WhipperSnapper

Saving Grace

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Here's what I did:

 

1. Use garden hose and compressed air to ensure lines clear.

 

2. Use funnel and heavy rubber gloves. Pour sulfuric acid through the lines. Let sit 20 min. 

 

3. Flush lines with hose, dry with compressed air.

 

4. Use brake parts cleaner to free stuck screw ends.

 

5. Use vice to hold lines. Clean with grinder wire wheel. Be sure to wear a leather apron and use eye protection!

 

6. Use black marker to mark problem areas (excessive pitting, holes, etc.) For later review / repair.

 

Use the nastiest drain cleaner you can find. Sulfuric acid will be a prime ingredient. 

 

Harbor Freight is the place to buy your grinder, apron, gloves, and wire wheels. Cheap, cheap! B)

Edited by WhipperSnapper (see edit history)
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14 minutes ago, old-tank said:

No, no, no....vinegar and salt will actually promote corrosion of even stainless steel!  A phosphoric acid preparation like OSPHO would be more appropriate.

OSPHO would work too. I realize the corrosive action of salt and vinegar, I use it to rustify roofing tin all the time.  I'm not saying leave it in the tubes for days. Overnight would take care of the rust but would not have time to corrode the metal. Then like I said, neutralize it with sofa water. 

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26 minutes ago, WhipperSnapper said:

I've been thinking of different methods but all have their downsides. I'm leaning towards pumping a rust converter / inhibitor through the lines. Corroseal is what I used on the frame and it's thin enough to work. 

 

My feeling though is that it's really not necessary. The fuel lines are pretty thick and there is very little pitting. I don't think that the rust ran deep - just surface. The fuel system is not high pressure, and with a fuel filter before the carb, I don't see much of a problem. 

 

The brake lines are a different story...

 

Youre probably right, probably not necessary if they're not that corroded inside. 

re the brake lines being another story I agree too. May want to go new there... 

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I'll continue to play around with them and see what can be done. I hate replacing parts that can be saved. :P

 

In other news, I've sent the shocks off to be rebuilt and it isn't going to be cheap. I went with Kanter in NJ and am looking at ~$1,200! The Dynaflow is also being rebuilt as I type this - cheaper than the shocks. I drop the engine off at the machine shop Saturday to be rebuilt. I decided not to tackle it myself due to space and the difficulty of moving the dern thing around.

 

I've placed an order with Wilwood for the front disc brake conversion kit and have everything else needed to complete the frame, suspension, brakes, and fuel system. I'm just waiting on the shocks to come back before putting it all together. After the frame is back together, the engine and transmission will be painted and mounted to the frame. I'll start on the cab (which is currently sitting outside) after the drivetrain is complete.:D

 

 

 

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My rebuilt gauges arrived in the mail today!!! :D:D:D

 

The work was done by Seattle Speedometer. I highly recommend contacting them if you're looking to have yours done. 

 

 

speedo1.jpg

speedo2.jpg

clock.jpg

fuel.jpg

temp.jpg

backs.jpg

invoice.jpg

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These gages and clock are so gorgeous that you could go Flav-a-flav style, put it on a chain and where it around your neck all by itselfB)!!!

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2 minutes ago, WhipperSnapper said:

Haha! This is probably the first time that Flavor Flav has been mentioned on any classic Buick forum. :P

Lol, first time for everything, right.  For real though, you'll have to post some pictures of these items installed on your car.  I will reference this thread when it's time for me to get mine restored.

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Will do! I'm still a ways off from rebuilding the dash but it'll come. 

 

I have the "before" photos around here somewhere. I'll post them when I figure out what I've done with them. ^_^

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10 hours ago, WhipperSnapper said:

Haha! This is probably the first time that Flavor Flav has been mentioned on any classic Buick forum. :P

 

"Yeahhhhh Boyeeee" :lol:

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8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

"Yeahhhhh Boyeeee" :lol:

See, this is how you know Mr. Lamar is cool!  ^_^

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On 10/6/2016 at 10:20 AM, WhipperSnapper said:

My rebuilt gauges arrived in the mail today!!! :D:D:D

 

The work was done by Seattle Speedometer. I highly recommend contacting them if you're looking to have yours done.

 

Buz Ras is a pretty cool guy. I had the pleasure of personally meeting him and he did right in fixing up my speedometer as well. A huge Porsche fanatic! Glad you went with a reliable rebuilder, I just always thought he was in the local scene.

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10 hours ago, Beemon said:

 

Buz Ras is a pretty cool guy. I had the pleasure of personally meeting him and he did right in fixing up my speedometer as well. A huge Porsche fanatic! Glad you went with a reliable rebuilder, I just always thought he was in the local scene.

 

He was referred to me by the shop that rebuilt the Buick's radio. I probably wouldn't have found him otherwise. 

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Disaster struck today. The hood was being stored outside (as it has been for weeks) and the wind blew it over! The emblem broke against the concrete and left a nasty dent in the hood. :(

 

Does anyone have a spare 51' hood ornament lying around? 

20161008_185533.jpg

20161008_185458.jpg

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Which ornament? I have a nice front ornament for a '52, which I believe is the same.

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The engine has been delivered to the machine shop! The shop will be completely rebuilding the motor, mounting the rebuilt transmission, and painting both together. I've decided to go with the correct turquoise blue, even though my engine seems to have been painted pale green - more like a 54' Buick V8. I'm not sure why or when it was painted green. Was it common for 51's to have different engine colors from the factory?

 

It will probably be close to Thanksgiving, if not after, before it's all done. 

 

 

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Nice work, too bad about your hood (Darn). What machine shop did you use?

 

Also, weren't the Buick brakes great to begin with?  What prompted your decision to go with front disk?

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