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DaveC6970

63' Water Pump Replacement +alpha

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This chain seems loose to me. I checked the deflection/slack and with the chain tight on one side, the loose side had over 1/2 inch of movement or slack. I could not find any spec in the service manual but it seems like a lot doesn't it?

-Dave

In the picture I see an upper gear that is aluminum with yellow plastic teeth and the chain is very loose. You need to change out the upper and lower gears and the chain. When you install them be very careful that the timing marks are lined up correctly. A double roller chain is best but as

I stated I never found any offered for a nailhead engine. If someone on the forum knows where the double roller setup can be sourced, go with that.

Once the chain gets loose it can rip off the plastic teeth from the chain whipping around. It looks to me like you are doing this just in time.

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Well, Russ Martin used to have them on his website but now he only advertises the double roller set for the smaller nailhead - 264/322, and it's out of stock. Has anyone checked with Tom Telesco or Carmen Faso to see if either of them might have one? TA Performance has a single roller chain that they are proud of. They want more for it than for a double roller for the 400/430/455. Their ad says it's "better."

Ed

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Well, I think I have finally collected all the parts to finally finish this job. Work and life seem to have gotten in the way if you know what I mean.

After talking to Russ Martin I decided, that even though my timing chain set had been replaced at some point with a non-plastic tooth version, there was too much slack in mine and it would be prudent to replace it. I went with the roller chain version he sells, not cheap but a nice part.

So before I remove my old chain I would like to line up the 2 "dots" on the crank and cam gear, per the service manual. This may be a dumb question, but is there an easier way to do this other than bump the starter, which is what I was planning to do?

Thanks, Dave

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You can put the crank snout bolt back in the end of the crank and use a breaker bar to turn it over. Taking out the spark plugs will take any compression out of the cylinders.

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You can put the crank snout bolt back in the end of the crank and use a breaker bar to turn it over. Taking out the spark plugs will take any compression out of the cylinders.

I was thinking of using the crank bolt but forgot about pulling the spark plugs. Thanks Ed!

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I was thinking of assembling the water pump to the timing cover on the workbench, before bolting the timing cover back to the engine. Things are always easier on the workbench. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to do this?

Thanks, Dave

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Thought I would post an update, spent most of the last week prepping gasket surfaces. This took much longer than I expected, but finally everything is nice and clean.

Installed my new roller timing chain I got from Russ Martin today. It didn't go on as easy as the old loose chain came off, this dude is tight, but a real nice piece. I looked in the manual and searched online but can't find the torque setting for the cam gear anywhere. Any ideas on what this value is or where I might find it?

Also, I was thinking of using thread lock on this bolt and the crank damper bolt, good or bad idea?

Thanks, Dave

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Posted (edited)

This is the water block behind the water pump.What do you suggest  to fix the pitting? Jb weld? haha. Does a new part replacement for this exist and if it does what is it called?

Thanks,

Josh and Garett Robertson

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Edited by Garett (see edit history)

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The new part is just called a front cover or a timing chain cover. As long as you have the timing chain covervoff, check the timing gear on the camshaft.  Originally it had nylon covering the teeth to help keep things quiet. As time goes by, the nylon will break off making the engine hard to time correctly. There are reproductions ofvthe timing cover available.  New cam gears are solid with no nylon. Your new pump has a five blade impeller. It came as original on air conditioned cars.  It will move more water, helping cool the engine.

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DEFINITELY needs a NEW timing case cover WITHOUT A DOUBT!!!!

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Being aluminum it is already potentially porous material. The corrosion can get you closer to leak between the cooling system and the crankcase, especially under pressure. Since new covers are available it is good insurance to replace it.

 

It is also another good reason to periodically pressure test the cooling system. I like to do the test with the engine cold and warm. Odd porosity over years, corroded core plugs, and weak hoses can go unnoticed without testing.

 

I also hung a spare cover on the wall about 25 years ago. You can't beat having Murphy's Law on your side.

Bernie

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Any best source for a new cover, or are they all from the same original maker these days?

 

 

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Thank you everyone for the input. Just gotta fork over the $325 for the new timing cover. Was hoping to avoid it. But "best laid plans". Just will delay things a bit.

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Believe me it's a quality piece. I was in on the design & fab.

 

Tom T.

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The spare I have hanging on the wall has flour or five 1/4-20 Helicoils in it from repairing the broken bolts. If I had to farm that job out it would have eaten most or all of the $350.

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