Beemon Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Save the proportioning block and soak in cleaner. Measure the lines and buy pre-flared segments from the auto parts store. The pre-bent kits from suppliers never fit without tweaking, and being stainless, they don't crush as well as normal lines. It's not pretty, and it's not "correct", but unless you invest in a $200 flare kit (or know someone who does), you're going to have more heartache trying to use the cheap over the counter flare tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 So, no luck restoring the original lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 I wouldn't re-use them if they have rust on the inside of the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 They have rust everywhere! I'm going to use sulfuric acid on the insides and then pressure test them. Let's see how clean they come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 Those lines are not stainless steel and it is not advisable to reuse them. If you do please let me know when and where you will be driving so I can avoid you! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 18 hours ago, WhipperSnapper said: My stainless steel fuel and brake lines have seen better days, but I think that they're worth restoring. I've been playing around with different methods and think that I've settled on a strategy. I'll start on them tomorrow and we'll see how they turn out. Here's what they look like now. Have any of you attempted this before? No, and neither should anyone else. BTW, how did you get those lines off all attached like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 I've been working on my fuel lines for the last four hours and I'm pleased with the results. There is still some surface rust on the insides, but nothing that should prevent the lines from functioning as intended. I ran sulfuric acid through them, let sit, and then flushed with water until clear. They all hold pressure and have unimpeded flow when water is run through. I've got more work to do, but don't see any reason to scrap them. An inline fuel filter will still be required, but I was going to use one anyway. The back two brake lines are completely stopped up. I'll need to work out a solution or find replacements. More on that later. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) Wow, nice job! Wire wheel, brush, naval jelly??? Have you considered filling them with a solution of vinegar and salt to kill that rust. Then maybe baking soda and water as a neutralizing rinse? Cup cup of salt to a gallon of vinegar Edited September 30, 2016 by MrEarl Recipe (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 1 hour ago, MrEarl said: Wow, nice job! Wire wheel, brush, naval jelly??? Have you considered filling them with a solution of vinegar and salt to kill that rust. Then maybe baking soda and water as a neutralizing rinse? Cup cup of salt to a gallon of vinegar No, no, no....vinegar and salt will actually promote corrosion of even stainless steel! A phosphoric acid preparation like OSPHO would be more appropriate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) I've been thinking of different methods but all have their downsides. I'm leaning towards pumping a rust converter / inhibitor through the lines. Corroseal is what I used on the frame and it's thin enough to work. My feeling though is that it's really not necessary. The fuel lines are pretty thick and there is very little pitting. I don't think that the rust ran deep - just surface. The fuel system is not high pressure, and with a fuel filter before the carb, I don't see much of a problem. The brake lines are a different story... Edited September 30, 2016 by WhipperSnapper Typos (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 A few photos of the work in progress: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) Here's what I did: 1. Use garden hose and compressed air to ensure lines clear. 2. Use funnel and heavy rubber gloves. Pour sulfuric acid through the lines. Let sit 20 min. 3. Flush lines with hose, dry with compressed air. 4. Use brake parts cleaner to free stuck screw ends. 5. Use vice to hold lines. Clean with grinder wire wheel. Be sure to wear a leather apron and use eye protection! 6. Use black marker to mark problem areas (excessive pitting, holes, etc.) For later review / repair. Use the nastiest drain cleaner you can find. Sulfuric acid will be a prime ingredient. Harbor Freight is the place to buy your grinder, apron, gloves, and wire wheels. Cheap, cheap! Edited September 30, 2016 by WhipperSnapper (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 14 minutes ago, old-tank said: No, no, no....vinegar and salt will actually promote corrosion of even stainless steel! A phosphoric acid preparation like OSPHO would be more appropriate. OSPHO would work too. I realize the corrosive action of salt and vinegar, I use it to rustify roofing tin all the time. I'm not saying leave it in the tubes for days. Overnight would take care of the rust but would not have time to corrode the metal. Then like I said, neutralize it with sofa water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 26 minutes ago, WhipperSnapper said: I've been thinking of different methods but all have their downsides. I'm leaning towards pumping a rust converter / inhibitor through the lines. Corroseal is what I used on the frame and it's thin enough to work. My feeling though is that it's really not necessary. The fuel lines are pretty thick and there is very little pitting. I don't think that the rust ran deep - just surface. The fuel system is not high pressure, and with a fuel filter before the carb, I don't see much of a problem. The brake lines are a different story... Youre probably right, probably not necessary if they're not that corroded inside. re the brake lines being another story I agree too. May want to go new there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 I'll continue to play around with them and see what can be done. I hate replacing parts that can be saved. In other news, I've sent the shocks off to be rebuilt and it isn't going to be cheap. I went with Kanter in NJ and am looking at ~$1,200! The Dynaflow is also being rebuilt as I type this - cheaper than the shocks. I drop the engine off at the machine shop Saturday to be rebuilt. I decided not to tackle it myself due to space and the difficulty of moving the dern thing around. I've placed an order with Wilwood for the front disc brake conversion kit and have everything else needed to complete the frame, suspension, brakes, and fuel system. I'm just waiting on the shocks to come back before putting it all together. After the frame is back together, the engine and transmission will be painted and mounted to the frame. I'll start on the cab (which is currently sitting outside) after the drivetrain is complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Nice work on everything! