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alternator conversion


Rosiesdad
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Hi all,

I am installing a 6V alternator in my '50 Buick. The alternator came with a universal mounting bracket. I am not real happy with the way it appears to need to be bolted up. Has anyone tried this? The shock body is close, so bracket had to be rotated up to clear. will need a longer fan belt and tensioner arm...... I would like to bolt up to the block and forgo the old bracket entirely if possible. That will require modifying the mounting kit at least.

Thx

Phil

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That universal mount is a real contraption! Youll be better off constructing a custom mount, probably just a chunk of small channel iron and a couple of ears to screw the

alternator to.

I'm not that familiar with the '50's, but that generator looks like a 12 volt. I could be nuts

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That universal mount is a real contraption! Youll be better off constructing a custom mount, probably just a chunk of small channel iron and a couple of ears to screw the

alternator to.

I'm not that familiar with the '50's, but that generator looks like a 12 volt. I could be nuts

Nope it's all 6V.

p

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Looks like I am being advised to toss most the bracket and drill out the holes so I can mount it directly to the block. The last mount kit I had for a Volvo 122 ended up breaking all to pieces so I welded it up and it broke again. Im not a fan of these bolt up mounts. Maybe should have saved the $75 and put it toward the ridiculously expensive one!

Phil

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Well, It took about 8 tries but I got it in to my liking. The "Universal" mount kit usually means it doesn't fit anything. Installed as suggested had it out past the end of the original mounting so I tossed the end "Ears" on the kit, drilled and cut a bit and mounted the new kit base about 1" off the block. Not using the original mount to bolt up makes this rock steady AND I'm using the same fan belt!

In retrospect I could have used a $12.99 GM mount instead of the $75.00 kit. You need a bunch of 1/2" and 7/16" washers. I used about 6 between the block and mount. Just enough to clear the water pump. Also u will need two 7/16" x1.5" bolts, and drill bit. Sawsall with a metal cutting blade and a grinder came in handy. It's a tight squeeze with all the nuts and bolts but I fit it in. It would have been nice if the mount was slotted but it wasn't so measure carefully. Align the pullys.

I couldn't be more pleased with 7. volts at idle!!!! Lights work Radio works it's awesome! Power window solenoids YES! No more revvving the engine to put the top up!

Only drawback is that it is noisey. Really notice it at idle. People used to wonder if it is running. No more!

All this also explains some of the vapor lock problems I have been having. Electric pump works SO MUCH BETTER now.

I made a little extension for the tensioner to clear the alternator fan.

It came with the "DA" plug with the diode inline for the exciter circuit which I wired to the reverse light power supply under the steering column.

Now with all these hints this is about a 4hr job. Took me a couple days to figure it all out.

Highly recommended!

Phil

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Edited by Rosiesdad (see edit history)
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Just wonder why you put this "ugly" alternator on you beautiful Buick when you can have an alternator that "looks"original and without this brackets.Just put it in the original brackets.

http://www.qualitypower.co/item/Powermaster_82117_and_82057/292/c39

Leif in Sweden.

…… Well said Leif but great workmanship and perseverance. :)

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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