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Thanks for the help. I've been on anything scout before and they unfortunately don't have what I'm looking for. On the other hand, do you know if a 1979 body would fit the 1977 frame?

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scouts have always been known for rust problems and this one being from the north would need checked very carefully. I would strongly suggest putting it on a rack where the frame can be checked. If the frame is good, then it is a matter of the cost to rebuild. most parts can be found if there is a good foundation to start with.

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  • 3 weeks later...
post-101710-14314264118_thumb.jpgSince my brother was getting harassed by the code enforcement officer in plymouth, I moved my truck to my garage in kingston. It's a little cramped in there but it's still manageable. At least now there's a roof over my head and with the body taken off, there's more room to work on her.
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Not as well as I had hoped. It seams as though the 1977 304 is a rather unpopular model to come across. On the other hand, I've started sanding and painting the body panels that I do have.

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Thanks for the help. I'm hoping to get it soon so i could hear her start. Me and a friend had tested with a battery and saw that the electrical side of the engine is working just fine so it shouldn't have any problems when we get gas in it. By the way, I did some more painting more of the body. I'm not home but I'll have the pictures up tomorrow or Saturday along with the new work shelf that my brother and I are building for the garage.

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After one final clear coat and my brother's touch of humor to add style to it, the front section is done and painted. Now I need to find a back section of body to put on it and it'll at least look pretty.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm working on the wiring to start the engine and keep it running. Looking at the diagram, it calls for something called an ignition pulse amplifier. Could anybody help me understand what I'm looking at and/or if I need one? Thanks!

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  • 4 weeks later...

So far this is the only place i could find a complete metal body tub for sale. http://www.scoutmadness.com/tubsforsale.html. Does anybody know of a place I could find a full metal long top? My brother found four back side windows so instead of a bikini top like I had originally planned, I'm going to do the original removable top.

Edited by Blayze
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  • 6 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Sorry about the long break. It finally got warmer out so i pulled her out of the garage and started to build her back up so i can get some wiring done and hopefully get it started. with constant researching and the help of some patient auto store workers, I found that the "Ignition Pulse Amplifier" is actually the holly gold box that I kept hearing about. So on that note, I now need to figure out how to wire it up and then the ignition will be done! I also may have an extra fiberglass hood, grill, and lights to sell. I'll need to see if I can get my hands on them soon though. Here's some pics of what my girlfriend and I have workin' on. I apologize for the washed-out look of them. My phone's camera lens is a little dirty and i haven't gotten around to cleaning it.
 

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  • 1 month later...

I almost got it to start though I cant figure out what the problem is. When the wires are connected to the solenoid to crank the motor, it moves fairly slow and then the bat starts to smoke a little. I think the solenoid is bad because there is a reading on the multimeter when the probes are attached to the body (as a ground) and any of the terminals except the battery terminal. So with that, would it be safe to assume that the solenoid is causing a short and therefor not letting enough power get to the starter and/or spark plugs? This was the only thing I could assume was stopping it, however, the clerk at Cee Kay's, my local auto store, told me that it wasn't safe to assume that the solenoid grounding out was the right was to deduce needing a new solenoid. he thought that the starter was going bad and, giving me the run-around for 20 minutes, I walked out with neither. So I ask, would it be the solenoid or are there more problems than that?

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I almost got it to start though I cant figure out what the problem is. When the wires are connected to the solenoid to crank the motor, it moves fairly slow and then the bat starts to smoke a little. I think the solenoid is bad because there is a reading on the multimeter when the probes are attached to the body (as a ground) and any of the terminals except the battery terminal. So with that, would it be safe to assume that the solenoid is causing a short and therefor not letting enough power get to the starter and/or spark plugs? This was the only thing I could assume was stopping it, however, the clerk at Cee Kay's, my local auto store, told me that it wasn't safe to assume that the solenoid grounding out was the right was to deduce needing a new solenoid. he thought that the starter was going bad and, giving me the run-around for 20 minutes, I walked out with neither. So I ask, would it be the solenoid or are there more problems than that?

To relieve possible confusion, the solenoid is one without a relay (It is attached directly to the starter) so to bench test it, i would need to pull apart the passenger side of the engine compartment just to get to the bolts holding the two to the motor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you have an interest, I have a set of top bows and the front extruded aluminum channel that goes on top of the windshield frame to make it a 'bikini top' Scout.

Ask $80.