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 My rebuilt gauges arrived in the mail today!!! The work was done by Seattle Speedometer. I highly recommend contacting them if you're looking to have yours done. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Beauties!!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 These gages and clock are so gorgeous that you could go Flav-a-flav style, put it on a chain and where it around your neck all by itself!!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Haha! This is probably the first time that Flavor Flav has been mentioned on any classic Buick forum. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 2 minutes ago, WhipperSnapper said: Haha! This is probably the first time that Flavor Flav has been mentioned on any classic Buick forum. Lol, first time for everything, right. For real though, you'll have to post some pictures of these items installed on your car. I will reference this thread when it's time for me to get mine restored. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Will do! I'm still a ways off from rebuilding the dash but it'll come. I have the "before" photos around here somewhere. I'll post them when I figure out what I've done with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 10 hours ago, WhipperSnapper said: Haha! This is probably the first time that Flavor Flav has been mentioned on any classic Buick forum. "Yeahhhhh Boyeeee" 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosage Chavis Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 8 hours ago, MrEarl said: "Yeahhhhh Boyeeee" See, this is how you know Mr. Lamar is cool! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 On 10/6/2016 at 10:20 AM, WhipperSnapper said: My rebuilt gauges arrived in the mail today!!! The work was done by Seattle Speedometer. I highly recommend contacting them if you're looking to have yours done. Buz Ras is a pretty cool guy. I had the pleasure of personally meeting him and he did right in fixing up my speedometer as well. A huge Porsche fanatic! Glad you went with a reliable rebuilder, I just always thought he was in the local scene. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Oh snap! Brakes are here!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 10 hours ago, Beemon said: Buz Ras is a pretty cool guy. I had the pleasure of personally meeting him and he did right in fixing up my speedometer as well. A huge Porsche fanatic! Glad you went with a reliable rebuilder, I just always thought he was in the local scene. He was referred to me by the shop that rebuilt the Buick's radio. I probably wouldn't have found him otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 She's ready for the machine shop. Drop off Monday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Disaster struck today. The hood was being stored outside (as it has been for weeks) and the wind blew it over! The emblem broke against the concrete and left a nasty dent in the hood. Does anyone have a spare 51' hood ornament lying around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retirednow Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Which ornament? I have a nice front ornament for a '52, which I believe is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 This guy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retirednow Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 (edited) Oh ok, I have the other one Edited October 8, 2016 by retirednow (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 The engine has been delivered to the machine shop! The shop will be completely rebuilding the motor, mounting the rebuilt transmission, and painting both together. I've decided to go with the correct turquoise blue, even though my engine seems to have been painted pale green - more like a 54' Buick V8. I'm not sure why or when it was painted green. Was it common for 51's to have different engine colors from the factory? It will probably be close to Thanksgiving, if not after, before it's all done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 My rebuilt shocks are back! Time to start getting the frame back together! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Nice work, too bad about your hood (Darn). What machine shop did you use? Also, weren't the Buick brakes great to begin with? What prompted your decision to go with front disk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 I'm using a machine shop in Acworth. I'll post their details if they do a good job. I'm expecting the engine to be finished around the end of November. I decided to convert the front brakes to disk for my own peace of mind. There really isn't any other reason. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 I've used Tommy Goza in Acworth several times. If that is your shop, you will do well. Love to see your car sometime, I'm down Chamblee way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 Anytime! Woodstock here. I'm hoping to have the old girl back on the road by next summer . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 (edited) I'm back! No, I haven't given up and no, my wife hasn't torched the Buick (yet)! It's been a minute since my last update, so there's progress to report. 🙂 Here's what's been done, since my last post: - The engine is back from the machine shop! - Transmission has been rebuilt and attached to the engine! - Rear differential has been completely rebuilt and mounted under the car. - Shocks were all rebuilt; one incorrectly. Oops. - The frame and most parts that connect to it are restored and (ever-so-slowly) being bolted on. The frame is coming together nicely but I hit a snag when I discovered one of the front shocks leaking. It's back at the rebuilder for repair. Once it comes back, the spring will be set and front wheels mounted! The engine and transmission will be installed shortly after. Modifications from original will include: - Wilwood front disc brakes - Electronic Fuel Injection (still working this out...) - Conversion to a 12v electrical system - Electronic Ignition - Electric windshield wiper motor - FM & AUX port on the factory radio (completed) If any of you have advice to offer on EFI, please reach out. I'm considering the FiTech Go Street 400 system... Edited June 6, 2019 by WhipperSnapper (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhipperSnapper Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 I finished the rear brakes today! Rear shocks and sway bar go on tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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