction wheel pedal.

 

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I hope you see this love2wrench, not real savvy on how to work the forum. I'd like to see the complete exhaust but I need a muffler, radiator cap or specs so I could get one built, someone to rebuild the radiator, and possibly someone to instruct me on wooden spoke tightening.  To get me going.  ?

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Thanks for info regarding muffler, my thoughts on muffler was why does the exhaust gasses escape through 4 small holes, I thought the as called exhaust cutt out would have been the main outlet, then the flap was closed and perhaps the 4 small holes acted as some rype exhaust whistle, only my thoughts, half way through building muffler

Regards Dave

Edited by Sampson 35 (see edit history)
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On 11/18/2017 at 2:23 PM, metzman said:

I would like to buy a set of end caps but don't have a clue how to go about it. Not so good with these things.

Metzman, please check your InBox on this forum site.   Up in the right hand corner of this page there should be an icon of an envelope and it will have a red number/check on it.  Click on that and you'll see a private message from me in which I tell you that I have end caps that I will sell you.  My email is in that message.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Greetings Metz Masters,

 

           

On 9/2/2014 at 1:19 PM, Luv2Wrench said:

In addition, and rather strangely, the cut-out (or bypass) is directly into the wooden cross members that support the fenders and side steps. I can only imagine that the muffler was from a previous design or maybe the bypass was rarely used.

 

           My understanding is that the cut out was only used when the motorist needed additional power, as when hill climbing,  and thus hot exhaust gases would not often be blown onto the wooden running board support.

 

           My '14 Model 22 has a piece of sheet metal attached to that cross member to protect it from the hot gases when the flap is open.  I do not know if it was installed by the fellow who restored my car back in the late '60s / early '70s or some previous owner. I doubt that it came from the factory. I have seen a picture of another Model 22 with a piece of tin wrapped around the wooden support as a protection.

 

               It is interesting, and as yet unexplained, that while all of the Model 22 mufflers have the cutout flap my car never had the pedal used to actuate the flap. There is no slot in the floorboard for the pedal. They are the original floorboards and not replaced. 

 

             Good luck with your projects, Bill

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  • 2 months later...

             Hi Jeff

          I was looking at my statement today and saw that my check hadn't moved. Did you get payment? If not please let me know so I can write another one.

                                                                       Thanks

                                                                            Rick

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