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1937 Zephyr gas tank removal ???


oldstyle
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Couple of weeks ago my car would not start. Checked and no gas at carb. Replaced fuel pump and still no luck. Blew out fuel line and car started right up. I think I have something in my tank. Looked under the car and no tank straps. Tank bolts to the frame and the bolts look pretty rough. Drain plug will not budge. PO rounded it pretty good.

Even if I do get the bolts out then what? Tank sits on frame edge so it will not just drop down. Maybe slides? I don't see much room in either direction and trunk floor (looks new) sits in top.

For now, I'm going to try to peek through the tank sending unit opening.

Thanks,

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Your on the right track. Disconnect wire going to sender in tank(trap door in floor of trunk). Disconnect fill pipe at fender, sleeve nut will give you trouble, you'll need a "spanner"

type wrench. If like my '38 and '48 ,3 bolts , 2 are "caged" . These will be a "Bear" to get loose. Not much room to move tank. Oh! YES! break loose gas line at tank. Soak

with penetrating oil. Once tank is down,dump gas , CAREFULLY ! remove drain plug from tank , you may have to drill out. Be careful, take your time, this is a 1/4" pipe thread

and the fitting (female) is soldered to tank. You don't want to crack this. Lets us know how you do. Thats all there is to it---- piece o cake!

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I used the POR-15 kit on mine. The gas was foul and there was lots of rust, though it wasn't rusted through. It did a great job of removing most of the rust and sealing the inside. Just make sure you don't leave the sender in while you're cleaning and sealing.

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After working with the stuff I'm convinced it will never flake. It bonds amazingly well and is super tough but stays plastic. It goes on thick and nicely covered what rust didn't dissolve with the acid flush. Even if you don't use the seal, the other stuff they provide does a great job of removing rust. And no, I don't own their stock.

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Fuel tank sits on frame rail, and has cage nuts to hold in place...remove bolts and slide over to one side..drop down..

I dont know about filler neck style.. I have worked on 38-48 but never 37.. Jim Zeffer has a 35 Blue Oval car that has a lead washer

a threaded nut to remove to remove filler...fun stuff..

remember to cut or remove fuel line, and neck first..chk for interference from muffler.

Slosh tank with muriatic acid..physically remove the chunks and clean again..JZ used some white epoxy stuff on the 38, it did good except

for plugging the fuel feed...which I only figured out when trying to start..and had no fuel flow...

add a clear filter under car just after tank...(cut line, use clamps and hose)

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  • 2 months later...

UPDATE

Removed the spring loaded bolt on the passenger side and the two bolt on the driver side. They were lock wired and one had to be drilled out because it was just spinning. I don't really see a nut on the filler tube connection at the tank. Maybe the whole tube spins?

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This advice might come too late, but if you still have rusted bolts, I would recommend using KROIL to free them up.

I recently used nearly a half gallon of KROIL to dis-assemble a completely rigid Columbia axle.

KROIL isn't available locally but can be ordered on line. Check out "KROIL" on the net.

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A big +1 for Kroil oil. I have cans of it everywhere I work on stuff. Once you order it every couple of months they will offer you a two-for-one deal on the aerosol cans. I get two and give one to my car buddies. Kind of pays back those borrowered skinned knuckles of theirs. Also, if you are also a gun nut, as I am, a 50/50 mix with your favorite barrel cleaner is the trick setup for cleaning barrels as it lifts copper and lead fouling from the barrel. All the 5 shots/1 hole shooter I know use it.

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