Tony M Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I have a 1955 Buick Super that just turned 70,000 miles , that tends to run hot. Doesn't over heat just runs hotter than I think it should. Changed the t-stat, flushed, had the radiator worked on. No change. Any ideas ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 TonyGet an infrared thermometer and check the actual temperature at the thermostat housing. The stock temperature gauge is pegged out HOT at only 200*F and with some antifreeze and a pressure cap it can go to 230* or higher before boiling over. If the radiator was not rodded out when 'worked on'...it still needs to be worked on. Also check the timing a be sure the vacuum advance is working. Report back.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 Thanks for the quick response. Saw in the new" Mr.Earls whats happening" section in the Buick Bugle that "Old Tank" helped out 56road with his resistor problem. I will check things out and get back soon. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I agree with Willie. First check that the radiator was properly worked on. Tanks taken off and core rodded out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Here is an old trick that I was told by an old time mechanic and was not sure if it would work, but it did. Drain the coolant and fill it up with plain old bleach from the $1 store. Run it to temp and let it cool maybe 5-6 times. Drain the bleach and flush the system out well. Fill it up with coolant. Did this to my 15 truck and it went from running hot to cool. Could not believe the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Do you mean bleach or washing powder ? Washing powder is mild caustic soda based ( Sodium Hydroxide ) which is what you find in the generic radiator cleaner / flush you buy from the auto parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Don't do it. The chlorides in bleach will cause a rusty mess.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 OK. Not going to go the bleach route , but I guess I can try the system flush from the parts store. I also had the distributor rebuilt with the generator last year, so I would assume that the vacuum advance is working correctly. The day job gets in the way of the fun stuff. So I usually have to wait until the weekends to work on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 A system flush will not handle the radiator if it is clogged too much. Radiator shops will usually clean your radiator for fifty bucks. The downside is that they might find that your radiator is shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxBuicks Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 i agree with aaron65. Don't cut corners with radiators. Once they start going bad they just keep going in that direction. And they seem to always fail in the middle of a nice afternoon drive when you least expect it. Take it to a radiator expert and be confident it is fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 Looks like I will be removing the radiator again and making sure that it is in as best condition as possible. Should be able to find a good radiator shop in the Chicago area. Somebody also mentioned trying to find a 5 blade fan. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr. Buick Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 I don't know how standardized fans were in terms of the indexing hole and bolt pattern. There are a few rare 5 and 6 blade fans that were used for Buick AC jobs and extreme heat. You might do better seeing if a similar era Caddy had more blades and would fit.Once you get the radiator rodded or rebuilt, I don't think you will need to mess with the fan. Think hard about using a filter to keep rust from the block passages out of the radiator again, such as Tefba. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 Well, I finally flushed the system with the prestone flush. I did the 3 day process. One of the engine block drain plugs was totally clogged. Wouldn't drain even when I totally removed the plug. Stuck a small screwdriver in and cleared the opening.The car is running MUCH BETTER. Still gets hot when Im waiting at a stop light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) Check your radiator pressure cap.A non A/C cars came equipped with a 7 psi cap.An A/c equipped car came with a 13 psi cap.On my car I changed my 7psi cap for a 13psi cap.Got the timing and vacuum advanced right. I rarely loose coolant now.I need to get a Temp gauge that shows actual temp (numbers, not "C" "N" "H").My 1990 Ford Diesel temp gauge makes wild swings toward "H" and then back toward "C"But when I look down at my aftermarket gauge showing actual temp in numbers of degrees F, It's at a steady 195 Edited August 5, 2014 by bhambulldog (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest INTRUDER Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 the radiator on my 55 Buick Special is about done. This is not a restoration ca car . More of a mild custom. Where can I find a new radiator ? it does not have to be stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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