773.four.nine.zero.9747

Thanks for the offer but I'll have to decline. I was going to make a bikini top pickup with the body that I have until just last Friday when my brother informed me of what he found. About two hours away and for $400 there was a '73 body tub with the long top and lots of extras.

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As for the hunt for body parts went on, one stop both filled and completed most of my shopping for a mere $400. '73 Body tub, inner and outer front fenders, hood counterbalance, grill plate, heater core, busted dash, good dash (Though not from that truck), pedals, one seat, the long top, both doors, broken tailgate, and a field mouse (We named him Harvey). And here it is.

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I drew this up in MS paint so I can ask. Is this the proper Ignition wiring for the scout? It's the electronic ignition instead of points so it uses a gold box and a "sensor and trigger wheel" inside of the distributor.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, sunday is the big move. I'm moving the frame up to my grandfather's garage and soon after putting the body on top of it to begin reassembling it. I'll try to get some pictures to show how it all looks when it's together

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I've moved the frame and what body i have out to my grandfather's garage with the help of my girlfriend's cousin and his truck. now i'll be patching the frame, doing the fuel and brake systems, and putting a fresh coat of bed-liner on the frame to keep her rust free. after that is putting the body on and then it's just the homeward stretch of wiring to get her back on, and off, the road. As soon as i get stuff done I'll be posting pictures again.

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If the distributor has a white plastic vacuum advance chamber built into it, you has a prestolite ignition system. I don't what a Holley gold box is,but the factory presto lite ignition modules were also gold. If it is indeed a pestolite, google that and you will find discussions of the weak points. Joe

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If the distributor has a white plastic vacuum advance chamber built into it, you has a prestolite ignition system. I don't what a Holley gold box is,but the factory presto lite ignition modules were also gold. If it is indeed a pestolite, google that and you will find discussions of the weak points. Joe

I have an electronic ignition with a vacuum advance on the distributor. the gold box is there as a way to retard the ignition while at slow engine speed while the vacuum advance speeds it up while at higher engine speed. inside the distributor is a sensor and trigger wheel rather than a points system. they switched from points to electronic in the 74 and later models i believe.

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I have an electronic ignition with a vacuum advance on the distributor. the gold box is there as a way to retard the ignition while at slow engine speed while the vacuum advance speeds it up while at higher engine speed. inside the distributor is a sensor and trigger wheel rather than a points system. they switched from points to electronic in the 74 and later models i believe.

I called it a Holly gold box because its a Holly Carb and Distributor system.

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  • 1 year later...

I know I haven't been updating this as much as i planned, however, I'll run through the updates.

I coated the frame with bed-liner and plan on using rustoleum and an air gun to get the inside of the frame

the body is sitting on the frame but not bolted down

New brake calipers (rotors were a little rusted but surprisingly still straight and good)

working on the rear brakes (drums are easy to pull apart but a pain to put back together)

picked up brake line and grabbing the fittings soon

brake hoses are hooked up

body is primed.

 

Next on the to-do list:

cut a section of an extra front fender to patch the damaged part of the rear quarter (I found that the wheel arc is identical for front and back)

pop the dent out of the rear quarter

paint the body

run brake and fuel lines

hang gas tank

bolt down the body

 

My new year's resolution is to put in at least three hours of work on her each week until it's finished.

 

PS: the reason I haven't been paying too much attention to the scout recently is because I just sold my 99 sebring to buy a 1984 Impala from my brother. It has a few mild issues but it's nice to watch heads turn from how rare that year is in my area. most were scrapped so there's plenty of new and antiques but only a handful of the 80's models.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Does anybody know if current flows both ways through a sensor and trigger wheel distributor? I'm working on drawing up a wiring diagram for the scout so I can have an idea of what I'm doing. Rather than the points system, it has a sensor and trigger wheel (supposedly lasts much longer and is more reliable) but the wires were clipped at one point so i only have two black wires exposed and no female/male connectors to easily hook it up. I don't want to fry the ignition box by trying to play with wires while it's not running so I was hoping someone could tell me if it matters which wires (Blue and Yellow) go what way (Or if it can go either). Ideas?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I just picked up the front seat from my brothers house to, with help from my girlfriend's father, reupholster it. I decided to go with a blue and white interior so the fabric of choice is blue denim for the cushion faces and the back, and white leather/vinyl fabric for the trim around the front and sides. I'm hoping it turns out good but either way, I'll be able to say it's mine when I'm done. I'll take pictures of the process and the finished product. Wish me luck!

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